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By dennis22 - 4 Years Ago
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Hi all,
After getting the engine running, I had a few starter issues. Some cranks the starter would just spin and when it did engage it sounded like it was still meshed in the flywheel.
I put 12v on the starter to engage the plunger (but not spin) and the starter gear hits the flywheel. I can lever the gear to mesh with the flywheel but it seems the tolerances are too tight between the starter teeth and the flywheel teeth as once the gear is meshed it won’t return when released.
I have had this starter since the rebuild on the engine run stand and it hasn’t misfired once. I did read the an old flywheel can cause a few meshing issues.
Has anyone had any experience with powermaster starters?
-272
-59 truck
-4speed
Engaged
Disengaged
Just noticed that there is wear on the flywheel Teeth on the opposite side to the starter. Could I have possibly put the flywheel on the wrong way?
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By blocky - 4 Years Ago
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yes i would check which way you have the ring gear facing, goodluck
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Years Ago
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Dennis, looking at the second picture it looks like the starter flange has a gap where it meets the starter motor by that allen bolt. Could it be that there is an interference with the block on the other side? I had to grind some clearance on my mini starter to get it to fit and clamp down tight to the bellhousing.
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Years Ago
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Dennis, as for the flywheel teeth wear, the original starters engaged from the transmission side so that is where the wear appears to be so I would say the flywheel is on right and this starter engaged from the side of the flywheel closest to the engine.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 4 Years Ago
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Besides possible alignment issues, the 3rd picture shows the starter pinion is only engaging about half the width of the flywheel ring gear. What you refer to as "wear" is a bevel to help with engagement of the original Y-bloc starter. I have have no experience with these modern starters so I'm not sure how sensitive it is to the lack of tooth bevel. If the ring gear was flipped over, this would put the bevel on the opposite side of the tooth which is worth considering. I was under the impression these starters were plug & play but remember reading in past threads of alignment issues. Hope this helps, JEFF...........
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By Tim Quinn - 4 Years Ago
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Dennis,
Try using a shim on the left side of the starter.
Tim
Waiting Room for Heaven
Florida 33706
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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Not on solving your alignment which you may not have since it does contact 1/2 of the gear. but the distance between the starter gear at the rest position is a lot too much in my opinion. The engagement of the starter gear on the ring gear is not enough.
Many years ago when these small starters were new and were popular for the C word and I wanted one on a C word 1957 6 cylinder 2 bolt bellhousing I had one made by coping the original cast iron starter dimensions. I changed flywheels and had this exact problem. Had to take the machined aluminum adapter I had made off the unit and remove metal off it to bring the whole starter/gear combo closer to the flywheel gear while at rest. It worked for many years.
Strangely enough I’ve built an engine with a stock flywheel and now need to move it back. I’m lucky there is a spot for a shim between the starter motor and the aluminum made plate. Sorry this so long.
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By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
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I've had some doubts about so called high torque mini starters for some time. 1st, all original Y-Blk starters engage from the rear side of the flywheel. Hence they are larger heavier units. As far as I know, all mini starters engage from the front, although I admit I'm not sure of details on the various engagement mechanisms. (I'd like to have how that all works explained to me) A concern is that the flywheel tabs for the ring gear are behind it. So, the mini starter's are engaged into the front side of the gear where it has no tab support, & the teeth on the ring gear may not be an ideal fit.. A potential nasty Ring gear failure can & has occasionally happened apparently. .
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By dennis22 - 4 Years Ago
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Vic Correnti (4/26/2020)
Dennis, looking at the second picture it looks like the starter flange has a gap where it meets the starter motor by that allen bolt. Could it be that there is an interference with the block on the other side? I had to grind some clearance on my mini starter to get it to fit and clamp down tight to the bellhousing.
Thanks Vic, the starter clears but I clocked it anyway to gain more clearance.
Yeah ok, well that explains the tooth wear!
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By dennis22 - 4 Years Ago
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Thanks for the info Jeff! The starter engages further, just didn’t have a spare hand to hold the light and take the photo and pry the gear out further.
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By dennis22 - 4 Years Ago
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Drylakes,
I agree, the starter gear looks like it rests to far from the flywheel. I lost the instruction (or maybe they went out with the packaging) but I can remember the suggested resting gap distance and can’t find the 9002 part number instructions online.
I might take it to the machine shop to remove some material.
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By Vic Correnti - 4 Years Ago
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Dennis I remember the starter holes in mine were very large and I used bushings in the holes for a better fit. I found some tubing I had laying around the right size and used that.
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By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
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This may be way out there. I realize the original starter pulled from the rear and the new ones push from the front. If I was building a new engine I might make 3or4 1/2” weld stiches on the opposite side just in case.
What do you think about doing the welding thu the starter hole? Yes it would take time to get equidistant and proper marking, and disconnecting all electronics, and grounding right next to the work. With all the steering in the way it may take some time but to me better than removing the trans. To me it wouldn’t take much to add stability to the original weld....what do you guys think?
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By MoonShadow - 4 Years Ago
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I've used one of these on the Bendtsen's adapter for years. On my setup the starter is clocked with the solenoid up towards the exhaust. Maybe rotating the starter would help. My only problem with these starters is that they get damp and dirty and often have to be cleaned out or rebuilt each spring. I've never been able to locate the source of the water and have all sorts of extra sealing to no avail. This setup bolts directly to the transmission adapter so I don't need an adapter on the nose of the starter like you have. I've talked to Powermaster about this but they weren't aware of any problems  . They did tell me to call them and I could arrange to buy the starter only without the adapter. I've been using scrub units with the adapter removed.
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