|
By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Any recommendations on what is good break in oil and what viscosity to use . Thanks
|
|
By 2721955meteor - 4 Years Ago
|
I TAKE IT THIS IS A REBUILT ENGINE.first prelude the engine with 10/30 regular engine oil(with dist out spin the oil pump shaft(counter clock wise) until pressure is up,then turn the engine 2 turns so you can put dist back where you had it. if you had put a moley based cam lube on all the lifters and cam lobes) you are good to go . be sure all oil and water is ready so you can run the engine 12 to 1500 rpm for at least 15 min. while pre lubing remove valve covers to be sure lots of oil at rockers., i am 1 of a few that blocks the spill tubes at the rockers so lots of oil goes to rockers and vales etc
your engine is now ready for a good spin after all oil and water is full with no leakes.
just my opinion but have not had a failure on lots of ys after rebuild. would chang engine oil and filter after500miles,cut open filter will be interesting but you will see some debree so don't panic as all the oil goes threw the filter
|
|
By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Yes it’s a new rebuild and I used moly so no special oil just regular 10/30 with zinc
|
|
By Lord Gaga - 4 Years Ago
|
Check this out;
https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/10/break-in-oils-and-assembly-lube-needs/?utm_source=omeda&utm_medium=newsletter&utm_campaign=Is+Starting+a+Jet+Boat+Race+Harder+than+Hitting+an+MLB+Pitch%3F&oly_enc_id=7809B4488578E6R
|
|
By Ted - 4 Years Ago
|
Use only oil rated for gasoline engines and not an engine oil rated only for diesel engines. The amount of detergent in diesel oil accelerates engine bearing wear on gaoline engines.
Depending upon the bearing clearances, I’ll use 10W-30 or 10W-40 oil for most stock type engine builds. I’m partial to the Valvoline brand but I’ve used others without issue. I’ll use conventional oil only for the break in and no synthetic or synthetic blend oil ever for engines with flat tappet camshafts like the Ford Y. The shear property of the oil is important so don’t use any oil with less than 30 in its viscosity designation on an engine with a flat tappet camshaft. When in doubt about the amount of ZDDP in a given oil, look up the manufacturers MSDS (material data safety sheet) and see what’s there. I prefer a minimum of 700-750 ppm of zinc phosphorus. A 4oz bottle of ZDDPlus supplements the first charge of oil just to insure that there is adequate ZDDP during that first run in period. With engines that leave this shop, I recommend the first oil and filter change at the 2000 mile mark. Changing the oil sooner than this can have you adding additional ZDDP additive that would not normally be needed after the 2000 mile mark.
As a side note to the ZDDP amount in the oil, an oil with reduced amounts of ZDDP simply means that the oil must be changed more frequently as the ZDDP does get used up over time. On the flip side of this, having too much zinc phosphorus in the oil can create a situation known as zinc overloading and over time, this will have the negative effect of accelerated wear or chipping of the cam lobe flanks. There is a balancing act here in having the right amount and not too much. New engines have a lot of metal to metal contact going on so having an additional amount of ZDDP during that break in time is okay.
|
|
By Ted - 4 Years Ago
|
|
|
By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Thanks Ted as always good information, to be honest I have been using diesel oil in my 1955 Glasstop I will change it out this week. For this new engine I have built for my 1956 I will follow your guidelines thanks
|
|
By Talkwrench - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Just use a non fiction modified ,mineral , oil with low detergent and high zinc.. Personally I just broke my flathead in on HPR30 Penrite 20 -50Wt. And for godsake dont stand back and take videos of your "Just started - fresh build " engine so you can hear you lumpy idle like the FaceBook twits.. Run it quite hard and put plenty of load on it..
|
|
By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
|
|
I have never posted a video on line of anything , but thanks for your recommendations
|
|
By blocky - 4 Years Ago
|
|
i use penrite running in oil(zinc) and was thinking of using it all the time after the first change. any thoughts on this??
|
|
By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
|
... suggest you re read Ted's post on over use of Zinc additives..
|
|
By 55 GLASS TOP - 4 Years Ago
|
|
What part of Teds post should I be rereading I thought I understood what he was saying
|
|
By blocky - 4 Years Ago
|
|
yes , now i have read it all the way through. cheers.
|
|
By Tedster - 4 Years Ago
|
Well it shouldn't take 12 hours to read that. (Kidding!!!)
I remember when antifreeze came in a single color - Green, as God intended. Motor oil was a little more complicated, though not by much. We didn't worry about the ppm level of trace elements, that's for sure. I'm going to drop a couple Centrum Silver multi-vitamins down the crankcase. Just a glance at the label shows Manganese, Boron, Zinc, Copper, Vanadium, etc. All kinds of good stuff!
|
|
By panel driver - 4 Years Ago
|
|
Does anyone know it there is a difference between the SN rating and the SN plus rating on the Valvoline 10w40 engine oil?
|
|
By blocky - 4 Years Ago
|
|
yes a slow reader! i will skip the multi vitamins for now .(maybe in the future) always like the humour on this site cheers
|