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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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I'm thinking about replacing the exhaust system in my 55 Tbird and am looking for some advice. Currently, I have stock 57 iron exhaust manifolds with NPD pipes and mufflers existing through the bumpers. The diameter of the NPD pipes is small, probably 1 3/4". The entire system is made up of a number of slip together sections. The pipes rattle and pop as they heat up and cool off.
What I would like are a quality set of headers and a custom made fully welded exhaust system with a crossover pipe. It would be great if the pipes could exit through the bumpers. My question is, what diameter pipes can I use and still get them to fit through the frame and the bumpers? If the bumpers are the problem, I could live with dummy exhaust tubes. Advice?
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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The exhaust system on the mid-Fifties Fords with the real ‘Police’ engine option was 2”. That would be a good starting point. Personally I would go as big as the undercarriage would permit with 2½” being the limit. I have a full 3” exhaust system on my ’66 Fairlane with a streetable but stout 390 and it’s happy with that. That car also has 2 1/8” tube headers with 3½” collectors so the 3” exhaust system compliments that. It was initially dyno tested with several different pipe sizes and as the pipes became longer, the sizing of the exhaust system had to increase accordingly.
I have found no performance benefit on the Y in using a H or X pipe in the exhaust system. Putting an H or X pipe on the Y tends to kill its distinctive exhaust note while also making any transmission or clutch work more difficult.
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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I hear you on the X pipe. Servicing my O/D transmission is bad enough without it. FPA headers look to be the best tube headers. I'm not racing my TBird. It's current performance is fine. Nothing wrong with more power. I'm wondering if headers are worth the price on a street YBlock or should I keep the 57 iron manifolds?
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By Ted - 4 Years Ago
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From an under the hood stand point, the cast iron manifolds will be quieter. On the flip side of this, the performance level does jump up significantly with the FPA headers if the exhaust system is upgraded accordingly.
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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Ted. Thanks for the input. I know it's hard for you to answer this question, but here goes. As you know, my 292 is mildly modified with 57 parts and a mild Isky cam. If I ditch my iron manifolds for FPA tube headers and build a new 2" exhaust system, how much of a power increase could I expect? Would keeping the iron manifolds with the new 2" exhaust make much difference? FPA headers are about $700 plus freight. In your opinion, will I get my money's worth?
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By NoShortcuts - 4 Years Ago
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Florida_phil. Forum member Oldmics has a set of FPA headers on his '56 'Bird. Hopefully, John will have some feedback for you on his experience with them. Vic Correnti also has a set of FPA headers on his white '55, too.
While Ted's observation that use of an H or X exhaust pipe would obstruct access to your o/d transmission or clutch seemed to resonate with you, I think that Ted's other observation was equally significant. You may be be more disappointed by how the H or X pipe would eliminate the unique and distinctive y-block exhaust sound your 'Bird presently exhibits. From a performance standpoint, my recollection of Ted's shared exhaust header tests showed that the historically touted use of H or X pipes in an exhaust system proved to be statistically insignificant in y-block horsepower and torque curve results.
My recollection is that Vic Correnti shared info about the exhaust system pipe size, shape, and mandrel bending used on his '55 in a previous Forum thread you participated in. You may want to re-visit that archive entry.
Hope this helps. 
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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I believe this discussion is relevant to many forum members. Dyno results can not always be felt by a driver. Everything is a compromise. Adding multiple carburetors is a good example. I have experimented with trips and dual quads, both had positives and negatives. After spending about $3,000 to find out, I am satisfied that a single four barrel is the best option for me.
Our cars are set up differently, we drive them differently and our expectations are different. I suppose the only way to answer my question definitively would be to have a side by side before and after drag strip comparison. Since this most likely will not happen, We must rely on input from individual members. My major complaint with my current exhaust system is the noise and rattles coming from the multiple slip tube connections. If I am going to replace the entire system, I might as well upgrade the diameter of the pipes. I'm not sure adding $700 headers would do much for me driving around town.
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By dbird - 4 Years Ago
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Sanderson headers with 2,25 inch pipes on my 'Bird, Magnaflow mufflers. I'm happy with the performance and the sound. 2.25 is also as large as you'll get through the original outlets.
Don
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By Joe-JDC - 4 Years Ago
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I would not order the uncoated headers, especially for Florida. The ceramic coated FPA's for the '55 Thunderbird are over $1200.00 with the kit for steady rest. I have two sets, and they make great power, look beautiful. The ceramic coating will help with heat reduction in the engine compartment and last much longer. Joe-JDC
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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$1,200 for the kit alone? Add in another $600 or so for the mufflers and custom pipes. That's a serious chunk of change for a little more HP.. That answers my question. Thanks.
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By miker - 4 Years Ago
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I've had 2 sets of headers on the bird. First a set of Red's tri-y's, and now a set of FPA's. The exhaust is 2.25", thru a pair of Hushpower mufflers, and a couple resonators. The headers fit well, and the steady rest work fine (makes the oil filter a little hassle with the stick shift). I'd have gone to 2.5" pipes, but my car has a tri 4 bar and coil overs, and 2.5 would have been difficult and maybe impossible. My headers made a number of dyno pulls before I had them coated, and they were really clean and have held up well.
Stan (who makes the flanges, and I think the headers to FPA' s design), FPA, and the guy who does the coating (and did mine) are all local to me. Because of shipping, John Mummert had me buy them direct from FPA.
The hushpower muffler was a huge mistake, way to loud and nasty at wide open throttle, hence the resonators. When I built the 320 cid 9:1 engine (Mummert ported 113 heads)I went straight to the Red's headers so I don't know what 57 cast manifolds would have done. But you can read all about the exhaust test from Ted's post.
The exhaust system is all welded stainless, nothing hits, so no complaint there. All over again, especially with a relatively stock engine I might be inclined to use the 57 manifolds (coated) and a fabricated 2-2.25 system all the way back. Smithy's mufflers have always sounded good to me on my buddy's car, I'd probably use those.
I've never looked at the Sanderson's, beyond confirming they won't fit my modified steering.
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Years Ago
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Phil, here is what 3" looks like in a 55 Bird. I have had 2-1/4, 2-1/2 a d now 3" all exiting in the stock location. The 3 inch was a major challenge but too tight a fit to rattle. LOL
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By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks for the input. I believe I will keep my 57 manifolds and go with a custom exhaust system with larger pipes for now. These days you never know what the value of your car is going to be in the future. We all sell eventually, so it is a consideration. If I was racing my car, there would be no limit on modifications. I would jerk out the rear end, replace it with a 9", upgrade the transmission and go for it. Aluminum heads and headers would be right up there on my list. My car would be a $10,000 Thunderbird race car with a $20,000 motor and drive train. I've been down that road many times myself. Times being what they are now, I should be happy with what I've got and just drive.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 4 Years Ago
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This is only a suggestion and might not be feasible with the limited space under the early birds or maybe you already have something similar in mind but I'll post a couple pics anyways. One of the requirements when discussing the custom system on my 64 F100 was it MUST be user friendly, easy to take down repeatedly. Like, when it becomes necessary to pull the trans or for clutch work etc.. The pipe bender formed these ball type joints right and left, joining the H section. They work excellent and require very little horizontal movement to split the joint. This system is 2 1/4" SS. Hope this helps, JEFF............  
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