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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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I am getting heat out of my heater any time the car is moving. Upon investigating, I have found that my universal cable-operated heater valve can easily be blown through in either direction when fully shut. The valve is located in the line from the intake manifold port to the heater core; it enters the lower heater core port. The upper heater core port flows to the fitting on the water pump. I believe this is the correct setup, so I believe the closed heater control valve must be flowing enough hot water to keep the core hot.
Can anyone recommend a cable-operated valve that completely stops the flow when shut?
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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The one used in the non-electronic controlled aftermarket complete AC/Heater units like Vintage Air should be fine. They list 2; one pulls and one pushes. About $20.00 in the online catalog under heater valve.
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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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The ones they list look identical to the one I have. I may give them a call to verify that they should not pass any liquid.
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By miker - 2 Years Ago
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If you’ve got the the metal chromate plate one (typically sold to replace the vacuum heater valve on an early t bird) I’ve never had one that didn’t leak. Even if they seemed ok at idle or cruise, one good wing to 4000 rpm or so and I had heat. I’ve had 3 of them, the last one from Classic Air for an a/c system. Way more heat than the a/c could cool.
I finally went to NAPA and bought a similar (but plastic) unit for an 80’s Ford truck. Shut is shut with it. Unfortunately I can’t remember the model. I don’t like plastic, but it solved the problem. Cable operated.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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I looked up NAPA auto parts and searched “Heater Valve”. They list a lot with photos: vacuum, electric and mechanical. They show a mechanical that can screw into the intake 90* and cable operated. They also show the one in question plus many plastic ones. The electronic valve I have from old air products circulates when off for the heater; it then opens when I call for the heater. Both lines to the heater from the valve are cold when the heater is not called for. This keeps the AC more efficient as it never needs to cool the heater core in the unit.
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By miker - 2 Years Ago
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So it’s a bypass style and not just off? That’s the solution, I’ll go check their site. Thanks DLR.
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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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So, Four Seasons model 74628 looks the part. Napa has an identical valve, part TEM 935032. Seems like this valve would work as well as the stock setup could, assuming it stops flow through the core completely.
Should this suffice, or do I need a bypass valve as mentioned to completely isolate the core to keep heat from bleeding into the passenger compartment?
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By miker - 2 Years Ago
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The NAPA looks a lot like mine. I’ve got a short piece of 5/8” garden hose with the fitting to screw on the hose bib. I hooked it up to the valve and turned it on. Closed, it held the 80 psi my house had. That’s sufficient.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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I bought a Newport electric wiper conversion kit and a manual heater-control valve to eliminate the vacuum accessories. I was not pleased about the manual heater-control valve being plastic, but feel better after reading Miker's post. Additionally, I have a shut-off valve at the manifold; if the system leaks, I'll close the valve. Hopefully, the made-in-China shut-off valve won't leak.
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By DryLakesRacer - 2 Years Ago
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Miker…the electronic valve was part of my AC conversion/addition and connected to the electronic controller. I don’t know if there is anything like it mechanical. I’ll include a photo of it.
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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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I order Four Seasons 74627. It fit perfectly and it definitely totally stops flow when in the off position. I’ll post back after I get to road test to see whether it solves the forever-heat problem.
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By miker - 2 Years Ago
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Thanks for the number and response. I wish I’d thought to do that when I bought one. I guess I should admit while I don’t like plastic, I did have a whole car made out of it once.
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By 55blacktie - 2 Years Ago
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Lego?
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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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I’m not wild about plastic parts either, but in this installation it’s hard to see, tucked up under the heater ductwork. If it works, I’ll happily live with it!
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By charliemccraney - 2 Years Ago
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RE plastic heater valves, if it's OEM, it will probably be fine. If it is aftermarket, probably for an older application, then possibly be prepared to replace it every couple years.
I made the mistake of replacing the original valve on my '88 Firebird as a preventative measure some time in the 2000s. Since then, I've had to replace the Chinese aftermarket ones every year or two. They all fail in the exact same way and start to leak. Fortunately it's pretty easy to replace but I'd gladly pay a couple hundred for a quality billet aluminum unit if it was available.
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By paul2748 - 2 Years Ago
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Four Seasons has a metal one. If your interested, its for sale
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By peeeot - 2 Years Ago
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So far, the plastic valve is doing the trick! Absolutely no heat from the heater box on a test drive when the temp knob is turned all the way down. Now that I think about it, I never opened the valve up, so it’s possible some air is trapped in there from when I replaced it. I’ll post back if there are any problems, but for now I think this is the solution. Thanks for the help!
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