Installing Flex-Plate


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By San Diego Ron - 14 Years Ago
My updated flex plate from Tee-Bird Products came and want to make sure it is installed correctly...I have the smooth side facing the converter with the bent over tabs facing the engine. I was about to make so many mistakes in the past and straightened out by the experts here that I just want to double check.

 Thought there was a mistake because there were two reinforcement plates in package until realized the bolts were bottoming out against the block with using only one. (Funny that the holes will only align up one way)

 Hope this is correct...3/4" space to block

 Converter set back in 3/4" and mounts at four corners to flex plate...stop me now if I am wrong!

 This is the old Bad Boy that was making all the racket with the loose riveted mounting tabs...nice to get rid of it if just for the weight of the thing. Anyone need a boat anchor?

By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
Those old style flex plates have caused a lot of needless repairs and even the junking of a lot of Y-Blocks with Ford O's.

Just curious but I noticed the new plate appears belly out and the old one belly in. Is that the way it's supposed to go? I think it might be reversed. The center ring is to equalize bolt pressure and prevents cracks in the flex plate.

The transmission looks like it is all the way in. You should fell it drop in (back) twice as you rotate it to get it back that far. Their are two tangs on the front shaft that engage.

Notice the two drain plugs on your converter. Those are the ones that must fit into the large holes on the flex plate. I usually set the flex plate with the holes vertically aligned and converter the same to keep me from getting dumb.

You can pour a couple of quarts of ATF into the snout of the converter prior to fitting it to the transmission. This prevents a dry start up. Be ready to add a bunch of ATF after you get it running. If you drained the transmission too its something like 6 to 8 quarts of the stuff.

Asking questions when you are not sure is never dumb or a pain. It's the only way to learn. Believe me we have all made plenty of mistakes (oversights for the more brainy ones). Let us know how the project comes out. Chuck in NH

By oldcarmark - 14 Years Ago
Just looking at the pic.I think he has it correct the way it is,If you reverse it the bolts for the torque converter wont reach the flex plate.They are not that long.There is also a an area of the covertor  that wll sit in the dish area.The convertor is not flat on the engine side.
By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
I think the picture of the old flex plate threw me. I though it was curved in not out. It's a little deceptive (or I'm a little old). Chuck in NH
By San Diego Ron - 14 Years Ago
Sent note off to T-B Products and they replied that the curved edges goes toward engine...I'm taking that they are talking about the eight folded edges on each side of the four mounting points and with the dished side facing converter...the way I have it in picture, I hope, I hope! If the converter is indeed positioned correctly in bell housing, that gives me the 3/4" space to be able to bolt block to bell.
By MoonShadow - 14 Years Ago
Looking at the pictures again It seems I was wrong. If the belly on the new one is positioned the same as the old its probably correct. The belly is necessary to fit snug to the converter. Sorry if I caused any confusion. Chuck in NH
By Bob's 55 - 14 Years Ago
I believe that because of the spacing of the bolts on the crank flange/flex plate that it will only go on one way... If you put it on wrong, all the bolt holes will not line up.
By San Diego Ron - 14 Years Ago
Just double checked with TB Prod. and I do have it on the right way. It took me few tries to figure out the bolt pattern on hub only lets plate go on in one position. Not going to put engine in car today...wife wants to go to San Diego Zoo
By Bob's 55 - 14 Years Ago
Yuummm, Isn't that what I said...Hehe
By marvh - 14 Years Ago
It is very important you check for clearance to the block on the flywheel bolts when using the 57 style replacement flexplate.



The 55/56 bolts used with your original flex-plate are 7/16"-20x3/4" and the later flex-plate your are now using the bolts are 7/16"-20x11/16

The difference is only 1/16", however, could be disastrous if a bolt should strike the block especially if you have any crankshaft end play.



marv
By rgrove - 14 Years Ago
San Diego Ron (4/22/2010)

 This is the old Bad Boy that was making all the racket with the loose riveted mounting tabs...nice to get rid of it if just for the weight of the thing. Anyone need a boat anchor?

I keep mine by the workbench as a reminder to not cheap out on stupid stuff again!  When we restored our car (frame off) I didnt want to spend the $60 for a new flexplate - I figured that "somehow" the rapping sound would be taken care of on the 2nd engine rebuild - WRONG!  Of course, by then the car was all back together, and since I dont have a lift, it wound up costing me a couple hundred bucks to have a local restoration shop swap it out for me.  STUPID on my part!  Live and learn I guess!

Im really glad this is working out for you!  You will be amazed at how much better it sounds when it doesnt sound like its going to blow a rod out the side at idle!