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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Guys, got a new starter for 56 sunliner. What's the trick for getting it in? I can't seem to get enough room to get the drive in the hole with enough clearance to move the starter into position. Any tips?
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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rgrove (5/28/2010)
Guys, got a new starter for 56 sunliner. What's the trick for getting it in? I can't seem to get enough room to get the drive in the hole with enough clearance to move the starter into position. Any tips?Ron, just keep on wriggling it, twisting, shaking, rotating, cursing it and it should go in!. regards bill.
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Been trying that for over an hour....I need another plan!
Ron
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By Rono - 14 Years Ago
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It's definately a pain. I have a '56 Customline with a power (rear) R&P set-up and Red's headers. Even with the smaller, mini high-torque starter, I have to disconnet the exhaust and move it or drop the R&P set-up. Where is your interference? Does the new starter have the correct drive gear? Can you compare it with the old starter drive? Rono.
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By PWH42 - 14 Years Ago
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Removing the two bolts that hold the drag link to the frame and dropping the tie rod down gives a lot more wiggle room.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 14 Years Ago
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Ron: Let me guess. You were playing with the starter before you installed it and got the drive gear into the "crank" position, and now it only ratchets one way and won't retract. That restricts the room you have to work with. When I run into that, I hold the starter teeth against my spinning wire brush on the bench grinder so that it ratchets. If the brush is large enough and fast enough, the starter drive will retract and help tremendously when you install the starter.
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By Bob's 55 - 14 Years Ago
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John, that's Too Frickin' Funny. But so true. I have done that myself, years ago. Hahaa... Ron, I'm not laughing at you, I'm laughing at the memories that John brought back, Me and a couple of friends taking turns under the car trying to get that starter back in. "What the... it came out OK!! Why won't it go back in!!!"
Go have a Beer and do what John suggested in the Morning.
Wear your face shield and goggles when using the wire wheel.
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Thanks guys. And come on John, give me a little credit! ha ha ha.. I learned about the bendix years ago when I first put it together. I used a model airplane starter (another one fo my stupid hobbies) to get it to retract... I eventually got the starter in. I still dont know how; couldnt do it again if i had to. Got 2 of the 3 bolts in. I tried the stud trick for the upper one; there wanst enough room to get the starter ear over the end of the stud due to block interference. I screwed the stud in as far as i could and still have enough thread for the nut, but still no luck. After overr an hour trying to get the top bolt in, im done. It will be 2 bolts until i can get it to my buddies shop with a lift - maybe that will help..... Tomorrow will be the solenoid and ign switch.....and power steering hoses... Thanks everybody!! I really appreciate it!
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By aussiebill - 14 Years Ago
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There ron, i told you the cursing would work!
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 14 Years Ago
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Ron: Sorry about not giving you credit for knowing about the bendix. How do you suppose I knew about that problem? Glad you got the starter in finally.
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Hey john, no worries! Its funny because even in the shop manual there is a big warning aboutt the bendix locking, and they pretty much say you are sol if the pins drop!
So starter and new solenoid are in. Starter sounds a little rough due to poor alignment, presumably due to 2 bolts..tried loosening and readjusting a few times with limited success...
On other question though....while cranking, I disconnected the coil lead from solenoid, and it still started. Should that be, or is it further evidence of a bad ign sw?
Thanks to all!
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By Bob's 55 - 14 Years Ago
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rgrove (5/29/2010)
On other question though....while cranking, I disconnected the coil lead from solenoid, and it still started. Should that be, or is it further evidence of a bad ign sw?
Ron, No it should not have started. I'd say something is connected incorrect or ignition switch.
I was going to ask if you had a "one wire" alternator and to check for feed back, but then it would not have shut off. That happened to me, what fun... Finally pulled the fuse to the fuel pump and let it run out of gas.
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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ok, false alarm. I tried it a few more times, and its lighting off as the key goes to the "on' position and the engine is still spinning down after the starter is shut off. Ignition isnt hitting while the key is in the crank position and the coil wire is disconnected from solenoid....
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By PF Arcand - 14 Years Ago
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Ron: I don't necessarily have a solution to installing the starter, but the noise mentioned reminds me of something Ted has posted on. Are you by chance using a later F.E. (352, 361, 390) starter? The early ones up to 1964 will fit, but '65 & later have a different Bendix drive setup which does not work properly with the "Y" flywheel. Just asking?
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By junkyardjeff - 14 Years Ago
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I dont remember having too much problems removing the starter on my 55 when it still had the 272,since it was a sunliner I had to remove the complete trans when I resealed it but thats been over 15 years ago and plenty of beers since then so I might be forgetting something.
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By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
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Ok guys, figured Id give an update. Initially I figured id take the care to my buddies shop for the top bolt, but at about 3 am I had another idea. Here is what I did (in hopes it can help someone else in the future) The problem was getting the ear on the starter to align with the hole in the trans...it was just barely off, so the bolt just couldnt get started. So I bought a 5/16-18 threaded rod, and cut it to about 9", and double nutted the end to create a way to turn it. Then I loosened the 2 bolts on the starter so the starter could dlide back about 3/4" or so, and fished the 9" long threaded rod over the top of the starter, and through the ear on the starter. There was enough play with the lower bolts loose to move the starter around to get the threaded rod started in the upper hole, and I screwed it in using the jammed nuts on the end. The rod now acted as a guide pin of sorts. I thightened up the the other 2 bolts, unscrewed the threaded rod, and now the upper bolt started right in. also, it became easier to use a 1/4" drive ratchet & extension, as it gave a little more room to wiggle around the block... With the 3rd bolt in, (and tightened first), starter now works/sounds just fine! Thanks for all of the help guys; I truly appreciate it. hopefully this can help someone else in the future!
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By Phordric - 14 Years Ago
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I know this is a really late addition to this question,but just felt I had to add my solution as I too spent way too much time unsuccessfully trying to get the bolts back in and tightened.I cut a hole big enough to get my hands in the footwell from the interior of the passenger side to access the back side of the starter.To seal and waterproof the hole I cut a larger piece of sheetmetal and drilled holes all the way around the perimeter and used the new piece as a template to drill matching holes around the perimeter of the hole in the footwell.I don't know what the technical name for them is but I went to ACE hardware and got nuts attached to a gripping clip that slip over the holes to hold the nut in place.I then put sealant between the new cover and base and put the short machine screws in before the sealant set up.Now the next time,and we all know there will be a next time,the starter needs replacing it should be a piece of cake. Phordric
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