What has been your experience with an aluminum flywheel?


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By 46yblock - 17 Years Ago
For those that have used or are currently using an aluminum flywheel, how did/does is it workout for street use?  Will the decreased stored energy give a jerky slowing down when letting off the throttle?  Is it more difficult getting under way from a stoplight?  More transmission wear?  Can it be used with a high rear gear? 
By Hoosier Hurricane - 17 Years Ago
46:

Your last sentence is the key.  Use a heavy wheel for smooth consistent starts from a stop.  Use the aluminum wheel for racing for faster acceleration.

John

By 46yblock - 17 Years Ago
Ok, so I will stop thinking about the aluminum jobs.  What about the billet steel wheel lightened 5 lbs?  Same issues?
By charliemccraney - 17 Years Ago
Go with the billet steel flywheel. Don't worry about lightening it. It's 33 or 34lbs which is fine for street use. I weighed it but didn't write it down. I like it. The one I removed from the engine was 29lbs and it had been cut a few times.
By Ted - 17 Years Ago
The rule of thumb for flywheel weight for a street driven vehicle is for the flywheel to be 1% of the vehicle weight;  ie. the vehicle weighs 3200 lbs, the flywheel weighs 32 lbs.

Most instances related back to me regarding aluminum flywheels on a Y for street use complained about having difficulty in getting the vehicle moving initially.  The flywheel by being too light does not have enough stored energy in which to help the engine keep the rpms up and subsequently the engine will want to pull down too easily upon engaging the clutch.  On the flip side, the circle trackers that used the aluminum flywheels loved them but they were not having to use the clutch to take off consistently.

By 46yblock - 17 Years Ago
Thanks to all for the replys and info.  The truck weighs 2750 lbs.  So a 5 lb lighter flywheel fits within the rule of thumb.  The 3.00 rearend may be helped  by a relatively low 1st when moving from a stoplight.