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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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Okay, so I've been told that to break in the motor I should use Rotella T, getting rid of the need for additives. This I understand, but should I use this Diesel oil in my car ALL THE TIME? Or is there another oil I should probably go with. If you are gonna say use regular and add additives, I think it would be the same as the Rotella T sooooo? I'm more worried about, the detergents clogging the passages up like we all know the Y has probs with....
So what's everyone's take on what motor oil to use on a DAILY DRIVER???
BTW, just spent $2400 on a complete rebuild, has the Clay Smith street grind cam...Reaaalllllll mild. Mummert Sells it. .30 over and gonna run a 450 CFM Holley, I think.
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By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
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Opinions are mixed about diesel oils.
I use Valvoline VR1 20/50 in my daily driver. I used regular Valvoline 20/50 in the previous build of the engine. No signs of abnormal wear on the cam or lifters after 11000 miles. Some oils are labeled as "for older engine" or something similar. They should work as well.
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By crenwelge - 16 Years Ago
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You will get all sorts of opinions. I grew up in a family selling lubricants and I still do. Diesel oils are good, but they are designed to hold Diesel soot in suspension. All current production heavy duty engines have roller cam followers and scuffing is not a problem. I prefer an oil that is designed for a gasoline engine. Zinc was patented as an oil additive around WWII. My father sold a lot of oil because of the zinc additive. Modern oils have very little zinc to meet emissions standards. I use an oil designed for gasoline engines and add ZDDP. I am not a distributor for ZDDP and I am not trying to drum up business for them. I do however buy large enough quantities to get a decent deal and then sell some at retail. I would suggest going to the ZDDP website and arrive at your own opinion. ZDDP can be bought on the internet including eBay.
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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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I guess i'll have to do more looking into..lol
If it helps anyone, i live in FL. So i'm not worried about cold start-ups 11 months out of the year
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By paul2748 - 16 Years Ago
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Any 20-50 oil has the required amount of ZDDP. The current diesel oils have the required amount, even with the nre formulation. There is a lot of the old formulation around (Rotella T has the new formulation but some of the lesser known brands still have the old formulation) from my experiences at different auto parts stores. No one I have heard has said long term use of the diesel oil is bad.
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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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I also read somewhere that the Rotella T now has only 1200 as opposed to 1400 of that stuff ya need for the flat tappets
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By 46yblock - 16 Years Ago
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I use Valvoline VR-1. It has all the ZDDP you need without additives, and is available in most any viscosity you like.
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By 56fairlanepost - 16 Years Ago
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horsepower tv on spike tv had some good info on break-in oils while doing a pull on the dyno with a vintage olds engine done over by dr. olds himself and recommended using rotella t as the first break-in oil, but only through the first couple of pulls.they then changed it out to a conventional gas motor oil and added an additive of dr. olds recommendation stating it was not a good idea to run rotella t for extended periods of time.now i know this subject has been beat to death but the oil companys realize the is a demand for an oil with high concentrates of zddp and phosphorous.my understnding is most oils of 20/50 grade have enough to protect a flat tappet cam and there are some oils made specifically for older engines one being castrol syntec 20w-50 identified by "recommended for classic cars".hope this helps.jim
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By Apache - 16 Years Ago
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I'm thinking i'm going to use the Rotella-T as the break in oil....Then swap over to the valvoline VR1 20-50, as long as my searching shows it has what I need....
I was told that if I go VR1 I have to look for the label that says "NOT FOR STREET USE"...??????
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By mctim64 - 16 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (5/14/2009)
Opinions are mixed about diesel oils.
I use Valvoline VR1 20/50 in my daily driver. I used regular Valvoline 20/50 in the previous build of the engine. No signs of abnormal wear on the cam or lifters after 11000 miles. Some oils are labeled as "for older engine" or something similar. They should work as well.I agree with Charlie or use regular 30w oil with the addative. 'nough said.
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By Ted - 16 Years Ago
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And here’s info that’s been touched on in the recent past. Any new oil with an API classification of SM and with 40W or more in its viscosity rating will have the necessary amount of zinc/phosphorus content to work with the flat tappet camshafts in the older engines including the Y’s. It’s only the SL or SM oils with 30W or less on their labels that have the reduced amounts of ZDDP. So stick with your favorite brand and just pay attention to the viscosity rating. I’ll add (and this is just my opinion) that additives and special oils are over-rated for the majority of street driven vehicles if the correct oil for the application is selected to begin with. Here is a past thread on the subject. Performing a search on this site using zinc or zddp will also bring up several more. http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic9285-3-1.aspx
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By DANIEL TINDER - 16 Years Ago
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Again, the apparent problem with long term exclusive use of diesel oil is: the aggressive detergent action strips away the built-up layer of protective zinc. I would think that using it (especially the older, higher zinc Rotella formula) in a very dirty engine would be a good thing, if the sludge is kept in suspension? Alternating with a high-zinc gasoline racing oil should renew the protective layer?
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By paul2748 - 16 Years Ago
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Apache (5/14/2009)
I also read somewhere that the Rotella T now has only 1200 as opposed to 1400 of that stuff ya need for the flat tappets
Where does the 1400 come from? Back in the 50 and 60's most oils had less than 1000
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By Larry D - 16 Years Ago
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A few weeks ago I ran a 390 FE on the dyno and did the break-in with Castrol GTX 5W30 and 1 bottle of Comp Cams Break-In Lube. It's running a fairly aggressive flat tappet cam with 427 low riser valve springs. No problems with the brake in and once I get the engine in the car it'll get Castrol GTX 20W50 and another bottle of the Comp Cams Break-In Lube. Then just 20X50 Castrol GTX. It's really the break-in where you need the added zinc. Leave the Diesel oil to the truckers, it has too much of a detergent package for a gasoline engine.. If you don't like Castrol oil Mobil 1 High-Mileage 10W40 has 1000 ppm of ZDDP in it. For that matter anything with a High-Mileage label is made for older engines and will have enough of the anti-scuff ingredients in it to to keep a flat-tappet engine alive on the street. For racing, use an oil formulated for racing, but don't use racing oil for the street. As Ted and others have said, anything with a rating above 40 is OK, just avoid oils that have a label stating greater fuel economy and less friction, they're for the newer roller-cam engines.
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By ejstith - 16 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (5/14/2009)
Opinions are mixed about diesel oils.
I use Valvoline VR1 20/50 in my daily driver. I used regular Valvoline 20/50 in the previous build of the engine. No signs of abnormal wear on the cam or lifters after 11000 miles. Some oils are labeled as "for older engine" or something similar. They should work as well.
Me too. The Valvoline guy told me it was fine. It says right on the bottle it is for flat tappet motors.
All of this talk about break in oils etc, back in the day I rebuilt a lot of motors and I never used any special anything, there was no special break in stuff. I put the motor together with STP drippin' off of everything and started the engine with non-detergent oil. The first oil change I changed to detergent oil. I never had a problem then and wouldn't expect to have one now.
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By simplyconnected - 16 Years Ago
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Ford engine plants don't use "break-in" oil, either. It's regular multi-viscosity oil with a dye that shows up under black light (for oil leak detection). The difference is, production engines are run soon after they are assembled (cold test, then hot test). Ours engines are rarely run until they are in the car. For "break-in" oil, I mix red STP with a little 10W-30. It hangs on and has no problem mixing with the real oil as it washes away under normal running.
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