Rust and a dragster.


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By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
My truck has some major rust issues that are getting worse faster and faster. Every time I look at it I see a new crack or one that has become longer. It's something I can fix myself but I don't really have the room to do it right. It's work I don't really like to do - repair work and it will probably take 6 months to a year for me to do it in my spare time if I can manage to do it with the space I have and that's if I focus on that project. So 6 months to a year using my spare time to do something that I don't really like to do. It doesn't sound appealing. I could pay someone to do it, but I can also buy a rust free truck for the same price.

What it boils down to is that the floors, body supports, radiator support, and fenders need a lot of work. I really want a dragster so that I have something to have fun with that I don't really care if it breaks. Would it be safe to use the trucks body with a utilitarian patch job for a dragster? It would be relatively slow at first so I can learn to drive it but I'd be aiming for 8s or better somewhere down the road. I can do a quick, not-even-trying-to-look-stock patch job with no problem.

The plan then would be to buy another rust free swb uni like I have and swap the current driveline and much of the other stuff I've made to the new truck and build a new driveline for the dragster.
By Glen Henderson - 12 Years Ago
Go for it bro, you would not believe how much I had to fab and repair in the Falcon. Main thing is if the frame is solid. If you have a line on a rust free short wheelbase, I would do it.
By Hoosier Hurricane - 12 Years Ago
Charlie:

I don't want to discourage you, but let's be realistic.  It would take an enormous amount of power to put your truck into the eights, and you would be unable to do that with a Y.  Too much weight and wind resistance.  Look at what's running in the 8s with Y power, Ted, Bob, Randy, and maybe someday Jerry.  Tube chassis cars with minimal bodies, huge tires.  Your thoughts about having a real dragster are your best bet for that kind of performance.

By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
No leads yet but I know they're out there. A new toy probably won't happen this year but I do need to decide what I'm going to do.



What I need to do is replace the passenger side pan and mount since I already have those repro parts. Then tackle the torque box. I've seen a break down of the parts for the torque box. It's really not a complicated piece. It's just tricky to replace when you don't have room to remove the body. Maybe once those two areas are addressed, the deterioration in the other areas will slow dramatically. As it is, 3 of the four cab support points may well be considered as non existent. When that is addressed, there shouldn't be much stress on the spaces in between. Then maybe it won't seem as daunting. I also have a much better setup now than I did a few years ago when I did the driver side pan. i have more experience. I won't have to worry about rain. I won't have to be in the sun. I won't have roommates to complain about noise and since there is no hoa, the neighbors will have to deal with me working on my old truck if they don't like it.
By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
What about finding a good body and swapping your stuff to it? If you want to run 8's it would take a serious race car, superlight and purpose built. I think the Pinto is a good example. With all he has its still a long way to the 8's. Maybe Randy would sell you the rear engine rig but without changing the chassis it is only good for the 8's although the record is going lower. I think you could have just as much fun with a gasser type car or truck. If its fast you want talk to the guys that go fast. The cost per second shaved is pretty high. The idea of building a car strictly for drag is a good one. It is very difficult to build a good street car that is also fast! Chuck

PS: If thats what you want go for it! Your truck would be a great tow rig for a FED.

By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
Guys

I realize that 8s is not currently realistic with a Y in a truck. I know trucks have been as fast. Rumor has it that there will be new blocks soon and there will be plenty more years for development before I'd seriously consider it. These trucks aren't that heavy and when stripped down for racing with a turbo or two, I think it will be possible in the future. And frankly, if I really want to go faster and reach the limit of the available Y parts at the time, I'll use another motor. The point is that I aim for it to be fast eventually. Also, it's easy to say I want to run 8s but I may not even have the stomach for it. Rest assured, if I want to do something, I will do it.



You saw how fast I was running last year. If I choose to do this, it will probably start out in 14s and I'll work my way up (or down??).
By MoonShadow - 12 Years Ago
Not trying to stiffle you Charlie, I know you are the "git er done" kind of guy. Just relating some past experience. I think the main idea is not to try to build a street car that is drag fast or the other way around. It's so much simpler to seperate the two. I never planned to be really quick with my Vicky, just competitive. Go for it! Chuck
By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
If I choose to do this, I will be ultimately separating the two.



Re your question about swapping bodies, if I do that, then I have another body gathering dust or rust. I don't think the current body is bad enough to scrap. It looks pretty darn good on the outside and it's remarkably solid in other problem areas so I'd like to use it.
By Vic Correnti - 12 Years Ago
Charlie, get the weight to 2000 and a y with 550hp should do it. Drive it in northern Illinois for a winter and let the road salt do it's thing reducing the weight. And there is always nitrous to help out any deficiencies.
By speedpro56 - 12 Years Ago
Now,that ought to work CharlieBigGrin. Have you been practicing Vic??
By mctim64 - 12 Years Ago
I know it would cost north of a grand to ship but I can keep an eye out for a good truck for you in Calif.  We got Jake for $300. Rolleyes

For the record Elwood Will be in the 9s this year, 8s someday soon. Wink

By Vic Correnti - 12 Years Ago
It has been a warm winter here but no open drag strip to practice at.
By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
mctim64 (3/15/2012)
I know it would cost north of a grand to ship but I can keep an eye out for a goodtruck for you in Calif. We got Jake for $300. Rolleyes



For the record Elwood Will be in the 9s this year, 8s someday soon. Wink




If it's in as good condition as Jake and similar in price, I'd gladly pay $1000 to have it shipped. I could probably turn around and sell it for a profit over here. Rust is no fun for me. I didn't know what to look for when I bought the truck. Now that I'm wiser, no more rusty vehicles for me. There's the rust you see, and there is as much or more that you don't see.

I prefer one that came with a Y but fabbing a bracket for a 6 cyl truck is not a big deal - I've already done it once. A Mercury M100 would be cool.
By charliemccraney - 12 Years Ago
Here's an idea. It'll take care of most of my rust problems.



http://www.slick60s.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=26402
By mctim64 - 12 Years Ago
Nice!

546517_353376078061069_100001660381283_893493_321868068_n.jpg

By unibodyboy - 12 Years Ago
I've got two fiberglass US body source front ends Smile