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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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This car has been KICKING me while I'm down for about a month, now. It died one day, had a short circuit that almost burned it down the next...over the weekend while diagnosing a ticking noise that turned out to be loose exhaust manifolds I find what's shown in the photo below. I've had the car about a year and it's been great....now all this foolishness...
So, while it IS probably the "best" kind of head gasket leak, I'm not crazy about it. Is there a step by step video or photo guide that shows the process? Would you even attempt any of those sealers in a can? I haven't had the "opportunity" to fix a head gasket since I owned a set of wrenches.
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By miker - 3 Years Ago
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I’m not sure I’m seeing the picture right, but it’s the yellow streak between the head and block just to the right of the downpipe?
I had a new head gasket leak a little water on start up, and a re torque solved it. But on a run in motor how you fix a leaking head gasket is another head gasket. Try putting a torque wrench on it (PITA to get to all the bolts), in sequence, but probably a replacement.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 3 Years Ago
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I have the same issue and tolerated it for going on 10 years and counting. Slight staining from antifreeze weeping. It never drips and I've never been able to sneak up on it and catch it while it is wet nor do I have to ever add antifreeze. My engine performs excellent so I just live with it as it's easy enough to clean in a truck. I believe Ted mentioned some time ago that the Felpro blue head gaskets are the problem and that's what I used, unfortunately.
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By peeeot - 3 Years Ago
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My head gasket was weeping at the rear of the driver side cylinder head enough that I did have to periodically top off the radiator. I retorqued the head bolts and it has substantially addressed the problem. Haven’t had to add coolant in months. I am not sure that it’s bone dry at this point but I can certainly live with it. So, one more vote for re-torquing the head bolts.
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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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I will try a re-torque first, then. Is there a specific sequence, or would it not even matter at this point? Looks like 75 lb/ft is what I'm after?
Thanks.
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By Dobie - 3 Years Ago
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There is a sequence. I did a web search and could not find an illustration. If you have a service manual the sequence will be be contained therein. You want 65 to 75 foot pounds.
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By Saltshaker - 3 Years Ago
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This is the head torque info from the 1956 Ford Shop Manual. (WSM) The info outlined in red is for a retorque without pulling the head. Hope this helps.
Don
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By DANIEL TINDER - 3 Years Ago
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For some reason, photos posted in this forum typically appear superimposed over part of the text., so I always miss some info as a result. Still waiting for a way to fix the issue (?).
Anyway, I don’t see where the O.P. has revealed the type of head gasket, or whether the coolant leak has invaded the combustion chamber (spark plug evidence?).
My original motor with steel gaskets became overheated & started leaking around one cylinder (weeping head/frosted plug) years ago. I then switched to 70% propylene coolant & zero pressure radiator cap, and the leaking stopped, so I never bothered with re-torqing.
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By 2721955meteor - 3 Years Ago
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if the head bolts are original some wher not grade 8. if you are removing the head replace the bolts with grade 8.also clean the threads in bock(run a bottoming tap down all the way
by hand so you can feel any resistance.. I would put a dab of engine oil on the new head bolts. with new comesition gaskets you have a 90%cance to stop the leaks
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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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All I see is a little weep down the side of the block between the #2 bolt that you're supposed to torque. I see no evidence (so far) of anything mixing that should not be...and I have no idea what gasket is in there.
I got in there today and re-torqued. The #2 and #6 bolts were the only ones (that I could get to) that moved at all with torque wrench set at 75. Everything else was tight. I wasn't able to get to the ones at either end of the rocker shaft because nothing would fit and I had visions of things I don't know falling off the shaft and falling into the pushrod holes and getting lost...
Fingers crossed that this worked. If not...then I'll probably be hounding you all for tips on head gasket replacement.
Thanks again.
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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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So...sounds like Fel Pro is the head gasket to avoid...Which is the one to get? I figured Mummert sold the best one and, at least that's what it's called. Which is the one to get?
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By Ted - 3 Years Ago
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I use the Best Gasket brand gaskets for the Ford Y. The part number for the individual ‘BG’ FYB head gaskets is 572G. Those particular head gaskets are good for up to a 3.860” bore. Bst Gskt also makes head gaskets for the Y for the larger bores if necessary.
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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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Where do you order them from?
I am all set to order the gaskets but the distributors listed on the Best Gaskets website are the sketchiest I've seen since 1999. A dead link that told me that my account had been suspended, the only one that will allow me to order anything is EGGE and they want $42 for GROUND shipping? Half of them are just email addresses...
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By Joe-JDC - 3 Years Ago
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Shipping has gotten crazy. I needed a freeze plug set for my 312, and went to O'Reileys to get a MPE-111BR brass freeze plug set, and they cost $9.97, but would have to be shipped in for $11.95 from Melling. Shipping would be more than the item. I refused, and found the same parts at another parts house in stock. I ordered a dipstick tube for the 312 Y, and the shipping was almost the same price as the tube. Thanks to the present Administration for all this. Joe-JDC
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By 55blacktie - 3 Years Ago
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Unless you need the part "yesterday," it pays to shop around.
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By Lord Gaga - 3 Years Ago
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Joe-JDC (9/23/2022)
Shipping has gotten crazy. I needed a freeze plug set for my 312, and went to O'Reileys to get a MPE-111BR brass freeze plug set, and they cost $9.97, but would have to be shipped in for $11.95 from Melling. Shipping would be more than the item. I refused, and found the same parts at another parts house in stock. I ordered a dipstick tube for the 312 Y, and the shipping was almost the same price as the tube. Thanks to the present Administration for all this. Joe-JDC
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By Cliff - 3 Years Ago
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Now is the time to stock up on parts, look at swap meets, E Bay and other sights, good parts at good prices are still around (hard to find) this problem is only going to get worst.
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By darrell - 3 Years Ago
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ive got a lot of stuff at swap meets over the years.its starting to dry up a bit as this stuff gets older.a lot of it is caused by hoaders.they dont have one spare but 10
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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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MAN ALIVE! I've been locked out for a few days and finally Ted was able to get my password reset...
I ordered some of the Best Gaskets but I've never had a tougher time buying ANYTHING in my life. Even beer when I was underage!
Most of the "distributors" on the website didn't list the Best brand gaskets and if they did there was no way to order them...I finally got so annoyed I called Mooneyes to see if they could get them. Probably paid too much but I'd rather be looking AT them than looking FOR them.
Now...
Would YOU drive it the way it is? I'm getting mixed opinions from people- on the one hand a mechanic at work said that if it's not overheating and the leak isn't bad to make the most out of the last month or so of cruising season...Another very knowledgeable guy about all things mechanical said that I run the risk of warping something. As it sits, it seems like it's very little seepage, when I touch between the #1 and #2 cylinders it doesn't really feel wet - maybe "moist"- with a faint smell of coolant on the finger. Seems like the only issue is this mild external leak. Would THAT get hot enough to warp something? Also, if it matters, 29.5" tire with 4.27 gears means about 3300 RPMs on the highway. Will that have any effect on this issue?
Thanks again.
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By charliemccraney - 3 Years Ago
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You are taking some risk but in general, a small leak should be fine for another month or so. Just keep an eye on it. If you drive it daily, get a feel for how fast the coolant leaks out and top it off frequently based on that. Pay attention to the temperature gauge and if one day the temp just climbs, use your best judgement about what to do. Maybe you can get to a store and put some distilled water or 50/50 antifreeze in and get home or maybe it needs to be towed. In that scenario, if you plan to fix it very soon, use distilled water because it is cheap. If it may be a while before you get to it, get the 50/50.
I've done all of the above at one time or another.
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By darrell - 3 Years Ago
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drive it.its not going to hurt anything.your getting to much info.all that does in the end is create confusion.
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By Ted - 3 Years Ago
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If not changing out the gaskets right away, just be sure to check the coolant fluid level frequently. It’s only when it’s low will you have an issue with overheating. Overheating creates its own set of problems and engine damage.
I quit using Fel-Pro head gaskets many years ago due to those coolant leaks that are evident as ‘seeps’ at the lower edges of the cylinder heads. Talking with Fel-Pro did not get any results or changes. The Best Gasket head gaskets have a better design which allows for improved torque distribution around the lower head bolts and are not as prone to coolant leaks like those seen with the Fel-Pro gaskets. For Fel-Pro this seems to be a Ford Y nuance as their head gaskets for other engine families do not have that same issue.
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By paul2748 - 3 Years Ago
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If I remember correctly, I got my Best head gaskets through Egge.
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By Deyomatic - 3 Years Ago
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I got my confirmation from Mooneyes today that mine will be on the way...and I'll keep an eye on the temp gauge and the radiator level and stop freaking out...I hope.
Thanks again.
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By miker - 3 Years Ago
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You’ll be fine. Having blown more than one head gasket on 11:1 motors and supercharged ones, you know when it happens. A little leakage outside the chamber is something you monitor on coolant level and temp. No freaking out required.
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