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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Would this housing be useable? There's a lot of rust inside and around the end where the hose attaches. It's not soft or holey but rough. Of course I will be installing a new thermostat. The intake manifold also has rust inside that I can't seem to be able to reach. Any ideas? 
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By alanfreeman - 2 Years Ago
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Give those parts a bath in muriatic (Pool) acid. Just make sure that you rinse off and neutralize all of the acid with plenty of water from a garden hose and then paint the parts right away as they will immediately begin to rust if left in bare metal.
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Will the muriatic acid bring it back to like new metal or will it just remove the rust? I'm a little concerned about where the hose goes, if it'll have a good tight seal with the roughness there now. Would the acid be good for the intake manifold also? What's the acid do?
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Believe it or not, this is the worst rust on the entire car
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By Joe-JDC - 2 Years Ago
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If you have access to a sandblaster, use that and do not acid wash it. Muratic acid will eat the iron if you leave it too long and soften it. BTDT, and now I bead blast of sand blast iron parts. Just looking at it, I would sand the thermostat flange flat, and sand the hose area lightly, and coat the whole part with rust inhibitor primer, and then paint it engine color. Should last several years before needing a new gasket. Joe-JDC
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By miker - 2 Years Ago
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It’ll probably be just fine. When they’re rough I like to “polish” or smooth them a bit with sandpaper. But the hose should seal just fine.
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Thanks y'all. I know I'm asking a lot of questions almost daily but I know I will usually get the info I need on here. Not a whole lot of other places to find info on a unusual car.
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Hey miker, you in az yet?
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By napaunderground - 2 Years Ago
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Just a thought, I've been using Evap-o-Rust in a large tub to tidy up my engine parts as I'm working through assembly. It works quite well. You can get it in 5 gallon buckets. I also used it to clean the dealer accessory heater before I painted and installed it.
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By alanfreeman - 2 Years Ago
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While it is true that muriatic acid will dissolve die cast pot metal, I have never had a problem with muriatic acid "eating iron". The acid reacts only with the rust and you leave the part in the acid just long enough to remove the rust. The result is clean fresh cast iron. I have soaked several rusty intake manifolds in a large tub to clean out the insides and never had a problem. Just make sure you remove and neutralize all of the acid before painting. Your housing should seal just fine with a new hose and tight clamp.
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By miker - 2 Years Ago
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I sent you a pm B-rad
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By Joe-JDC - 2 Years Ago
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alanfreeman (1/27/2023)
While it is true that muriatic acid will dissolve die cast pot metal, I have never had a problem with muriatic acid "eating iron". The acid reacts only with the rust and you leave the part in the acid just long enough to remove the rust. The result is clean fresh cast iron. I have soaked several rusty intake manifolds in a large tub to clean out the insides and never had a problem. Just make sure you remove and neutralize all of the acid before painting. Your housing should seal just fine with a new hose and tight clamp.
Racers have been using Muriatic acid for years as a porting medium. Coat the passages, let it sit, sand blast, re-coat the passages, let it sit, sand blast. Enlarges the passages and keeps the shape. It's called "cheating fairly" to those who do it. YES, Muriatic acid will eat cast iron and ruin it. As someone who has been porting heads and intake manifolds for the better part of 50 years, I have personal experience with Muriatic acid porting. Joe-JDC
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By BamaBob - 2 Years Ago
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Aside from rust, what is the best way to remove thick, heavy paint off of y-block engine parts?
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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All my parts were really gunky. Especially ones near the bottom of the engine. Probably a quarter inch of road grime and grease. I found a torch and scraper works great on bigger parts. Smaller parts I put in a pan with acetone and use a paint brush and the crap just falls off. Watch out for rubber parts tho. I started off using a Dremel with wire wheel attachment. Was getting too many wire strands flying everywhere. Wire wheel attachment on a drill works good and not so many loose strands.
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Hey miker, tried to pm you but it says you have too many messages and I can't send you one. You need to delete some messages it says. Come on down to Sierra Vista some day
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By 2721955meteor - 2 Years Ago
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alanfreeman (1/27/2023)
While it is true that muriatic acid will dissolve die cast pot metal, I have never had a problem with muriatic acid "eating iron". The acid reacts only with the rust and you leave the part in the acid just long enough to remove the rust. The result is clean fresh cast iron. I have soaked several rusty intake manifolds in a large tub to clean out the insides and never had a problem. Just make sure you remove and neutralize all of the acid before painting. Your housing should seal just fine with a new hose and tight clamp.
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By 2721955meteor - 2 Years Ago
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get some molasses,cattle feed store is best price mix1qwort to2gall water leave the housing in the solution for minimum 30days also in a warm aria
it looks like that engine has never had any antifreeze or water aditiv to stop cavitation..go to truck repair shop and they can help you with modern additives for deisel engines.
what does the rest of the visible water jacket look like
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Engine just came back from the mechanic and it was hot tanked. All is good. Did they even have antifreeze back then?
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By paul2748 - 2 Years Ago
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Maybe a rhetorical question, but yes they did - the antifreeze part lasts a very long time but the other additives, like rust prevention, does not last a long time. That is why it should be changed after 4 or 5 years (Today's type). Used to be three years
.B-rad (1/29/2023)
Engine just came back from the mechanic and it was hot tanked. All is good. Did they even have antifreeze back then?
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By 2721955meteor - 2 Years Ago
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hot tanks don't remove rust
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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If hot tanks don't remove rust, how do I clean out the water jackets? I thought hot tank got rid of everything.
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By geo56 - 2 Years Ago
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Be careful with that muriatic acid. While it does a great job of dissolving rust , be careful not to let parts soak in it in an enclosed area . I left a heavily pitted splash pan soak over night in a plastic tupperware tub in my small shop. The acid did a great job on the rust . However, the acid fumes permeated the air in my shop and quickly formed surface rust on any metal tools that were hanging or exposed, such as saws,, screw drivers, body shop dollies calipers. To this day, I still discover rust on seldom used tools. I will use muriatic acid again, but ONLY OUTSIDE.
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By Joe-JDC - 2 Years Ago
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Depends on the medium used for the cleaning action. Some acids are water soluble, and weaker than others, and depending on the area where you live, the EPA regulations determine how much acid is allowed in the solution. My local machine shop charges by how long they leave the parts in the solution for rust removal. Here again, the time in the acid solution is the key to rust removal. The shop should know how long it takes for that to be effective. Joe-JDC
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By alanfreeman - 2 Years Ago
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I still say based on my 50+ years of restoring old cars that the best, easiest and cheapest way of removing surface rust on ferrous metals is by using muriatic acid. Yes, be careful to avoid breathing the fumes and use it only outside. Use heavy rubber gloves on your hands. Leave the parts in the solution only long enough to remove the rust. Quickly neutralize the acid on the cleaned parts with a fresh water bath. When done, pour the used acid back into the container using a funnel and make sure not to spill any. The used acid can be used over and over. When the used acid eventually looses its strength, dispose of it as you would any hazardous waste.
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Ok but how do I clean the water jackets? Like internally.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 2 Years Ago
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I purchased my 64 truck in 2010 and at that time the vehicle was still being used. In AZ, folks tend to be rather stingy on antifreeze and this truck spent it's entire life in the vicinity. Fast forward 4 years: When I picked up the bare block from the machine shop, the inside of the water jacket "looked" nice after the shop's hot tank treatment. After closer examination, I found 50 years of hard impacted rust, especially at the bottom rear water jacket area. I spent countless hours with various fabricated rods, pieces of steel and repurposed coat hangers bent in crazy shapes to scratch/dig the hardened crud out. If the freeze plugs and heads are already installed, you won't be able to see down in there. Talk to the folks at the shop, maybe they can put your mind at ease.
'
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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Good idea. I talked to my mechanic and he said the block was thermal cleaned, or whatever it's called. And sand blasted so the water jackets are clean. Put my mind at ease. Now just prepping for painting.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 2 Years Ago
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Send pics - the Lincoln Y-s are georgeous too.
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Yours is done but before they were removed from California every block and head I built went to “Strip Clean”. A engine shop could never get them as clean. They came back looking new. They were known for doing complete car bodies but a blocks and heads were great to work with when done also.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 2 Years Ago
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Looking good but I'm still questioning the freeze plugs in the rear ports of the heads. Is it an illusion or are they installed backwards? It looks like the convex side is facing out.
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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
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No. They're all good. I'm gonna paint them. Got some good info from my mechanic about prepping and what he's done. Just in case anyone is anywhere near the south east of Arizona, I'd highly recommend using Benson's Engine Machine in Douglas AZ. Very patient, smart, personable individual. Price was right, and he had to put up with a lot of issues from the pistons mfg that had problems delivering what they promised when expected. Cudos to Grant Benson.
I'm still masking off the engine. Never did this before and trying to figure out just what needs to be marked. I figure that any holes with threads in them need to be plugged, and nuts covered, cover where the water pump goes, where the exhaust manifold gasket goes. I guess that's about it. If anyone knows anything else please tell me. First time doing this. I do have hi temp primer and hi temp paint from Hirsch. Oil pan and pump, heads are all on. Just want to make sure I know what I'm doing, or what experienced people tell me to do. I really appreciate all the years of experience you all have and give to us.
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