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By Deyomatic - 4 Years Ago
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Hey all. I am new to this NEW site, I was surprised that my old info from 17 years ago wasn't still in the system!
Anyway, I am back in the Y Block game and REALLY rusty. I picked up my new to me 1930 Model A Coupe today, complete with what I am told is a 1959 Fairlane 292. I got it home today and drove it around town and the DASHBOARD temp gauge kept climbing. It got up around 220 and I got pretty nervous. There is one of those Moon brand temp gauges that is threaded into the intake at the t-stat housing but you can only read it while looking at the gauge in the intake...well that one seemed to be showing around 190/200. THAT is where I always used to put my gauge sender...
LINK to the type of Moon gauge I mean:
https://www.mooneyesusa.com/product-p/mpg109lf.htm
WHERE else would you put one- i.e., where is the one that the dash gauge is screwed into? I am thinking of putting that one into the intake so I have a better idea of what is going on.
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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My temp sensor is located in the driver's side cylinder head. There is a threaded insert screwed into the head to accommodate this fitting. It's connected to a SW temp gauge.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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It's connected to a SW temp gauge.
... hmmph ...
Is that the OEM sender or one supplied by SW for the gauge?
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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A lot has happened to the YBF site since its inception. When forced to move to different servers, it’s not unusual to lose some of the old posts, pictures, signature information, etc.
The most accurate spot for the coolant temperature sending unit is at the thermostat. The factory location at the rear of the cylinder head typically runs ~10°F cooler than what you’ll observe at the thermostat location. If not using a heater, then the thermostat location works well for the temperature sending unit. If using a heater, moving the sending unit to the front gets more complicated. Here’s the picture of an intake where I added an additional bung for a mechanical temperature gauge so that the original sending unit could be retained in its original location.
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By Deyomatic - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks for all of the info...
10 degrees COOLER? Yikes. I'm guessing that the sender or gauge has an issue then (seems like electric gauges always are). That was telling me 240 at one point yesterday! This is what's in the thermostat housing right now. I didn't get the chance to drive it today to see if topping off the coolant made a difference. Thanks again. 
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (9/26/2021)
It's connected to a SW temp gauge. ... hmmph ... Is that the OEM sender or one supplied by SW for the gauge?
I believe that is the stock location for a Tbird sender. The SW fitting screws into the threaded OEM insert in the head. I installed my stock instrument cluster sender in the water pump fitting. Overheating is a common problem, especially in early TBirds. It's the most common complaint in our club. I solved mine with an aluminum radiator and electric fan. Tbirds have spacers behind the water pump that makes this issue worse. Casco has a kit that fixes it.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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I believe that is the stock location for a Tbird sender. The SW fitting screws into the threaded OEM insert in the head. I installed my stock instrument cluster sender in the water pump fitting.
Appreciate that. So the SW gauge sender is placed in the OEM bung on the LR cylinder head and the OEM sender is placed on the WP HSNG.
THANX for that!
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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Note that the water pump will be about the coolest part of the cooling system.
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By bird55 - 4 Years Ago
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I am hearing good things about the new Thunderbird spacer that is cast with the area to properly turbulate the water flow. Pretty pricey, but does seem to solve some of the thunderbird cooling issues at idle and slow driving.
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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bird55 (9/29/2021)
I am hearing good things about the new Thunderbird spacer that is cast with the area to properly turbulate the water flow. Pretty pricey, but does seem to solve some of the thunderbird cooling issues at idle and slow driving.
When I purchased my 55 TBird, it had the usual overheating problems associated with these cars. I changed to an aluminum radiator and electric fan. I purchased a wide gap 170 degree thermostat. They helped, but it still crept up in traffic. After rebuilding the engine, the overheating problem remained an issue. As long as the car was moving, the temp remained around 170-180. If a traffic light was extra long, the needle on the gauge would flirt with 210-220. This spring, I purchased the improved Casco water pump. It's a quality piece. It's amazing to me anyone can produce it for the money given prices these days. This water pump made an immediate improvement. My temp gauge needle sits at 170 all the time. If the needle moves at all, it's 180. The air temp right now in Central Florida is in the nineties.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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Along with the CASCO PUMP and PARAGON SPACER (not needed w CASCO PUMP) is another little detail. This casting defect will affect both the BIRD and PASS CAR.
https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/go/38978bd3-5ae7-4960-b749-ae5d7a9bfeb1/downloads/Potential%20obstruction%20to%20coolant%20flow%20-%20TCC%20-%20.pdf?ver=1626635531044
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By paul2748 - 4 Years Ago
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The sedans cannot use the CASCO pump and no spacer on a sedan.
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By Deyomatic - 4 Years Ago
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DryLakes,
Can you post a photo of the bypass modification that you speak of? Does each side get a 3/8" plug?
Do you know the diameter of the pulley? Summit probably tells me. I just have no clue what has been done to this already.
Thanks again.
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By paul2748 - 4 Years Ago
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There is more that just adding the plug with the 1/8 inch hole. The thermostat must be modified too.
I found this out when I did the plug thing to my 56 TBird. With the plug in, when the car starts to warm up it gets really hot - nearly pegged the gauge - got me very nervous - while the temp went down when the stat opened, it is not a good feeling when the gauge is pegged. Not wanting to pull the stat, I took the plug out.
DryLakesRacer (9/30/2021)
In the bypass hose, the intake to the water pump. Add a plug… 3/8” pipe works good with a 1/8” hole. Forces more water through the rad instead of recirculating.
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By Deyomatic - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks DryLakes,
I ordered what I think is the right smaller pulley. Mine is also around 7.5"...new one should be 5.82" according to CJ Ponyparts, or whatever it is.
I had a '55 Fairlane with a 272 in Phoenix valley almost 20 years ago and never had any cooling issues. That's why I was so surprised now. I'll keep an eye on it and play around.
When you say you block off that bypass between the pump and the thermostat housing, do you just put a piece of all thread or something in there and clamp it down?
Thanks again.
D
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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Along with the CASCO PUMP and PARAGON SPACER (not needed w CASCO PUMP) is another little detail. This casting defect will affect both the BIRD and PASS CAR. https://img1.wsimg.com/blobby/...
The sedans cannot use the CASCO pump and no spacer on a sedan.
Paul,
I think most realize this.
What is being discussed in the VOLUTE OPENING in the FRONT TIMING COVER. Did you read the TECH ARTICLE?
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By Lord Gaga - 4 Years Ago
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Restricting the bypass hose puts extra pressure on the heater core and its hoses and is of no real benefit. A word to the wise...Been there, tried that.
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By KULTULZ - 4 Years Ago
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TRUE.
The by-pass was engineered into the equation for a reason.
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By Deyomatic - 4 Years Ago
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I got my new water pump pulley today and it LOOKS like it will work. I will post back. I figure that pulley and a 180* thermostat will get me in better shape.
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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Are you getting a hi-flow thermostat. As once stated a Mopar V8 is the same diameter.
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By Deyomatic - 4 Years Ago
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Is a high flow thermostat necessary if I put the smaller pulley on? Do you know which family of Mopar V8? Thanks again.
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By paul2748 - 4 Years Ago
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These stats are high flow (wide mouth);
NAPA THM 6 (#6) : Mr Gasket 4367 and I think Stant 14177
Deyomatic (10/7/2021)
Is a high flow thermostat necessary if I put the smaller pulley on? Do you know which family of Mopar V8? Thanks again.
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By Deyomatic - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks Paul!
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