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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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I replaced my rotor and cap some time ago ( 1 1/2 year ). Started having issuses with high speed rpm ( just was not running good ) A course over looking the simple check everything but the basic. Finely pulled cap and rotor and low and behold the problem.
So when replacing the new rotor seamed to not be a tight fit as the one that came off. I think that because of this the rotor must move up and down on on shaft causing it to dig into cap. i looked over everything on dizzy all seams good, so I go back to this loose fitting rotor. Went to three different parts store and all rotors seam to be a loose fit.
Has anyone else had this problems, or am I just not seeing something. Where might I find a rotor that has the tight fit?
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By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
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Does your distributor rotor require a spring clip?
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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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i have been doing some read and I think is must. Trying to find a source that i can find one that doesn't require a week of shipping. Any ideas?
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By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
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Might be worth the wait if it means getting exactly what you need. Before you order, make sure you know exactly what distributor you have. Seems to me that the correct rotor should come with the clip.
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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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That’s what I tried to tell each place but they all seemed to not have a clue. It seems it a clip that goes around shaft of dizzy
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By Stiggy - 4 Years Ago
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The clip is fitted to the distributor shaft ~ there's 2 slightly different grooves
in the shaft that the clip attaches to..
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 4 Years Ago
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A '57 distributor doesn't have a clip, '56 and earlier does. Do you have an aftermarket electronic conversion kit? I had one, and the rotor seated on the reluctor ring and prevented the rotor from seating on the shaft. The result was that the rotor hit the terminals in the cap. The fix was to remove about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the rotor so it could seat on the shaft properly.
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By Lord Gaga - 4 Years Ago
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Use some shim stock.
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By 57RancheroJim - 4 Years Ago
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Hoosier Hurricane (9/29/2021)
A '57 distributor doesn't have a clip, '56 and earlier does. Do you have an aftermarket electronic conversion kit? I had one, and the rotor seated on the reluctor ring and prevented the rotor from seating on the shaft. The result was that the rotor hit the terminals in the cap. The fix was to remove about 1/4 inch from the bottom of the rotor so it could seat on the shaft properly. X2, I did the same when I converted to Pertronix, I only removed about 1/8" - 3/16" and that cured it.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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... the rotor seated on the reluctor ring and prevented the rotor from seating on the shaft. The result was that the rotor hit the terminals in the cap ...
...hmmpf ...
THANX! for that info!
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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Hot rodding improvements are so much fun.
The instructions say just install, one size fits all, need no modifications, bolt is..etc
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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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Yes I have a Petronix !! installed
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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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So being the 57 dizzy does not use the clip and modifying the rotor is needed with the petronix installed. Still I wonder if the loose fit on shaft would still be a issuse
But I am learning alot as always great source for help and great group of great people will to help.
>
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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... the 57 dizzy does not use the clip and modifying the rotor is needed with the petronix installed. Still I wonder if the loose fit on shaft would still be a issuse ...
Does the rotor tip hit the cap points at all? If not, it may be the rotor itself.
It's getting harder and harder to find quality parts.
Either STANDARD IGNITION or NOS IMO.
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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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Can someone explain the timing mark on this. Shows 10– 20 —30 .
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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Melly (10/1/2021)
Can someone explain the timing mark on this. Shows 10– 20 —30 .
Not sure what you are asking. The pictured damper is marked in 2° increments with the numbers being at 10° intervals. Most oem dampers are only marked up to 10° but it's not unusual for aftermarket dampers to be marked out further. The ATI and Innovators West dampers that I use are marked the full 360°. For the stock dampers, I typically add a 35° and/or 38° mark on the dampers so I can set the total timing at the increased rpm that all the distributor timing is ‘in’. Depending upon the distributor, that’s usually between 3000 and 3500 rpm. Iron heads typically prefer more total timing than the aluminum heads so any total timing marks I add to the stock dampers takes this into account.
As with any damper, it’s important that the zero on the damper coincide with the true TDC of the piston. The factory spec for the TDC mark on the damper is for it to be 107° clockwise from the key slot in the damper.
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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Melly… I sure wish miss mine was that plain to see. After getting back being rebuilt I had to file in where the marks were. Make sure you paint all the lines white. It would be ez to make a 40* mark now that it is off.
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By Melly - 4 Years Ago
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thanks for your responses, was just trying to get my head around it being marked out to 30 deg. .but Ted did that well. Thanks again.
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