Correct upper control arm assembly


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By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
I took my 54 Lincoln Capri suspension apart, keeping one side together for reference. I but I think I still messed it up. I am trying to put the second side back together and now I think both sides are wrong. There is a shaft that goes between the two bushings. There are a pair of ears, not sure what else to call them, near one end of the shaft that goes up against the bushing. The other side has no ears. There is a large washer that goes up against a bushing but I don't know what goes where. I'm thinking the ears goes up against the washer and that goes up against the bushing. The other side of the shaft goes inside the bushing rubber about a half inch. I had a machine shop put the last bushing in and the ears are against the rubber of a bushing, bending the rubber pretty far. He did it the way I gave it to him. My error not his.
So if someone can confirm the way I have described it, I'd appreciate it. The manual doesn't show enough details so I can tell for sure. Thanks
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
I just found a video I shot of the engine bay before I took the suspension apart. It shows the ears side without the washer, it's on the other side. I just don't know why the bushing on the ears side is so far in that it's squishing the rubber against the ears. I know that bushing has a step halfway down that maybe that's how far it's supposed to be pressed in. Therefore not touching the ears. Help please
By paul2748 - 2 Years Ago
delete
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
Here is an ILL of the upper arm and hardware.

Can you show a photo of your install?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/803547e8-2bf1-45ec-9d97-aabd.png
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
My manual shows the same diagram but it doesn't show me which end of the shaft has the ears. I'm assuming that in that diagram you posted, the ears are on the far side since the near side does not show them. I'm posting a few pics of the first side. I think it's right since I saw an old video of the control arm before I tore into it.
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
Using the PARTS ILL above, can you call out 'ear' by the PN?
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
It doesn't show the ears on the illustration. They're two raised hunks of metal on one side of the shaft right after the bolt hole. I believe they're there to push the bushing out when you have to remove it. My middle pic kinda shows them on the left end. I'm going to get a better pic in a few and point to them.
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
Here's a pic of the 'ears'
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
Those are stops.

Did you take a photo of the assemblies before removing? Where did you source the parts?

The larger washers painted green. Was that the way they were originally assembled? Are there matching washers on the lower control arm bushings?

The ILL shown earlier is correct assy -

There are a pair of ears, not sure what else to call them, near one end of the shaft that goes up against the bushing. The other side has no ears.


Do you mean the other side of the car or the other end of the shaft?


By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
I meant the other side of the shaft has no stops. Both upper and lower arms have the large washers. I forget where I got the bushings but they were in plastic bags with the correct part not embers printed on the bags.
I took a short video of the assemblies before I tore it apart and it shows the way I did the green assembly so I think I have it right. If only the manual I'll showed which end has the stops, I wouldn't have had this issue.
By mjs - 2 Years Ago
I have several sets of the front suspension for 57 Premiere's.  I would think that they should be the same as yours.  I can get some pictures of them for you tomorrow.  
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
Thanks mjs. I had my mechanic put it together the way it was before I tore it apart and am reasonably sure it's correct but would still like to see yours. It would be nice to know someone with a similar car I the event I would have another question. That was a joke. I know I will have hundreds of questions when I start putting this car back together. Currently I have the engine at the shop getting new rod, cam and main bearings installed. The cylinders were bored out .040 over, new pistons made( for $1050). New exhaust valve seats and hydraulic lifters installed. The rest of the heads look and mic out good. Since the engine is out I cleaned up the engine bay and painted and undercoated everything. put in new shocks, the upper and lower bushings. Ball joints are still fine.
Interior was almost totally gone. I mean shot, still there except for the upholstery. Removed and threw out carpets. No rust or rot on floor.
Engine should be back next week but there's still a lot of work. Just trying to figure out how to check out the pumps, master cylinder, generator, ac compressor etc, will get me in a tizzy.
I luckily have a four year project time for the car, so not rushed at all.
Oh yeah. Changing paint color from that light green with dark green roof to a yellow with dark green roof. Luckily all the chrome and stainless is present.
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
B-rad (12/15/2022)


I meant the other side of the shaft has no stops. Both upper and lower arms have the large washers. I forget where I got the bushings but they were in plastic bags with the correct part not embers printed on the bags.
I took a short video of the assemblies before I tore it apart and it shows the way I did the green assembly so I think I have it right. If only the manual I'll showed which end has the stops, I wouldn't have had this issue.


OK ...

From what I see, the arms are not assembled correctly and it seems with the wrong/missing parts.

Print this ILL out so you can refer back to it easily -

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/78b06649-97cf-4e54-ad48-47df.png

The front and rear bushings are different. If you look at the rear bushing (3087 for 1954) you will see it is encapsulated between two washers (3091 and 3090). I believe the ears are placed at the rear bushing to trap the 3087 bushing. The front bushing is retained by the step on the arm  and outside washer.

EDIT - INCORRECT TERM - SHOULD READ SHAFT


 
The bushings themselves appear to have bent flanges, indicating the BFH method of install.

When assembled (control arms (upper and lower) did you check for free movement of the arms before inserting the springs (sans stabilizer bar)?

Now this is with the belief what you took off was correct assembly with the correct OEM and/or service parts. There are quality service parts and CHI-COM junk.

That's what I am seeing sitting here in W(BY GOD)V.




By DANIEL TINDER - 2 Years Ago
B-rad (12/16/2022)
Thanks mjs. I had my mechanic put it together the way it was before I tore it apart and am reasonably sure it's correct but would still like to see yours. It would be nice to know someone with a similar car I the event I would have another question. That was a joke. I know I will have hundreds of questions when I start putting this car back together. Currently I have the engine at the shop getting new rod, cam and main bearings installed. The cylinders were bored out .040 over, new pistons made( for $1050). New exhaust valve seats and hydraulic lifters installed. The rest of the heads look and mic out good. Since the engine is out I cleaned up the engine bay and painted and undercoated everything. put in new shocks, the upper and lower bushings. Ball joints are still fine.
Interior was almost totally gone. I mean shot, still there except for the upholstery. Removed and threw out carpets. No rust or rot on floor.
Engine should be back next week but there's still a lot of work. Just trying to figure out how to check out the pumps, master cylinder, generator, ac compressor etc, will get me in a tizzy.
I luckily have a four year project time for the car, so not rushed at all.
Oh yeah. Changing paint color from that light green with dark green roof to a yellow with dark green roof. Luckily all the chrome and stainless is present.


Curious: While I’m aware that those doing a frame-off resto usually replace the control arm bushings, I’m still not sure what symptoms might signal the necessity of replacement in an unrestored driver?  Is the appearance of hardened/cracked rubber always synonymous with handling/ride difficulties?
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
Yeah, the rubber on all the bushings were destroyed from the Arizona heat for so many years of sitting. I think I'm going to be replacing a lot of rubber on this rebuild.
By mjs - 2 Years Ago
Here is a picture of the passenger side suspension.  As you can see the end with the large washer is on the back end.  At one time I had 5 57 Premiere's and a 56.  Two of them I cannibalized for parts and I cut the front frame sections to save the suspensions.  This is a picture of one of them.  

Lincolns are kind of like pretzels.  You can never have just one. 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/4fb32424-e442-41a7-84d1-91d7.jpg  

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/e3d90311-0259-4bbe-8a1e-061d.jpg  
By mjs - 2 Years Ago
DANIEL TINDER (12/16/2022)

Curious: While I’m aware that those doing a frame-off resto usually replace the control arm bushings, I’m still not sure what symptoms might signal the necessity of replacement in an unrestored driver?  Is the appearance of hardened/cracked rubber always synonymous with handling/ride difficulties?



When the rubber in the bushings deteriorates it allows the upper control arm to float.  The movement it would allow would cause constant changes in the the camber/caster/toe and result in a severe wander when driven.  It would most likely also cause a constant clunking noise when going down the road.  Definitely not a safe situation.  
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
Can you tell me which is the front of the car, top or bottom of pic. Does either end of the shaft have the stops and if so, which end? I can't zoom in on the pics and it's hard to tell. Thanks
By Ted - 2 Years Ago
B-rad (12/17/2022)
Can you tell me which is the front of the car, top or bottom of pic. Does either end of the shaft have the stops and if so, which end? I can't zoom in on the pics and it's hard to tell. Thanks

MJS does say that the picture of the suspension is the right side.  That makes the top of the picture pointing to the rear of the car and the bottom of the picture being the front.

By mjs - 2 Years Ago
Ted is correct.  I rotated it so the angle looks more natural. The left will be the back and the right would be the front of the car.


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2aa8beb0-1269-4bcd-ab6c-3b4f.jpg
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
I'm really confused now. I'm posting a screenshot of a video I shot before I tore it apart. This is the driver's side and clearly the stops are not against the washer it's on the other end of the shaft. Unless being a different year makes a difference
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
"I'm really confused now. I'm posting a screenshot of a video I shot before I tore it apart. This is the driver's side and clearly the stops are not against the washer it's on the other end of the shaft. Unless being a different year makes a difference"

Don't feel like the LONE RANGER ...

With the original photo it is showing something different than what I thought -

This photo is the driver's side (LS)?

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/34f6617d-aeaa-4566-b620-ba27.jpg

If you notice, the front bushing (3068) has no inner washer (3091) to hold it in place on the shaft. It is held in place by the 'ears' being discussed being against the inner metal sleeve on the bushing. So therego, the 'ears' on the shaft will face forward on either side of the car.

The rear bushing is encapsulated by two retaining washers, front and rear. The front bushing uses only one retaining washer in front and the 'ears" at the rear of the front bushing. The bushing inner sleeve failed and allow the bushing to move destroying the actual insulator.

The two bushings (front and rear) are different on the '54.

CORRECTION - The bushing itself is being held on the inner side by the bushing inner sleeve going against the machined stop at the end of the shaft, Those 'ears' purpose must be to try preventing the rubber insulator from moving inwards if the inner sleeve slides/fails.

You can see where in the insulator has been wallowed by the up and down movement of the control arm.

So what I said originally is wrong. This (photo) (OP) is correct. I wish I had the 54 LINC WSM.

Damn I hope the above is understandable. I only went to the 3rd Grade (twice).
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
OK, I now see a discrepancy in the 57 LINC photo.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/d0eec3e3-4c71-487a-a07d-a2e7.jpg

Everybody take their pack off and stand easy for a while. Smoke 'em if you got 'em ...
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
So it is confusing. What could happen if they are installed incorrectly? Both arms move easily as they are
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
I am fairly certain what you removed is correct assy.

The worst thing would be the inability to set caster/camber properly (and that includes the bushings which are different for the 52/53 and the 57.  If the upper and lower arms were assembled with the spindle and without the spring and the assy moved up and down easily, you should be good. You won't know until you attempt to align and drive (if the springs are not weak and not able to get to factory setting trim height).

It is not known which setup photo (54 or 57) is correct but if you cipher on it long enough, what you started with seems correct (to me). The 1954 MPC 1954 and 1957 MPC ILL's are basically the same but they use modified ENGINEERING DRAWINGS to the extent of not showing exact application but just give a general idea (multi-year)  so the PARTS DUDE can identify the BASIC PART NUMBER to find in the TEXT.

The WSM will show a true ENGINEERING DRAWING (abbreviated) along with a photo usually.

Are you able to scan the WSM pages and post them here?
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
What's wsm?
By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
If it's the shop manual I'll it's basically the same as what was posted by someone else on here earlier. If the stops were shown it would be cut and dry as to the placement of everything
By mjs - 2 Years Ago
Here is a photo of the driver's side upper A arm taken at about the same angle as yours. As you can see the large retainer is at the rear bushing.  Interestingly my interchange catalog lists the upper A arms being the same from 52 through 57.  Moog also shows them using the same bushings.  


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/5a8e7f38-aa77-4683-9449-7812.jpg


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/8527483c-f414-47cc-a112-096f.jpg
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/2cabf0b3-1024-443f-8fc9-c68a.jpg

By B-rad - 2 Years Ago
So if you go by the pic of my green arms, they're correct?
By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago

"So if you go by the pic of my green arms, they're correct?{/b]

IMO, yes.

By KULTULZ - 2 Years Ago
"Interestingly my interchange catalog lists the upper A arms being the same from 52 through 57.  Moog also shows them using the same bushings."

There are large differences in FORD SERVICE PARTS and aftermarket. Aftermarket tends to allow more 'probably will fit' scenarios than FORD. And again there are large differences in FORD ASSEMBLY and SERVICE PARTS. FORD also will replace original service parts with later service parts or specialty parts to remedy certain situations.

MOOG (and TRW) are not what they once were. MOOG used to be a first class act.