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By Brent - Last Month
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As you requested 55blacktie.
I love this setup, its snappy off the line, 0-80 in short order, 20 in vacuum, idles very smooth at 800 rpm and sounds great.
Air Cleaner: X-Stream Airflow, capable of supplying 680 cfm: 327 ci, 6000 rpm, no boost = max draw – 568 cfm (cut down the base to fit under the hood.)
Brawler Street Series, 600 cfm, Mechanical Secondary, Electric Choke (Ted has proven that a vacuum secondary can be a better choice.)
Blue Thunder intake, plenum dimpled
Carter Street Super Mechanical Fuel Pump (FE pumps fit.) RobbMc offers high performance options.
FBO distributor, 4secondsflat is awesome.
Wagner PCV valve (a noticeable improvement off the line.)
Valve cover breathers
FPA headers 2 ½”
Porter mufflers 2 ½” in and out
14° initial timing at idle with no vacuum
Full (not timed) manifold vacuum adds 16° at 16” = 30° at idle
at 3400 rpm 22° = 36° all in
Approximate weight of vehicle 2900 lbs
Compression ratio if over 9:1 N/A
Trans Type Auto w/ 2000 rpm stall
Rear End gear 3.31:1
Cam duration at 50 if over 208 218
Aluminum or iron heads 113s mild porting
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Thanks, again, Brent. I sent a PM to you, fearing that it might bore other forum members if I posted it.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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"I sent a PM to you, fearing that it might bore other forum members if I posted it."
Don't let that worry you. I too would like details of the build also.
If it bores others, they can click out.
1) Mechanical fuel pump or electric
2) TRANS type
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Carter M6905 mechanical pump made in USA. More than likely will also have an electric pump (Carter P4070) for starting. C5 transmission/w C4 2000 stall converter, C4 valve body, H servo, Green Stripe vacuum modulator, Dynamic Racing Transmission wide-ratio gear set (2.90; 1.60; 1:1), and modified governor secondary valve that will allow 5600 rpm upshifts in Drive; downshifts not affected. Flat-O Products adapter kit.
Brent, although I sent PM last night, there is no record of it in my Sent Items.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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THANX! for the build info ...
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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I would like to retain the original 55 Tbird shifter, but there seems to be no way to use it with the C4/C5 and be able to manually shift into and out of Low. Someone suggested using a Mustang C4 shifter, but I don't like the T-handle. I'll probably use a Lokar shifter, but it involves modifying/fabricating a shifter plate for the transmission tunnel for a floor-mount shifter. Also, Lokar says that the C4 combination neutral-backup switch can't be used with the Lokar shifter. The Lokar comes with a neutral switch but no backup-light switch. Although my 55 doesn't have backup lights, the wiring is there; I might want to add them in the future. Parking lots scare me.
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By FORD DEARBORN - Last Month
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55blacktie, this may be irrelevant to why you may not be able to use your original 55 shifter but if it's because you need 6 positions/detents when there are only 5, maybe this will work for you. - Many years ago when installing a Cruise-O-Matic in my '57 Ford I drilled an extra 3 holes is the shift lever on the transmission and used one of those drilled holes to gain more throw for the "green dot." In this case, it worked very good in that neutral, reverse and park were where they shouold be on the shifter. Thanks for the above information....
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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I've seen numerous C4/AOD conversions, even with the other guy's engine & transmission, and they retained the 55-57 Tbird shifter, but I have found nothing about being able to manually shift in and out of Low with any conversion. Most have no problem with that because the transmissions will automatically shift through all the gears, including Low, unlike the Fordomatic, but I want the C4 to fully work in both modes.
Thanks for your reply.
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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Most of the C4 conversions, mine included, have not been able to use manual low although second is manually available. I had a friend that was able to do so by fine tuning the shifter, but he had problems with it staying in park. I believe he reset it so park was ok, but lost manual low. Since I don't go racing, it is not a problem and I still can downshift into second for the long downhills to help braking.. I haven't had any experience with an AOD
I am sure it can be done, but, but I don't think it can be done with a completely stock shifter. Some mods most likely are required.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Paul, that pretty much goes along with everything else I've read. My OEM 55 shifter is in great shape; rather than making any permanent modifications to it, I would rather use the Lokar shifter. I've seen some C4 conversions that used the Mustang shifter, but I don't like the T-handle. I will either have to modify the shifter plate that bolts to the tunnel or have one made. I won't modify it until I have another in hand.
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By miker - Last Month
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55blacktie, here a couple thoughts. I’m sure all will involve some fabrication. But I’ve done 350 and 400 turbos and powerglides to 700r4’s and 2004R’ so I know the problem.
Maybe these Mustang guys have something that will help, I have no clue what the various Mustangs used.
https://calponycars.com/products/1965-1973-ford-mustang-automatic-overdrive-aod-shift-linkage-kit?srsltid=AfmBOopFRr8jCRY9DQ3Lny8s5oLwICNijNR2eqyvarqK4BbtSb-bMG1x
I’ve also used these guys, and the push button shifter might be close enough in looks to hide the change.
https://shiftworks.com/collections/shifters/products/button-top-shifter-for-1968-82-corvette
None of it will be easy, and maybe not cheap. But you can figure something out.
Sounds like a fun efficient combo.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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Let me ask ...
Are you doing the conversion to get a SELECT-DRIVE TRANS (P-R-N-D-2-1)?
The F/M SINGLE-RANGE (actually a mid-case MERC-O-MATIC in the BIRD) will give you all three gears and you can select between them.
- 1955 FORD THUNDERBIRD FOLDER (PORTION) - 
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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I have the transmission, Flat-O Products C4 adapter kit, etc. There's no turning back.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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Copy that.
Out of curiosity, what year C4 do you have?
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Off the top of my head, it's either an 84 or 86 C5/w C4 converter & valve body. I have the transmission, but I'm too lazy to get. I don't think there's any difference between 84 & 86.
I'm waiting to hear from Tim Hill, who said that they either modify the shifter plate or fabricate a new plate to accommodate aftermarket shifters. I seem to recall that Hill's hasn't done a c4 conversion, but the have done AOD conversions.
Considering the cost of a Lokar shifter + the cost of modifying or fabricating a new shifter plate, I might end up just using the 55 shifter, and sacrifice the ability to manually shift into and out of first, which I would seldom do anyway. I don't like making compromises, but sometimes it just makes more sense, and the 55 shifter will look better.
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By miker - Last Month
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Truth be told, I drove my Vette with a 7004r in place of the turbo 350 for a year before I modified the shifter to get low gear. I never really missed it, and rarely held low after I did all the work (no kits in those day). Your post above reminded me.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Paul, we might have had this conversation before, but it's easy to forget the details when reconstructing something that has 10,000 parts. Anyway, did you use the C4 neutral safety/backup light switch with the original Tbird shifter?
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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Well, I am not there but it seems to me that it is do-able using the BIRD shifter assy. You would have to fashion a shift rod and a either a kick-down rod or cable setup. In fact I wonder if it has been done before and the info was never shared?
Can you (everyone) keep us updated as you go, maybe entering new info on the thread?
When you get the TRANS, can you post the ASSY ID TAG INFO?
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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Yes - I used the original C4 neutral ,safety switch. No mods needed except I had to change the wire connectors on the switch to connect to the TBird wiring. As you know, the C4 switch mounts on the trans and does not interfere with the TBird shifter. I think I did have to straighten the rod a bit but the length was good.
The pic Kultulz shows the NSS if for a column shift. (points down). The floor shift cars had the shift arm of the tarns pointing up and that is what you need. If you have the shift arm pointing down, a simple bracket attached to the existing arm can be made.
55blacktie (10/24/2024)
Paul, we might have had this conversation before, but it's easy to forget the details when reconstructing something that has 10,000 parts. Anyway, did you use the C4 neutral safety/backup light switch with the original Tbird shifter?
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By Hoosier Hurricane - Last Month
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I drove my '57 Bird today. It has an FMX transmission. I used the original shifter and have manual low gear available. Problem is, I don't remember if I had to modify the shifter or the transmission arm to get enough travel or if the FMX arm had the correct hole location to work with the original shifter. I do have all shift positions available with the original shifter. The FMX came from a car with floor shift. I am still using the original neutral safety switch which I have reworked so the car will start in Park and Neutral. Backup lightss work too.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Thanks, Paul
Two gear-selector shafts were included with the C5 core I bought, neither of which was installed. Although the levers have different bends, neither appears to be for a floor shift. I considered cutting off the lever and installing an aftermarket lever that can be clocked in any position, but it can't be used with the C4 switch. I'm sure the builder (Jim Galatioto, ATO Performance Transmissions) will have what I need.
I bought a C4 switch/w 4-prong plug; like you, I will have to remove the plug and attach compatible connectors.
I noticed you are in search of a backup light housing. My 55 doesn't have backup lights, but I would like to add them. What needs to be done to work with the C4 switch? My 55 is 12v.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Hoosier, I considered installing a longer lever on the selector shaft/using a longer rod, but the shifter itself will only move so far. If you can recall exactly what modifications you had to make to be able to manually shift through all of the gears, particularly Low, I would appreciate it if you would share the information with us.
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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The only thing you should have to do is run a wire from the ignition switch (accessory, hot when key on) to the backup light switch (combo C4 NSS) and then a wire from the NSS to the backup lights.
Originally, Ford ran the power wire from the headlight switch, so the backup lights would only work when either the parking or headlights were on. A know some have changed this and wired the light to a power source other than the headlight switch.so the light would go on every time the trans was put in reverse so people would know the car was in reverse even in daytime...
55blacktie (10/25/2024)
Thanks, Paul I noticed you are in search of a backup light housing. My 55 doesn't have backup lights, but I would like to add them. What needs to be done to work with the C4 switch? My 55 is 12v.
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By KULTULZ - Last Month
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I noticed you are in search of a backup light housing. My 55 doesn't have backup lights, but I would like to add them. What needs to be done to work with the C4 switch? My 55 is 12v.
As I remember, BACK-UP LAMPS were optional (both PASS CAR and BIRD) during this period and FORD released accessory kits to install at the dealer or owner level. The harness leading to the rear lamps incl the B/U LAMP lead. It was not used and tied off.
- https://www.npdlink.com/1955-1957-thunderbird/lighting/back-up-light-block-off
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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You are correct.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Paul, I hope I'm not beating a dead horse, but I'm going over 55 wiring diagrams and looking at the C4 switch. Firstly, the 55 wire harness has 3 wires/w female connectors; two of the wires are red/w blue stripe. @ of the wires on the C4 switch are also red/w blue stripe. I'm assuming that those wires should go together. There is a third wire on the 55 harness that is black/w blue stripe; it's for the shifter light. On the 55 safety switch, there are two wires, both black/w red stripe; the two remaining wires on the C4 switch are black/w orange stripe and brown/w orange stripe.Those wires must go to the backup lights. Correct? I'm referencing pages 20 & 22 of the Electrical Equipment Installation Manual for 55-57.
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By paul2748 - Last Month
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I think you are correct on all of your assumptions. The red/blue on the car and the switch go together.and s/b for the ignition. The other two are for the backup lights, one forward and one to the back. It's been a long time since I did mine, but I do remember that the ignition wires of the switch were the same colors for both years. The other two wires would be the back up light circuit. I don't remember which goes forward and which goes back, but it should be easy to find that out.
55blacktie (10/27/2024)
Paul, I hope I'm not beating a dead horse, but I'm going over 55 wiring diagrams and looking at the C4 switch. Firstly, the 55 wire harness has 3 wires/w female connectors; two of the wires are red/w blue stripe. @ of the wires on the C4 switch are also red/w blue stripe. I'm assuming that those wires should go together. There is a third wire on the 55 harness that is black/w blue stripe; it's for the shifter light. On the 55 safety switch, there are two wires, both black/w red stripe; the two remaining wires on the C4 switch are black/w orange stripe and brown/w orange stripe.Those wires must go to the backup lights. Correct? I'm referencing pages 20 & 22 of the Electrical Equipment Installation Manual for 55-57.
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By Hoosier Hurricane - Last Month
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'55 blacktie:
Sorry for the delayed response to your question. My wife has been hospitalized since your question so my priorities changed some. To refresh my memory I crawled under my Bird to see what I did. I see that I did not lengthen the shifter lever, but I have welded on the transmission lever, so I assume I shortened it. It is now 1 11/16 from the pivot to the center of the linkage hole. But that is for the FMX, I don't know what a C4 requires for total travel, it may be different than FMX. You will need to measure the travel required by the transmission and the travel of your shifter and use the math to determine what the lever lengths would be. I don't know if the shifter lever can be lengthened, it may hit the frame X member. That may be why I shortened the trans lever. Either that or I didn't want to alter the original shifter. Also, I'm not familiar with C4s, but does it have internal detents for each gear position? If not, then your shift lever positions will be hit or miss. I adjusted my shift rod so that when the trans was in D, the floor shifter was at the D detent. My only problem with this is that I have no positive shift lever detent for 2nd gear, I have to shift 1-2 gingerly or I'll miss 2 and go to D. If your trans has no internal detent, your 1-2 shift will be very iffy. I hope this answers your questions.
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By 55blacktie - Last Month
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Thank you.
I'm sorry to hear about your wife: I hope her condition improves quickly.
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