|
By Rono - 4 Years Ago
|
Had the left outer wheel bearing totally fail on the dropnstop spindle over the weekend. Scratches are pretty deep and I don't know if I can reuse this spindle. Dropnstop is no longer so I was wondering if anyone has the same set-up and knows what year Granada the spindles came and what type of tapered reamer is needed for the lower ball joint? I'll start looking for another spindle.
|
|
By Rono - 4 Years Ago
|
Just to follow-up I found an email for Dave at drop n stop and he still has some parts including a left spindle. If anyone is interested, his kits used 75-80 Granada spindles.
|
|
By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
|
Rono, how many miles did you have on the failed bearing? Do you have any idea why it failed?
I bought Dave's spindles and Wilwood front brakes as well. Last I heard, Dave was having health issues and is no longer in business. Has his health improved?
|
|
By Rono - 4 Years Ago
|
|
No idea why the outer bearing failed COMPLETELY! I did speak with Dave Gulley and while he is officially "out of business" he still has some inventory and did sell me a driver's side spindle but is wasn't cheap. He said something to me that I never heard before. That is; I should be repacking the wheel bearing every 2-3 years. I have a "Drop n Stop" on my 56 Customline that I bought from Dick Aslett (sp) who was the original owner of the company before Dave took it over. Those wheel bearings have been doing fine for 15 years and I have never repacked them, although I only have 10,000 miles on the car. I will save the used spindle and maybe buy a set of stock Granada spindles and If I need another spindle replaced I'll just take the new and old one to a machine shop and have them ream the lower ball joint mount hole and fly cut flat the pitman arm mount hole which shouldn't cost that much.
|
|
By Rono - 4 Years Ago
|
|
55blacktie, I only had about 4,000 miles on the bearings but I plan on replacing the passenger side bearings, races and seals also
|
|
By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
|
My 2015 Toyota Rav4 had the front wheel bearings replaced twice under warranty. When I had 2.72 gears and an Auburn limited-slip installed in my 55 Tbird, the shop owner told me that unless my bearings were bad, it was better to reuse them, as the quality of new bearings was questionable.
I don't know if any bearings are being made in America. Quality control? However, based on Ted's recommendation, I bought cam bearings that were made in Brazil, but they haven't been installed yet.
|
|
By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
|
55blacktie (10/20/2021)
the shop owner told me that unless my bearings were bad, it was better to reuse them, as the quality of new bearings was questionable. I don't know if any bearings are being made in America?
I'd agree with that 100%. There are high quality wheel bearings made in a number of different countries, the problem is it's a crapshoot on what you're actually going to get.
In the .mil there was an "every 6 months" schedule for inspecting and repacking tapered wheel bearings, at least on aircraft. Probably the trucks were scheduled if any "fording" across streams had been done above the axles.
It's definitely something that gets overlooked generally.
|
|
By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
|
- 1957 LUBRICATION MANUAL - WSM -
Every 10,000 Miles -
|
|
By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
|
Every "10,000 miles" sure - (if you haven't forded any streams) The problem with collector cars, it might take decades to put 10k miles on them. That's what Dave Gulley is referring to. Those lube orders are daily driver schedules.
Do front wheel bearings really "need" inspection and repacking every 2 to 3 years? Well... ya pays yer money and takes yer chances!
|
|
By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Since it’s usually the outer and depending on the width of your front rims I have started using a needle grease gun attachment and pumping in to the outer bearing between the washer and hub when I change oil. I just remove the dust cover to do it. I spin the wheel. I drive about 1000 miles a year in good weather.
|
|
By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks for the tip, DLR; I just happen to have a needle. I used it before installing the bearing, but hadn't considered your method for routine maintenance.
|
|
By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Rono, did the bearing fail all at once, or gradually?
|
|
By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
|
|
No idea why the outer bearing failed COMPLETELY[/U ! I did speak with Dave Gulley and while he is officially "out of business" he still has some inventory and did sell me a driver's side spindle but is wasn't cheap. He said something to me that I never heard before. That is; [U]I should be repacking the wheel bearing every 2-3 years. I have a "Drop n Stop" on my 56 Customline that I bought from Dick Aslett (sp) who was the original owner of the company before Dave took it over. Those wheel bearings have been doing fine for 15 years and I have never repacked them, although I only have 10,000 miles on the car.
Should be good for another five thousand miles easy ...
Every "10,000 miles" sure - (if you haven't forded any streams) The problem with collector cars, it might take decades to put 10k miles on them. That's what Dave Gulley is referring to. Those lube orders are daily driver schedules.
Do front wheel bearings really "need" inspection and repacking every 2 to 3 years? Well... ya pays yer money and takes yer chances!
Tedster,
One thing about you is your continuing ability to amaze me.
The LUBE CHART was shown to demonstrate that yes, old style wheel bearings need(ed) to be serviced on a regular basis. They are not present day sealed bearings where no service is required other than replacement when there is a failure.
Does anyone know the vendor/supplier of the bearings in the DISC BRAKE KIT? Are they like the BRAKE KITS that come through with CHI-COM MC's/valving? Why is it that no one seems to take into account water vapor/humidity and what it can do to a non-sealed component (also think brake fluid and lubrication oils)? What if the lubricant is not of good quality and will not adhere to where it should? What if they were not packed correctly? What if the lubricant breaks down from heat (especially disc brakes) and runs out of the hub and how much road dirt gets into the bearings because of a low quality seal and/or damaged grease cap? Bearing grease also dries out over a certain time period. That is why you service them on a regular basis.
|
|
By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
|
I've owned numerous foreign and domestic cars since 1971, none of which, with the exception of my 2015 Toyota Rav4 (probably has sealed bearings) ever had a wheel bearing failure, and all that I personally serviced when replacing pads/rotors, did not have sealed bearings, the last of which was a scruby Venture. I never greased wheel bearings when changing oil. I hold onto my cars for a long time, most of which having 200,000 + miles when replaced. However, I do live in a mild climate-no snow or salt.
Although I bought Wilwood Dynalite brakes from Dave when also buying the drop spindles, I don't think the one-piece rotors came from Wilwood. I'll look up the brand and post it, if anyone is interested.
|
|
By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
|
|
It's been my experience with 50-60's car that front wheel bearing failure reared it's head when chrome reversed wheel became popular especially on a non mentionable GM car with ball bearings. Timkien bearings held up better better but still need to be watched. The same problem can also happen with rears and very narrowed rears with tubs. When I bought 6" wide fronts from the original 5" I did check the offset to see if I would be needing more maintenance.
|
|
By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
|
KULTULZ (10/21/2021)
[quote] The LUBE CHART was shown to demonstrate that yes, old style wheel bearings need(ed) to be serviced on a regular basis. They are not present day sealed bearings where no service is required other than replacement when there is a failure.
Nobody is suggesting these are sealed bearings so I'm not sure what your point is. It is gratifying in any case, that I continue to meet or exceed your exacting standards 
I'm simply pointing out that mileage alone isn't the whole story, and I agree with Dave, every 2 to 3 years would not be too often. Now at best, on a good day it's kind of a pain in the ass to perform this task, and it often gets ... "overlooked". Ask me how I know.
-----
You know I would suggest the damage to the OP spindle here (and bearings) was due to incorrect installation.
(If you really want to get picky on tapered wheel bearing installation, use a dial indicator).
Nobody does this, because "it takes too long" (supposedly) but that is how it's done if precision is desired. Tapered wheel bearings will last practically forever if they are installed correctly.
Most people (and customers especially) are pretty happy just so long as the spindle doesn't get smoked. A little "loose" is always better than a lot tight.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 4 Years Ago
|
I've always tried to do my wheel bearing twice a year. Just before I put it in winter storage and shortly after I get it back out. A lot of people do not ever check them or grease them properly. Those small diameter bearings are turning some high RPMs.
|
|
By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Twice a year? I'm just slacking now.
|
|
By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Nobody is suggesting these are sealed bearings so I'm not sure what your point is.
That's the problem it seems. Your reading comprehension is not up to snuff. How did you relate sealed to what the subject tech is being discussed?
You know, this is my own fault. I need to mind my own business ... 
|
|
By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
|
I've been doing mine every 10,000 miles since I started working on cars in the 60's, never have had a failure. In the early 70's I bought a little bench mounted bearing packer from JC Whitney, put the bearing in and use a grease gun to force the grease in, so much easier and more efficient then doing it by hand. One of the best tools I have bought..
|
|
By MoonShadow - 4 Years Ago
|
My dad was a multi million mile truck driver from the 30's up into the 60's. He had his way of doing everything but several places he worked would give him a truck that had a few months left and he would get a few years out of it. I tried to pay attention when we weren't fighting!
|
|
By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
|
KULTULZ (10/22/2021)
Nobody is suggesting these are sealed bearings so I'm not sure what your point is.
That's the problem it seems. Your reading comprehension is not up to snuff. How did you relate sealed to what the subject tech is being discussed?
You know, this is my own fault. I need to mind my own business ...
Please point out where I've said anything about sealed bearings. You brought that up, not me, I've no idea what you're on about.
|
|
By MoonShadow - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Sealed bearing have been around for years. They are pre greased at assembly and sealed. In the past they have been prone to failure. I've yet to see them for our cars but I'm sure they can be cross refrenced somewhere. I was just adding my opinion on not using them. Not a big deal anyway!
|
|
By 2721955meteor - 4 Years Ago
|
DryLakesRacer (10/21/2021)
Since it’s usually the outer and depending on the width of your front rims I have started using a needle grease gun attachment and pumping in to the outer bearing between the washer and hub when I change oil. I just remove the dust cover to do it. I spin the wheel. I drive about 1000 miles a year in good weather.
THE QUALETY OF GREASE IS A BIG FACTOR. LOTS OF WHEELBEARING GREASE IS JUNK,ESPECIALY HEAR ON THE WEST COAST
|
|
By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
|
|
I bought a new enclosed trailer in 1997. The one thing I didn’t do was check the bearing grease. My first trip to Bonneville with it I checked the hub temp after 150 miles when I bought gas. They were hot to the touch. I stopped about 75 miles to eat and checked again. Way to hot for me. Ate breakfast first then started jacking up each wheel. Bearings looked ok and we’re made in Russia. I cleaned all the grease out and repacked each bearing with good high temp grease I carried. 25 years and they are still there and have never ran hot to the touch again. It was the grease..
|
|
By MoonShadow - 4 Years Ago
|
During my military time I somehow ended up with a large can of the old dark dark brown wheel bearing grease. I've used it for years. I can't get real confident about the thin red stuff you get today. Last year when I was getting the trailer ready for Bonneville and had to replace some brake shoes. The wheels were all turning fine and didn't show excessive heat BUT one outer bearing was showing heat damage on it. Outer was bad but the inner was perfect. Changed them both anyway and will surely check again next summer before any trips. See guys I actually do some maintenance before traveling. I don't do it all at the race track it just seems that way sometimes.
|
|
By Rono - 4 Years Ago
|
Just to follow-up here on a few interesting points; It may be coincidence, but the wheels we have on the Ranch Wagon are chrome reverse ( to DLR's comment) and the wheels on my 56 Customline are Cragers. Guess it's time to address those bearings SOON!
Also, I would often ride with my wife when she took the Ranch Wagon out, but not every time. I never heard any noise or felt any vibration until the day that bearing failed when we were on our way to breakfast. We turned the car around and limped it home less then 1/4 mile. There was nothing left of it except for the center which I had to remove from the spindle shaft with a hammer and punch. I followed the steps in the video that was posted, but I think my mistake was not using high temperature wheelbearing grease for disk brakes.
Finally, when I went to install the new races in the rotor hub, the race spun in the seated position so it appears the rotor was trashed too. I'm getting a new one from NAPA today. Then I will be doing the other of the car. I can see grease on the back side of the wheel, but the rotor still turns true with no wobble so I am hoping it is okay.
|