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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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I have an Isky Model: 301444 cam in my 312. I’m wondering if anyone out there might have one and if so what your timing is set at. Also Isky recommended a hot valve lash of .015. I assume that would translate to .016 cold, am I correct?
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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I have an Isky 301333 cam in my Y-Block. It's slightly hotter than the 301444. When I degreed my cam, it was spot on so I installed it straight up. I set my lash according to the Isky specs, which in my case is .020" hot. If I were you, I would start at .018" cold and readjust to .015" with the engine at operating temperature. I set my timing at 36 degrees total and run premium unleaded gas. Isky has many years of Y-Block experience.. Their cams and components are top quality.
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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks Phil.
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By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
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Phil, did you receive my pm regarding banjo steering wheel? Although message sent was confirmed, I've not had much luck with pm and email.
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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I'm sorry, I didn't notice it. I replied to your message.
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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That would be the Isky E-4 camshaft which is a nice upgrade to the 1957 camshaft. I have that particular camshaft on the catalogue specified 108° lobe centerline angle in my ’55 Ford Customline with a 0.020” over 272 engine and original ECG heads. The ignition timing at idle is 10-12° BTDC and the engine has the 1957 and up distributor which is using ported vacuum rather than direct vacuum. That camshaft now has almost 200K miles on it and is holding up fine. I do check the valve lash at 40K mile intervals which is the same time as I install new spark plugs and check the ignition timing. Valve lash is always consistent so there’s nothing going on in the valve train to be worried about.
During that first 100K miles the valve lash was varied everywhere from 0.015” to 0.025”. While tha camshaft rumble was more noticeable at 0.015” lash, there was an off idle hesitation that required a larger accelerator pump shot and some smaller high-speed air bleeds in the carburetor. The best fuel mileage was with 0.025” valve lash but the valve train was on the noisy side even with the Thunderbird aluminum valve covers. For the last 100K miles or so, the lash has been at 0.019” which is a happy spot for sound, driving, fuel mileage, etc.
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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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Hi Ted, is the 0.019 lash on your E-4 the cold setting, and thank you so much for your help.
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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All my valve lash settings would be ‘Hot’ unless stated otherwise.
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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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The rocker arms on my 312 have an adjusting screw and 5/8s locknut. It’s a nightmare trying to keep the screw from turning while tightening the locknut. I saw a video of a fellow adjusting his valve lash with just the turn of a socket type wrench. Does anyone know where I can get this type of adjustment setup?
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By DANIEL TINDER - 4 Years Ago
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I have one, but don’t remember where it was obtained. It has no brand/logo ID marking (only the 5/8 designation). Looks like a newer tool though (not vintage) since the handle has a rubber cover. Merely a 12 point box wrench with a 2” offset & 6” handle, and a half inch screwdriver-receiver barrel molded into the offset and positioned directly above the 12 point box. I HAVE seen similar vintage tools with a (‘T’ handle?) screwdriver built in, which must have been commonly available before Ford came out with the hex-head adjusting screw. Try searching eBay on a regular basis. Like P&G gappers, they likely still turn up occasionally.
BTW: How is it you have a 312, but still have the old style slotted screws?
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By Daniel Jessup - 4 Years Ago
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this is what you need...
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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks guys, but I may have found what I’m looking for from Summit Racing. I have to do a little more research.
Rocker arm screws
PRW Industries 1205230 - PRW Rocker Arm Adjuster Screw Kits
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By charliemccraney - 4 Years Ago
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The jam nut adjuster is one of the two methods of holding the adjustment. This requires a wrench and screwdriver (or allen wrench for aftermarket rocker arms or screws). The other is with interference fit adjuster screws, which only require a socket or wrench.
The interference adjuster eventually becomes loose and the jam nut adjuster is best. It does take some practice.
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By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
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I concur with Charlie. Mummert has both types of adjusters, but those/w nuts are more expensive. I think Crane has/had the self-locking adjusters (no nuts) that got good reviews.
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By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
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You might try .019-.022 and leave feeler gauge in place while tightening lock nut. If you can remove the feeler gauge, you should be in the ballpark. I don't mean to be a wise guy, but you do realize you have to use the screwdriver to keep the adjuster from turning while you tighten the nut? Valve adjustments are pretty much a thing from the past and don't apply to most modern cars, foreign makes possibly excepted.Not everyone has done it.I grew up around motorcycles that used screw adjusters and still prefer them to shims, even though they have to be checked more often.
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By DANIEL TINDER - 4 Years Ago
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Daniel Jessup (4/23/2021)
this is what you need...
Neat tool. Eliminates the need for feeler gauges (except initially), at least for the average motorist not requiring ‘racing caliber’ lash precision. Indicator dial works on the ‘screw micrometer’ principle.
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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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Using all your strength trying to hold the screw driver left while turning the box wrench in the opposite direction is a contest I assume you have not yet experienced.
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By 55blacktie - 4 Years Ago
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Helps to be lefthanded.
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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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Believe it or not I am left handed 😊; I finished the job and the engine runs great it’s just such a hassle. In the video I saw the guy did both banks in under 10 minutes, took me 3 hours. I love to find out what he has for adjusting screws.
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By 312YBlock - 4 Years Ago
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Believe it or not I am left handed 😊
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