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By Richard - 4 Years Ago
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I see the recommended oil is 40 weight motor oil. I used Hypoid.
what are you guys using
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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Do NOT use anything for diffs, transaxles or anything marked "universal". They all contain hypoid additives (sulphur) which will damage any brass parts inside the transmission, namely the synchronizers. Use straight mineral oil only. Tractor Supply carries it under the brand name Traveler Ford Tractor Transmission Oil. NAPA Auto Parts also has it, but they may have to order it for you since it's not a high demand item these days.
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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Many modern hypoid gear oils are safe with yellow metals. Read the bottle and check the manufacturers website.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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If he gets straight mineral oil no need to read labels and check websites. He can be assured it's the right stuff right off the bat. JMHO
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By NoShortcuts - 4 Years Ago
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For Borg Warner standard and overdrive transmissions, Dobie is giving you the correct information. The B-W call for mineral oil has to do with a needed friction factor characteristic that makes the synchronizer hub and synchronizer blocking rings work the way the B-W engineers intended them to work. Tractor Supply is where I have gotten the correct mineral oil lubricant, also.
Last week Tazx100 posted a Borg Warner manual filled with GooD, A-Z information regarding the operation, maintenance, and servicing of the B-W R-10 and R-11 overdrive units.
I question one item in the above manual. On page 15 of the manual, item # 40-e suggests the use S.A.E. 40 or 50 engine oil in the overdrive unit! I have NEVER seen that in print before. Personally, I would NOT recommend the use of any grade of engine oil in the R-10 or R-11 overdrive unit.
Interestingly, on the same page 15 of the manual, item 40-f suggests in so many words that 'Straight mineral oil of the transmission type, S.A.E. 80 or 90 will also be satisfactory.' I've ONLY used 80 or 90 weight mineral oil in the 1960 and earlier Borg Warner manual transmissions I've had or worked on.
Click the link below to see information Forum member Tazx100 posted pertaining to the Borg Warner Overdrive Manual AND comments others Forum members made about the posting.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/FindPost158999.aspx
Hope this helps! 
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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This is the oil you want to use in your transmission. You can buy it at Tractor Supply
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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"I question one item in the above manual. On page 15 of the manual, item # 40-e suggests the use S.A.E. 40 or 50 engine oil in the overdrive unit! I have NEVER seen that in print before. Personally, I would NOT recommend the use of any grade of engine oil in the R-10 or R-11 overdrive unit."
Use of these transmissions goes back to the '30s. I don't know for sure, but it's possible the OD on the early units was completely separate from the main trans as far as lubrication was concerned (no passage between the OD and main box). Could be BW just never updated the manual to reflect the changes. I think there also may be a reference in it to the reverse lockout switch which was deleted in 1950 or '51 in favor of the mechanical system that simply moves the planetary carrier out of engagement with the sun gear when reverse is selected.
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By BamaBob - 4 Years Ago
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Phil, is this oil also the one to use in the T-98 truck transmission?
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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Using a #40 - 50 motor oil isn't uncommon, even in the late 60's truck NP435 4 speeds call for #50 motor oil. Any 80-90 mineral gear oil is considered OK.
Just as a note: Gear oil and engine oil viscosity is measured differently and 80-90 is equivalent to 50 engine oil. I've been using 80-90 in all my trans since back in the 60's with no problem.
What you don't want to use is newer GL5 synthetic types or any for Hypoids. Newer trans that use GL5 types have blocker rings and not brass synchros.
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By cos - 4 Years Ago
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I quickly looked over instructions. 23-b says that if lockout lever can be moved more than a 1/4 inch something is wrong. Is that right or I'am reading it wrong? Bill Oregon
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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Last week Tazx100 posted a Borg Warner manual filled with GooD, A-Z information regarding the operation, maintenance, and servicing of the B-W R-10 and R-11 overdrive units.
What year was that publication released? I think lubricant tech has changed a little since then.
Similar to the TYPE A ATF discussions.
1957 LUBRICATION CHART -
READ THIS - https://carnesmechanical.com/best-manual-transmission-fluid/
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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That's the way I read it, too. However that section is in reference to a misalignment of the OD to the main case when new. Unless yours has been apart and improperly reassembled causing a misalignment and everything works properly I wouldn't worry too much. These transmissions were last installed in new vehicles about 50 or so years ago, so there's bound to be some wear.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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What I find interesting in the lubrication chart it shows lubricant B6A 19580 B for both rear axle and transmission..
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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BamaBob (11/18/2021)
Phil, is this oil also the one to use in the T-98 truck transmission?
I am not familiar with that transmission. BW overdrives have been used in Ford vehicles since the thirties. The O/D transmission lubricant issue has been covered on this forum numerous times. Experts tell me there is an issue with modern lubricants and older synchronizer materials and I was advised to use the tractor oil. It's cheap and easy to find. I have been using it in my T86-R10 transmission for about four years and I haven't had any problems. Incidentally, I have rebuilt both T85-R11 and T86-R10 transmissions in my home garage. Both have joined lubricant reservoirs. The proper way to fill them is to remove the side plug from the overdrive unit then fill the side of the main unit until the overdrive unit runs out. That way you know both are full. You could do that in reverse order, but it's hard to force oil into the O/D side.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 4 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/18/2021)
Last week Tazx100 posted a Borg Warner manual filled with GooD, A-Z information regarding the operation, maintenance, and servicing of the B-W R-10 and R-11 overdrive units.
What year was that publication released? I think lubricant tech has changed a little since then.
Similar to the TYPE A ATF discussions.
1957 LUBRICATION CHART -
READ THIS - https://carnesmechanical.com/best-manual-transmission-fluid/
One thing anyway learned from that chart: It never occurred to me before to lube the hood/trunk hinges. I should also do all the locks soon. Can’t imagine how I’d get the trunk open if that one failed (I already was nearly stranded once when the ignition lock broke, so should have learned then).
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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What I find interesting in the lubrication chart it shows lubricant B6A 19580 B for both rear axle and transmission..
That is what I was trying to get across. That is 1957 SPEC. Can you imagine how far LUBRICANTS have come just from 1957?
It is not advisable (IMO) to rely on a LUBE CHART fifty-tears old.
Read This Ad -
It is GL-4 and is safe for copper alloys. This is just one refiner. This is a modern lubricant.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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This is the oil you want to use in your transmission. You can buy it at Tractor Supply
I think that fluid and usage is a little out of date - 1939-1952
https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-ford-tractor-all-mineral-90-transmission-fluid-2-gal
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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BUT, it's the type and viscosity, 90 wt. GL-1, specified by BW for our transmissions. I've been using it for decades in BW OD transmissions with never an issue regarding the oil. I think whoever makes Traveller needs to update the label.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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Many of the newer lubricants are designed for newer trans, not like the old trans we use. I had learned from doing some investigation not to use GL5 and later synthetic oils and this was confirmed by a top builder of rear gears that I talked to when I had them rebuild my rear gears. Synthetics have additives that can either harden or soften old style rubber seals.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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Yeah, newer manuals don't have any brass parts inside.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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BUT, it's the type and viscosity, 90 wt. GL-1, specified by BW for our transmissions. I've been using it for decades in BW OD transmissions with never an issue regarding the oil. I think whoever makes Traveller needs to update the label.
That specification is from a 1930's publication. Even the 57 FORD SPEC has been upgraded. And it called for S.A.E 80
The MINERAL OIL description is correct. It is now used for farm machinery (the reason it is found mainly at TRACTOR SUPPLY). The user is the one that has to keep up with current TECH.
This is the same song and dance as owners thinking TYPE A ATF is still current TECH. It is now used mainly for hydraulic oil.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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OK, then what do you suggest we use in our Transmissions? Seems to me obsolete oil is just the ticket for obsolete gearboxes. Regarding the '57 S.A.E. 80 spec, perhaps some changes were made to the transmission for that model year and Ford decided by testing that the new spec was backwards compatible with the earlier transmissions.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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I've been using GL4 80-90 for longer then I can remember in all my trans and have never had a trans problem.
Most people don't know that the light duty Ford 3speed was a BW design and licensed to Ford to build..
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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I've been using GL4 80-90 for longer then I can remember in all my trans ...
There is your answer Dobie.
But not all GL-4 is refined/modified in the same manner. It is the owners (or shop) responsibility to ascertain what is correct for the application. There is no one-fit-all.
It is GL-5 or MT that you stay wary of.
Didn't mean to piss you off.
Lubricants advance in design just like anything else. I surely wouldn't go by a 1957 FORD LUBE CHART.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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GL-4 still has sulphur, albeit in a reduced amount. Based on the above statement by 57RancheroJim, it may be OK to use but I would like to see the synchros after long term use, and an oil analysis. Since I have what is likely a lifetime supply of GL-1 (the Traveller oil only comes in 2 gal. jugs) I'll keep using it.
You didn't piss me off, I like a good kerfuffle. 
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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The question was what is the correct fluid to use.
What you personally use is your choice.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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Dobie (11/19/2021)
GL-4 still has sulphur, albeit in a reduced amount. Based on the above statement by 57RancheroJim, it may be OK to use but I would like to see the synchros after long term use, and an oil analysis. Since I have what is likely a lifetime supply of GL-1 (the Traveller oil only comes in 2 gal. jugs) I'll keep using it. You didn't piss me off, I like a good kerfuffle. I've never had a synchro problem and I've never done an oil analysis and have never touched the trans except one I did a rear seal replacement. My light duty truck R10 trans has well over 200,000 miles now and my BW T85 R-11 that has been in several cars over the years has countless miles on it.. I'm not saying it's the only type to use, just my experience.
Like everything else it's the owners choice what they want to use.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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Somewhere around 30 years ago a deactivated or buffered sulfur was developed that would react with
the phosphorous to create the protective/sacrificial layer in the conditions created in the gear boxes
(temperature and pressure) without being corrosive to the brass, copper, etc. This additive system is
used in most gear oils today.
Further In Text -
Summary
Just remember that GL-4 and GL-5 are gear oil ratings, not transmission oil ratings. Transmissions
have gears and synchronizers. These seemingly conflicting requirements must be met differently.
When someone tells you that their GL-5 covers GL-4, remember they are correct as far as EP protection,
but that is only half the answer. When they say their Sulfur/Phosphorous additive will not corrode the
yellow metals, they are also correct, but if there are enough to meet GL-5 protection, they will slowly
peel away your brass synchronizers.
FULLY EXPLAINED SOURCE - https://www.widman.biz/uploads/Transaxle_oil.pdf
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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While newer technology is great it also becomes more confusing at times. Back in the early 60's I worked part time in a gas station and we did a lot of lube/oil changes, not everyone took their car to a dealer for service. We would just remove the fill plug on the trans and rear ends to check the fluid level and if needed which was seldom we would pump a little 90W in. I don't recall a different oil for the two and I don't know what rating it was, GL? Life was easier back then
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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57RancheroJim (11/21/2021)
While newer technology is great it also becomes more confusing at times. Back in the early 60's I worked part time in a gas station and we did a lot of lube/oil changes, not everyone took their car to a dealer for service. We would just remove the fill plug on the trans and rear ends to check the fluid level and if needed which was seldom we would pump a little 90W in. I don't recall a different oil for the two and I don't know what rating it was, GL? Life was easier back then
That service station gear lube oil brings back some memories. Had a friend with a ’56 Ford with a 428 back in the early Seventies with a 9” rear end and his rear gears would only last about 3-4 weeks at which point the gears were howling due to extreme gear wear. The pinion gears were showing much more wear than the ring gears but they were definitely wasted. He worked at a service station and simply used the oil that was available in the no name brand 30 gallon dispenser with a pump when changing out the third members. After at least two of those 9” third members going bad in a very short period of time, I suggested that he just go to the parts store and buy a name brand oil (in this case it was Valvoline). He did that and never had another issue with the rear gears prematurely going away.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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I too was a refueling tech and service maintenance gas station giggle-low in the sixties. Most things were simpler then.
Gear oil came from a drum using a pressure gun ...
Today, with ASIAN and EURO TECH and performance/hybrid cars it is much more complicated.
In this article is a GEAR OIL CHART which gives current tech. GL-2 and -3 are now inactive -
https://www.engineersedge.com/gears/gears_lubrication_general.htm
This is the same as the great TYPE A MOBY DICK ATF debate. One cannot depend on an era publication for specs as too much has changed and what you think you are buying isn't really what the car needs or what you think it is, all of this of course IMO.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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Ted, that doesn't surprise me. When I worked at the scrubron station everything was labeled scrubron but who knows who made it? I wish I knew what the factory used in the transmissions? I use to blow a lot of the light duty 3 speeds and a few rear ends and got replacements at the junk yard, pulled the side covers off to look at the gears and they always smelled like 90W..
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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"Summary
Just remember that GL-4 and GL-5 are gear oil ratings, not transmission oil ratings. Transmissions
have gears and synchronizers. These seemingly conflicting requirements must be met differently.
When someone tells you that their GL-5 covers GL-4, remember they are correct as far as EP protection,
but that is only half the answer. When they say their Sulfur/Phosphorous additive will not corrode the
yellow metals, they are also correct, but if there are enough to meet GL-5 protection, they will slowly
peel away your brass synchronizers."
I rest my case. 
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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I think this is interesting, scroll down to the gear oil
https://www.fifthaveinternetgarage.com/overdrive_parts.php
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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It is innersting, as Ross Perot used to say. One glaring mistake in it; there are no brass parts in the OD itself, only the the synchros in the main box. $30 a gallon! OUCH!. You can get 2 gallons of the same stuff from Tractor Supply for about $20 with tax.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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When they say their Sulfur/Phosphorous additive will not corrode the
yellow metals, they are also correct, but if there are enough to meet GL-5 protection, they will slowly
peel away your brass synchronizers."
I rest my case.
Dobie, I realize that I am somewhat reading comprehension challenged but what is it exactly that you cipher in that text?
GL-1 is in no way comparable to GL-4. They are decades apart. That is why you only find it in equipment/agriculture supply stores.
BTW - Blocking rings will eventually wear to the point where they need replacement regardless of lubricant type.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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Dobie (11/21/2021)
It is innersting, as Ross Perot used to say. One glaring mistake in it; there are no brass parts in the OD itself, only the the synchros in the main box. $30 a gallon! OUCH!. You can get 2 gallons of the same stuff from Tractor Supply for about $20 with tax. What about the tail shaft bushing and thats lubricated by the oil in the OD. I thought about purchasing that oil years ago but I'm to cheap to pay that price + $20 a gallon to ship.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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Yeah, I forgot about the tail shaft bushing. Not strictly part of the OD but there nonetheless.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/21/2021)
When they say their Sulfur/Phosphorous additive will not corrode the
yellow metals, they are also correct, but if there are enough to meet GL-5 protection, they will slowly
peel away your brass synchronizers."
I rest my case.
Dobie, I realize that I am somewhat reading comprehension challenged but what is it exactly that you cipher in that text?
GL-1 is in no way comparable to GL-4. They are decades apart. That is why you only find it in equipment/agriculture supply stores.
BTW - Blocking rings will eventually wear to the point where they need replacement regardless of lubricant type.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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No, the statement states that both GL-4 and GL-5 contain modern formulations and unless a manufacturer's lube chart specifically calls for GL-5, GL-5 (or 6) cannot be used for transmission fill as the GL-5 concentration is much higher in GL-5 rather than GL-4.
GL-5 and GL-6 are meant for the DIF in most instances.
Just admit it, you are just too damn cheap to buy current TECH fluid ...
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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GL-4 has sulphur in it (unless stated otherwise by the manufacturer), just not as much as GL-5. Therefore using GL-4 in our ancient trannies will still have a negative impact on the synchros, just not as fast as GL-5 will. And, yes, I admit to being cheap. My jug of GL-1 has been in the family for decades. 
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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Yes, GL-4 has a sulfur blend. It is included as a necessity in late transmissions. You must watch a lot of SUPERMAN SERIALS on the NOSTALGIC TV CHANNEL. You are in a time warp.
I think your family has been snortin' on that jug of mineral oil ... 
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/21/2021)
Yes, GL-4 has a sulfur blend. It is included as a necessity in late transmissions. You must watch a lot of SUPERMAN SERIALS on the NOSTALGIC TV CHANNEL. You are in a time warp. I think your family has been snortin' on that jug of mineral oil ...
Again I rest my case. 😁 Sulphur is a necessity in LATE transmissions. It is NOT a necessity in our primitive boxes.
No time warp, I just won't use something that I know is harmful. If a manufacturer comes up with a modern formulation that does no damage I will use it...when my jug of GL-1 is empty. 
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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While you are resting your case -
https://www.redlineoil.com/mt-90-75w90-gl-4-gear-oil
Let me bring out this one factoid listed -
Safe for brass synchros, as it lacks the reactive sulfurs found in most GL-5 oils that cause damage
Not all lubricant refiners offer the exact same product. It is for you to read and comprehend.
API OIL CLASSIFICATION CHART -
https://www.oilspecifications.org/api_gos.php
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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I'll take it under advisement when I run out of GL-1, but at $18.60 I can buy 2 gallons of Traveller. Hmmm, lessee. $18.60/qt. or 2 gallons of GL-1 for the same price. 🤨
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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I'll take it under advisement when I run out of GL-1, but at $18.60 I can buy 2 gallons of Traveller. Hmmm, lessee. $18.60/qt. or 2 gallons of GL-1 for the same price. 🤨
So let me get this right, you understand modern lubricants now but are unwilling to take car of that pretty MERC (which I assume has always been faithful) as you would rather spend your money on wine, women and song?
Interesting exercise ... Take it easy ...
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/22/2021)
I'll take it under advisement when I run out of GL-1, but at $18.60 I can buy 2 gallons of Traveller. Hmmm, lessee. $18.60/qt. or 2 gallons of GL-1 for the same price. 🤨
So let me get this right, you understand modern lubricants now but are unwilling to take car of that pretty MERC (which I assume has always been faithful) as you would rather spend your money on wine, women and song?
Interesting exercise ... Take it easy ...
I have always understood that some modern lubricants are better than the stuff available when our cars were new. Modern motor oil is light years ahead of the sludgy, mostly paraffin based oils of the day, even though we have to mind the ZDDP levels and/or add it ourselves.. Modern differential oils are preferable and completely safe for us. Most modern transmission oils are not safe for the brass parts in our transmissions and I won't use them. The engineer in me just won't let me do it.
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By Richard - 4 Years Ago
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Well, I never thought I would get such a bundle of information. For what I sift, sulfur is bad for brass synchros and tractor supplies carry the oil I need. Please let’s end this thread and move on
thanks all
Richard
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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Glad to see you back. I thought maybe we scared you off.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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For what I sift, sulfur is bad for brass synchros and tractor supplies carry the oil I need.
... sob ...
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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Ya can't win 'em all.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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Ya can't win 'em all.
Damn if that ain't the truth ...
All of that and didn't make a ripple. I think from here on out I will just observe.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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Even F. Lee Bailey lost a case once in a while. Just one question to put the cherry on top: why were you trying to sell me on using a gear oil that has a known substance that's harmful to brass synchros in it? Or a much more expensive alternative when GL-1 is all that's needed? Just because something is modern doesn't mean it's good for every application.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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Just one question to put the cherry on top: why were you trying to sell me on using a gear oil that has a known substance that's harmful to brass synchros in it? Or a much more expensive alternative when GL-1 is all that's needed? Just because something is modern doesn't mean it's good for every application.
Dobie,
No. 1 - The product is in no way harmful to copper alloys.
No. 2 - If you can't figure it out with all the TECH presented, there is no further use of my trying to get it across.
Have a nice one.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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In a previous post I added a link to the people who deal in OD parts and their expensive oil. They stated not to use GL-1 tractor oil, why that is I have no idea and I never called them to find out why. Use what ever you want, it's your car..
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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If you're talking about the Redline oil I'll agree that it can't harm the synchros since it has no sulphur. The only other advantage I see is it has a friction modifier to aid shifting when cold. Since I don't drive my car much during the cold months I see that as little benefit, considering the major price difference. In the warmer months the first few shifts are slightly notchy, but that goes away within a mile of driving. Also, the OD requires a certain friction coefficient to operate properly, which is provided by GL-1. Redline's friction modifier(s) could conceivably cause the OD to not function properly. If you have a vehicle with BW overdrive I'll let you be the guinea pig.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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... why can't the boy learn ...?
Jim Said -
In a previous post I added a link to the people who deal in OD parts and their expensive oil. They stated not to use GL-1 tractor oil, why that is I have no idea and I never called them to find out why.
Jim,
The only link in one of your posts I see shows the vendor recommending GL-1 only. Did I miss something?
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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The only other advantage I see is it has a friction modifier to aid shifting when cold. Since I don't drive my car much during the cold months I see that as little benefit, considering the major price difference. In the warmer months the first few shifts are slightly notchy, but that goes away within a mile of driving. Also, the OD requires a certain friction coefficient to operate properly, which is provided by GL-1.
... hmmph ...
Imagine that. Kind of hard to figure it out, isn't it?
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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OK, so it improves cold shifting. What about the OD? I want to see independent real world testing and data.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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... you're quick ...
I want to see independent real world testing and data.
I doubt anyone would take the time and expense of what you are asking. Why would the upgraded lubricant have any adverse effect on the OD section, other than better protection?
GL-4 is natural progression as is multi-grade detergent motor oils.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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The OD needs a certain amount of friction to operate properly. That specified friction is provided by GL-1. I would like to see testing specifically on the OD before I would commit to using Redline. You're correct, Redline is unlikely to go to the trouble of validating their formula just for a relative few OD transmissions. If you have a BW OD equipped vehicle, or know someone who does and is willing to roll the dice, try it and report back.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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The OD needs a certain amount of friction to operate properly. That specified friction is provided by GL-1.
I now see (or hear) what you are saying.
Where are you sourcing your info on the trans?
OH! ... I forgot as usual. I went to BW for any possible lubricant update(s) and found they sold their manual trans operation to TREMEC some years ago.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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"Where are you sourcing your info on the trans?"
I'll call your attention to the official BW OD service manual, section II, Operating Principals, Overdrive, paragraph b: It says "Assuming that the car is being driven with the dash control pushed in, the sun gear control plate revolves along with the sun gear at the speed of the transmission main shaft. Under such circumstances, the blocker ring by it's frictional drag upon the hub of the control plate, is rotated into such a position as to latch the control pawl against inward movement. When the car reaches a predetermined speed the governor contacts close, acting through the electrical circuit to energize the solenoid. The latter sets a spring pressure against the pawl, tending to push it into engagement. This movement is prevented by the blocker. However, the driver may momentarily close the throttle, whereupon the roller clutch releases, and the engine slows down. At the same time, the sun gear slows down, more rapidly, so that the sun gear passes through the stand-still condition when engine speed has fallen 30%, and then reverses its motion. Upon the instant of reversal, the blocker ring, moved by its frictional drive from the control plate hub, rotates slightly in this direction and releases the pawl which snaps into the first notch of the backwardly rotating control plate."
This is from the Service Operations section, paragraph 28, INSUFFICIENT BLOCKER RING FRICTION. "If the overdrive engages with a severe jolt, or noise, probably the blocker ring has lost its frictional grip upon the hub of the sun gear control plate." (ed. note: this is usually a mechanical problem, however insufficient friction coefficient of the lubricant may cause a similar problem)
So, you can see how dependent the OD is on the proper frictional coefficient of the lubricant. The friction modifiers in modern gear lubricants will likely throw that balance out of kilter, causing drivability issues and possible damage. Bold italic added for emphasis.
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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This back and forth banter between the two of you is not entertaining. Seems like I remember Socrates being credited for not making responses if the information is not ‘Truthful, Good, or Useful’ which is always a good baseline for responding to posts. Points have been made by the two of you at least two pages ago and now it’s just a contest to see who gets the last word. Let this be the last word between you as it’s obvious now that neither of you is willing to let this go.
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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Done.
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By Lord Gaga - 4 Years Ago
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The THOUGHT POLICEMAN has spoken!Ted (11/24/2021)
This back and forth banter between the two of you is not entertaining. Seems like I remember Socrates being credited for not making responses if the information is not ‘Truthful, Good, or Useful’ which is always a good baseline for responding to posts. Points have been made by the two of you at least two pages ago and now it’s just a contest to see who gets the last word. Let this be the last word between you as it’s obvious now that neither of you is willing to let this go.
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By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
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It does take away from the integrity of the forum, and I agree with Ted. I have almost stopped posting due to others "getting the last word". Joe-JDC
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By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
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Whatever happened to Socrates, anyway?
(never mind...)
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By Dobie - 4 Years Ago
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He drank a cup of hemlock.
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