|
By fast freddy - Last Month
|
|
on a 272 can the valley pan go on before heads , 1 head is already on thanks Fred
|
|
By 55blacktie - Last Month
|
Yes.
Some of us have encountered difficulty removing or installing the valley pan with both heads installed. When I removed the original valley pan with the heads installed on the 292 in my 55 Tbird, I slightly bent the edge of the pan. I was able to straighten it. I later gave it to a friend in need of one because I had purchased an ACE cast-aluminum valley pan. The Ace pan is notched to allow for easier removal and installation with the heads installed. I'm hoping that it will seal better as well. In the meantime, Daniel Jessup (hotrodreverend.com) is working with Genuine Gaskets Tennessee to produce Y-block silicone valve cover and valley pan gaskets, in addition to their existing Y-block silicone oil-pan gasket. They also have a silicone gasket for the C4 transmission pan for those of you, like me, who are replacing the Loadomatic with a C4.
|
|
By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
|
To add to 55blacktie's post, I too have had great difficulty installing my valley pan with heads installed. This '64 292 block had .023" removed from the decks and an additional .010" from small letter G heads. I didn't have difficulty installing the valley cover until after the above machine work was done. I believe bringing the heads down and closer together due to removing metal from the decks and heads is what was responsible for the difficulty. It took almost magic to discover the right combination of movements and angles to get the valley cover in place undistorted.
|
|
By fast freddy - Last Month
|
|
thanks black tie and supercharged ... Thats what it appeared to me , I have one head off so the valley pan next thanks Fred
|
|
By 55blacktie - Last Month
|
FORD DEARBORN (2/28/2026)
To add to 55blacktie's post, I too have had great difficulty installing my valley pan with heads installed. This '64 292 block had .023" removed from the decks and an additional .010" from small letter G heads. I didn't have difficulty installing the valley cover until after the above machine work was done. I believe bringing the heads down and closer together due to removing metal from the decks and heads is what was responsible for the difficulty. It took almost magic to discover the right combination of movements and angles to get the valley cover in place undistorted. Thanks, FD, I hadn't considered this. My G heads have been milled .013 and the block will be zero-decked. Hopefully, the notches in the ACE valley pan will have no problem clearing the heads. Fortunately, I'll have the option of installing it before or after the heads while assembling the engine.
|
|
By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
|
|
Maybe it would be a good idea during assembly to try installing the valley cover with the heads and gaskets in place with out torquing the heads. I'm thinking of a time when the valley cover may need to be removed some day. If it can't be installed with the heads in place, a little tweaking with a Dremmel tool might do the trick. Could save a lot of grief in the future.
|
|
By fast freddy - Last Month
|
|
just a couple more questions guys . In the service manual it says apply sealer to both sides of head gasket , pretty sure you dont use any sealant on new type fel pro head gaskets , and are there any intake or head bolts that go into water jackets and require sealant , I dont think so but wanted to ask thanks Fred
|
|
By 55blacktie - Last Week
|
|
No sealant is required on composite gaskets or intake or head bolts, but use a bit of oil on the threads and underneath the bolt heads.
|
|
By fast freddy - 11 days ago
|
|
thanks blacktie Fred
|
|
By fast freddy - 11 days ago
|
|
any tricks or tips to get that heavey head up under the hood and in place Do you guys usually put the gasket on the head or the block ? would a light spray adhesive help or would that screw things up ? Fred
|
|
By Ted - 10 days ago
|
|
fast freddy (3/2/2026)
Any tricks or tips to get that heavy head up under the hood and in place? Do you guys usually put the gasket on the head or the block? Would a light spray of adhesive help or would that screw things up? Fred
There are dowels on the block surface which will hold the head gasket in place on the block. If your block does not have the dowels, then they need to be replaced. There's always the chance that one or more of the dowels are in the heads and if they are, they need to be moved back to the block.
Also be aware that starting in 1957, Ford used two different length head bolts on the top row. The outer two bolts are approximately ¼”-3/8” longer than the inner three bolts on the top row. If installing the longer bolts in the inner positions, then the likelihood of the gasket not sealing is very high.
The instructions for the blue Perma-Torque Fel-Pro head gaskets for the Ford Y are very specific in not using any gasket sealer on them. Even when installed as per the instructions, there has been a documented history of that particular gasket leaking coolant at the lower edges of the cylinder heads in any kind of performance application. That’s a result of there being too much material at the intake side of the head gasket around the pushrod holes which prevents the gasket from being sufficiently clamped around the lower part of the gasket.
|
|
By fast freddy - 10 days ago
|
|
Thanks Ted I think one of my dowels is still in the head I thought maybe they used one in head and one in block but it stands to reason for installing that they would go in the block thanks again Fred
|
|
By 55blacktie - 10 days ago
|
fast freddy (3/2/2026)
any tricks or tips to get that heavey head up under the hood and in place Do you guys usually put the gasket on the head or the block ? would a light spray adhesive help or would that screw things up ? Fred
Spend some time at the gym (just kidding). Yes, the heads are heavy. I'm not a big guy, and I'm 71 years old. However, I have removed a head from my 55 Tbird while the engine was still in the car. I seem to recall using a step stool to make it easier to reach into the engine compartment. Also, with many of the engine compartment components removed, I could actually stand up inside the engine compartment. (I'm 5' 8", 150). If you can get in there, remove the rocker assemblies, remove the head bolts, and lift up on the head. You might need to tap the heads loose with a rubber mallet or insert something to use as leverage in the intake or exhaust ports to separate the heads from the block. Have someone standing next to the car to whom you can hand off each head once it's removed. Cover the fenders to protect them.
You're doing the right thing by thinking everything out and asking questions before the work begins. Hopefully, you won't have to ask yourself, "What do I do now" while you're in the middle of the job.
|
|
By Deyomatic - 10 days ago
|
|
I can attest that my 292 has the blue Fel-Pro head gasket and a slight leak along the passenger side. A couple of years ago I gooped it up with some kind of marine RTV and painted and it has held OK...but they say that Best brand gaskets are the way to go. It took some hunting but I found some...haven't gotten around to changing them.
|
|
By fast freddy - 9 days ago
|
|
thanks for your info and encouragement , got my son to come over after work hes 6'2 and 230 # Im 76 and got it out but thought I might bugger the gasket trying myself Thanks again Fred
|
|
By oldcarmark - 2 days ago
|
|
My Date Code Sept. 1956 292 has the 3 different Length Head Bolts. I found an alternative Source for replacement Head Bolts. Both different Sets. 3 Bolt Length and 2 Bolt Length. Headbolts.com. Grade 8 Bolts and hardened Washers.
|
|
By 55blacktie - 2 days ago
|
|
Cost, in stock, manufacturer?
|