|
By DANIEL TINDER - 16 Years Ago
|
After rereading some old posts, I noticed an inconsistency that should likely be cleared up.
John Mummert had stated that he torqued Best head gaskets 3-5 times during assembly to fully compress the fire ring. Yet, many of the posts from the same thread emphasized that the bolts should never be disturbed once fully torqued. I'm left a bit puzzled.
Also, went through ALL the posts re: pros/cons of steam holes. I had finally decided to drill the new block to match my heads, but wonder now if that would be wise, since it likely should have been done before it was decked? If done carefully using a sharp bit and chamfered lightly, would this still disturb the surface enough for concern (cracking potential notwithstanding)?
|
|
By 46yblock - 16 Years Ago
|
|
DANIEL TINDER (12/11/2009)
After rereading some old posts, I noticed an inconsistency that should likely be cleared up.
John Mummert had stated that he torqued Best head gaskets 3-5 times during assembly to fully compress the fire ring. Yet, many of the posts from the same thread emphasized that the bolts should never be disturbed once fully torqued. I'm left a bit puzzled.
Also, went through ALL the posts re: pros/cons of steam holes. I had finally decided to drill the new block to match my heads, but wonder now if that would be wise, since it likely should have been done before it was decked? If done carefully using a sharp bit and chamfered lightly, would this still disturb the surface enough for concern (cracking potential notwithstanding)?My current 292, 9.2 cr, seeped coolant at the sides of the heads soon after first startup. Heads and deck were surfaced. The block did have the center holes, but not the 113s. Best gaskets had the holes. Heads had been torqued to I think 70 lbs, as I was worried about a repaired crack that could have coolant into the valley. Torqued and retorqued the heads 3 times to 70 before startup. Pitched the issue here. Heads have studs. Decided to retorque the heads to 80. I wondered if the block should have been drained of coolant, stud nuts taken off and relubricated, but didnt do any of that. Just retorqed to 80. Still have a very slight dribble. Maybe the story is helpful.
|
|
By crenwelge - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Just about all I know about Y-blocks is what I learned from mechanics during the 50's or by doing it wrong the first time and figuring out how to fix it. All of the old timers always told me now to disturb Y-block head bolts after it had been run. There must have been a reason for this.
|
|
By lovefordgalaxie - 16 Years Ago
|
This is odd. This thing about the small holes. I live in Brasil, it's hot here, not Ft.Lauderdale in July hot (I've being there) but hot enough.
I run my '74 Galaxie every day, (yes, she came from Ford with an Y) and almost every time with the A/C on.
The block is brazilian, so I can't say the casting numbers match with a US block, but there are no holes.
US parts fit perfect, like my Iskenderian cam, clevite pistons, Cloyes timing chain, etc, so the engine is very close. I've even insinstalledspin on oil filter with a US imported kit.
The engine was original until last october, when I decided to rebuild, with about 590.000 Kms on the clock. She was burning some oil, and the cam was doing a weird noise with the engine cold.
With the engine oppenopenedund only Ford original parts, the bearings were STD, and the pistons had "Ford" and "made in Brazil" inside, being STD too. I can take a picture of one if you guys got curious to see an South American piston. The fact is: The engine don't have the holes, the heads don't have the holes, and the two central exhaust valves were OK. My new gaskets, from Fell Pro have the two tiny holes, but I didn't dril drill
I think that if this holes were REALLY necesanecessaryengine shouldn't have lasted since 1974.
Before the rebuild, the engine always ran at 180~190ºF. After, the temp is the same, only on the first 150 to 200 Kms she ran a tiny bit over 190, but now is normal again. I think that's because all parts were new and tight, since it's normal now.
Sorry for the long post, but I got scared about the subject.
Are the steam holes really necessary?
I readed allreadds about them, but for real, I can't decide.
|
|
By PF Arcand - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Tulio: Welcome to the site. The steam or coolant holes are apparently controversial, so I won't be judgmental on them. However, I think John Mummert may have hit the nail on the head when he suggested "stuck heat risers" were likely the main source of head cracking problems. Exhaust heat risers have always been a source of problems and later cars have gone to other methods to pre heat on cold start up..
|
|
By 46yblock - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Tulio, if you dont have the holes, dont worry about it. I would prefer a block, heads and gasket without them personally. It appears the only gaskets that dont have them are NOS.
|
|
By lovefordgalaxie - 16 Years Ago
|
Yes, I suspected this. I have an old FoMoCo gasket set (USA) that I didn't use just because it's kind of a colection iten for me (how weird is that?), and the head gaskets miss the holes.
I'm learning how to work on engines with Maycon, my mechanic, and with that in mind I work with him about a week or so every month. I saw him doing my engine, and I'm positive about the absence of the holes.
Maycon has some Y's in his past, including a turbocharged one, and he told me it was not necessary to drill the holes.
He also says not to disturb the head bolts once the engine is run, just like Kenneth says, and Kenneth is around this engines since the 50's.
I have great respect for the experience guys like Kenneth have, real deal experience, not from reading some manual, and when Maycon said the same thing he said, I got more confident.
|
|
By 46yblock - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Wish I had some of that real deal experience. Guess all this activity the past 8 years is just play.
|
|
By lovefordgalaxie - 16 Years Ago
|
|
Me too. The bad side is that it takes a lifetime to get.
|
|
By shakey pete - 16 Years Ago
|
even before I became a mechanic an old timer told me when you retorgue heads start from the center and in a clock wise direction work in a circle to the out side away from the center in 15 lbs per torgue up to the correct torgue I have worked on many y blks on lumber ross carriers to ford cars and never ever had any problems and my 54 mercury 2 dr. ht is no different, just torgue through the sequence then recheck at the max,s torgue from center out wards , and clean is the answer the trick is do it right the first time check and re check shakey Pete and Merry Xmas to all
|
|