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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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Does anyone have a source for this coil spring.. PN also if you have it. Also is the butterfly welded or screwed to the shaft. Thanks, Charlie
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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You might ask - do I really need this thing? On both of my Y's I have removed it and used an aftermarket spacer in place of it. No issues in warming up. If you have a concours car then I can see the need.
In the catalogs I have, I don't see any repair parts - new units are available.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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B5A 9467-B
B5A 9449-A
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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I tried to buy one recently from two large parts suppliers in western Canada, including NAPA & was told, no longer listed. Concours Parts was listing them a few years ago for about $75.00 U.S.+ shipping. I can get by without it, but then for winter, can't set the choke/fast idle to work properly.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I must have thrown dozens of those things away over the years. Then again, I don't live in Canada,
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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Thank you (all) for your input. My car is not going to be a concours and it does have a hand choke. Im going to move it to Rochester N.Y. and i`m ok with the hand choke. If I go back to the automatic choke. I can live with leaving the heat riser valve out.. Thanks, Charlie.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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I can get by without it, but then for winter, can't set the choke/fast idle to work properly.
If you live that far North and you actually use the car, you do need the valve (IMO). If you rely on just the choke to richen the mixture, the additional fuel needed will puddle on the floor of the intake leading to carbon fouling.
GOOGLE B5A 9685-E and you will find a NOS valve.
1955 BIRD 292 DUALS, right?
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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The spring itself is a bi-metallic deal, and nothing too particularly special. Look for one for a jeep on Fleabay, they are under $10
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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Correct, 55tbird with 292 and duals.
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By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
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As I mentioned, they whole unit is available aftermarket if you find you actually need one.
I have a hand choke on my 54 (312) and haven't experienced any problems using only it on cold days for start up. Unaware of any carbon problem.
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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the heat riser is needed hear in vancouver aria, i have duel exhaust withe 4v crb,elect chokewarms up quickly,no stumbles. have in the past used different mufflers,stock type on 1 bank,low restricted other bank.like preveous moments you need the heat under the carb,along with electric choke
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Either Ontario or upstate NY, you not only have the ambient air temp to tend with but also higher humidity (lake effect) that can lead to icing. You need to heat that carb plenum as quickly as possible (again, IMO).
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (10/19/2019)
Either Ontario or upstate NY, you not only have the ambient air temp to tend with but also higher humidity (lake effect) that can lead to icing..
I've read carb icing is really the main purpose of the valve & crossover. I don't know how true that is. Temperature differential between ambient air and carb venturi can be up to around 70 degrees, so icing is a factor well into moderate "nice" weather.
I went to dual exhaust ramshorn manifolds on my Y, so there is no valve installed.
I'm a little unclear what, if anything further is needed to be done, and what condition exists without one. Exhaust gasses are free to mingle under the carburetor without a valve?
Did the engines that were OEM equipped with ramshorn manifolds have a valve?
Should the crossover ports be blocked off completely if the valve isn't used? Sacrifice a little cold-bloodedness for a better summertime highway use? See where I'm goin' with that?
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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The only time I've experienced a cold weather issue is when I used a 1" aluminum spacer on a B intake, After the initial start and on days that were 40s or below, It would run progressively worse, until it just wouldn't run. After heat soaking for a bit it would start and run fine. Switching to a shorter non metallic spacer fixed that.
Over the past 10 years or so, with the Blue Thunder intake, several carburetors and non metallic spacers of varying height, I have not had an issue. I haven't tried an aluminum spacer for a long period of time, yet. The crossover passages are restricted with a gasket, and no heat riser valve was used in any case. I am in Georgia but it does get below freezing, sometimes to single digits and I drive it all year round.
Since upgrading the ignition about 10 years ago, cold weather driving just hasn't been an issue. I don't even use the choke, even on the coldest days. So a really good ignition might help a lot in colder climates but probably something more than a simple drop in points upgrade.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Should the crossover ports be blocked off completely if the valve isn't used? Sacrifice a little cold-bloodedness for a better summertime highway use? See where I'm goin' with that?
The only practical reason for the elimination of the riser valve is to allow the carb plenum to remain cool so as to allow passage of a denser fuel charge to the cylinders. One would have to live with it while cold on the street or at competition, the charge will less likely separate @ high RPM.
Like Charlie stated, a hot IGN SYS is going to help tremendously (less plug fouling from puddled fuel and long accel pump shots). If a street engine is used mostly as a driver, the valve is important (IMO)
This all changed with heated air cleaner inlets and electronic fuel injection.
And how many times have you looked down and the choke cable was still pulled?
FORGOT -
If you have a hot or somewhat hot street engine, yes, you want to block the crossover as exhaust pulses will cross over.
FORGOT AGAIN -
Unless you actually remove the valve or disable it (wiring it open), do not block the crossover. It was part of a service back then to check and lubricate the valve.
(All of the above is IMO as your results and mileage may vary)
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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Carburetor icing doesn't really have anything to do at all with freezing temperatures. That's what made it such a hazard in the carburetor-only days of aviation. Not as much of a big deal when we can just pull over to the side of the road.
So if I'm thinking this through correctly (always in some doubt ..) I'd want to maybe install some thin shim stock to block the crossover ports in the summertime before a long drive. Or is the intake plenty warm enough year round, once normal operating temperature is reached?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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I'd want to maybe install some thin shim stock to block the crossover ports in the summertime before a long drive. Or is the intake plenty warm enough year round, once normal operating temperature is reached?
Is the engine bone-stock or pumped up? What you are describing was popular back in carb days as it did increase performance somewhat. But the valve has to be removed/disabled to prevent shut-off if the valve suddenly closed and remained closed. One bank of cylinders would have no exhaust outlet.
Yes, venturi icing is a combination of outside ambient air temp and humidity. I have never experienced it myself.
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By Tedster - 5 Years Ago
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It is basically bare-bone stock Y-block, with the exception of ramshorn exhaust manifold. I'm not concerned about performance aspect as just running it as intended. Did the engines with dual exhaust or ramshorn manifolds have a heat riser?
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By 2721955meteor - 5 Years Ago
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Tedster (10/20/2019)
It is basically bare-bone stock Y-block, with the exception of ramshorn exhaust manifold. I'm not concerned about performance aspect as just running it as intended. Did the engines with dual exhaust or ramshorn manifolds have a heat riser?
factory duals had heat riser valves. rams horn manifolds wher only used on trucks and industrial applications.not sure but would think they hada heat riser on 1side. i would sujest diferent mufflers, restriction higher on 1 would give some help.
my application is rams horn on pasenger side,driver side has a heat riser valve.in 1949 merc m47
use the driver side single stock manifold, as it makes a smother exit that misses the steering boxes useing the manifold backwerds give a nice turn down the front
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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I think it's all relevent to what you are using the engine for and where you live. I use the BEST intake gaskets that only partially block the cross over. On my street engine daily driver I want some heat to the plenum so the fuel vaporizes rather then dumping raw fuel into the cylinders JMHO.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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My engine is a 57 312 clone with ram horn manifolds, Flow Master mufflers, 2" pipe, open/exposed air filter and an MSD 6A box. Carb. is calibrated on the lean side with electric choke and the engine never ever stalls. There is no block-off restriction of the exhaust through the intake manifold. There appears to be "some" reasonable flow of exhaust gasses as the red paint is burnt dark on the intake manifold, especially on the left side. Living in Michigan I drive the truck until salt is used on the roads. I think any carbureted engine will be a little grumpy during that transition stage when the choke is starting to swing open and the engine is not yet 100% fully wormed up on those colder days. I don't sit there waiting for the engine to warm up. It's start, build oil pressure and go. If I'm gentle with the accelerator during that grumpy stage I can easily live with that short period by further accelerating through it when needed. Like RancheroJim suggested: It's all relative to your build, use and location, like, your results may vary. Hope this helps, JEFF.......................
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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I forgot to mention that IMO, it's reasonable to assume the Ford Y-block should have a tendency to push exhaust gases from the left side to the right side through the intake due to 2 cylinders firing in succession on the left bank. This would explain why, when all things are equal, the red paint is burnt much darker on the left passage. Is there any other thoughts?
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (10/21/2019)
I forgot to mention that IMO, it's reasonable to assume the Ford Y-block should have a tendency to push exhaust gases from the left side to the right side through the intake due to 2 cylinders firing in succession on the left bank. This would explain why, when all things are equal, the red paint is burnt much darker on the left passage. Is there any other thoughts? Two cylinders fire in succession on the right bank also  .
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Ah yes, my brain didn't recognize end and beginning of the firing sequence. Good thing someone is looking after me.
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By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
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I think that is why a Y sounds so sweet
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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I ordered two springs, different p/ns for 292 55 bird.. One pn is B5A-9467-B which is supposed to be the spring for the heat riser valve. The other spring I ordered was pn B5A-9449-A which is supposed to be an automatic choke spring. Both were ordered from EBAY. Both springs arrived today. The B5A-9467-B is labled for "Choke" and the B5A-9449-A is labled "Heat riser". Now both springs came from different vendors. Can anyone figure out what happened. They are different in size and the number of coils is also different. Oddly enough every picture I see of the both springs shows what I ordered is correct, what I got is the opposite. I'm confused, are you by now?
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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Heat risers were always a little skinnier than the choke ones. like a 1/4" wide versus 3/8" wide. Mines still on the heat riser but I took it off one end and wired it open. There was too much heat going to the intake,
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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I'm confused, are you by now?
I stay confused. Do you have a photo?
The large spring is to actuate the valve, the smaller an anti-rattle spring.
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By 55charliebird - 5 Years Ago
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I got the answer. One bag was marked incorrectly by its vendor. The other bag was original 55 ford packaging. Both springs cost $22 and free shipping. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks Charlie
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