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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I understand an Edelbrock FM255 intake manifold will mount two Holley 4100's straight. I would like to use two Holley 465s with adapters. I have been told an Edelbrock 257 would require side mounting 4100s. I understand the FM 255 was designed for small port heads. Will a FM255 and two Holley 4100s mounted straight work with 1957 "G" heads on the street. Thanks!
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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Will a FM255 and two Holley 4100s mounted straight work with 1957 "G" heads on the street.
The 4100 was a FORD carb (designed by HOLLEY). Are you describing the actual 4100 or the HOLLEY 4150?
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Sorry about that. The carbs I want to use are 4160 465 cfm.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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While the 255 has medium ports, it will work and in fact, it was the top performer in Ted's 2x4 testing.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/2014/01/17/y-block-ford-dual-quad-testing-on-aluminum-heads-part-ii/
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I saw that. Anyone ever tried that combo on the street?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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The carbs I want to use are 4160
Here is a photo of the FM255 with either 4150's or 4160's. It looks like it will definitely take two 4160's.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I think this would be a nice street combo. It has the right look and the vacuum secondaries would keep the cfm down. I tried three old Holley 94s and I couldn't deal with those old carbs. I have a new 4160 on my car now. I'm pretty sure this would fit under the hood of my TBird. Anyone got a spare FM255?
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By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
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I have a FM 257 on a 322" Y running two 550 CFM 4160s. Works great on the street and strip.
Use 427 FE dual quad linkage and don't forget to connect the vac. secondaries together using the lids with the vacuum hose fittings as used on the 427 425 HP FEs!
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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I'm pretty sure this would fit under the hood of my TBird.
The rear carb pad on the FM255 and/or 56 MERC ECZ-C ALUM intake sets back farther than the 56-57 FORD ALUM intakes. Just to let you know.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I assume this means I won't be able to use my road draft tube and will need breathers in my valve covers? I assume a stock 57 distributor will clear?
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By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
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Dist. does, not positive about draft tube but I think it will. (My engine uses the block side filter/draft.)
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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To fit the Edelbrock 573 three deuce manifold on my 292, I had to notch the top of the road draft tube. The back of the manifold kept it from bolting down.
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By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
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I like the use of the smaller port manifold because of port velocity when the intake first opens. This is probably why Teds tests were good. Makes for great street driveability. My dual quads use small base Carter WCFB's and I do not have a hood problem. I would however port match them as close as possible at least for the last 1/2" into the manifold, I like your choice of 465's, the forgotten Holley, and would drive on the rear for the the street. If they are mounted backwards the front one would be the one I'd try. I've never needed to run on both, I found that I had to also idle on the front one too along with the rear and only needed to squirt fuel into the front when the car/engine sat cold for a week. Any other time I do not touch the foot feed during any restart.
Good luck...Any engine looks better with dual quads installed.
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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Looking at the intakes tested, there seems to be no clear correlation with port size and performance. Large and small port are at the top end. Large and small port are at the bottom end. It's probably just a better port layout and overall design, or luck of the draw.
One problem with testing, as Ted has, is that the sample size for each intake is statistically insignificant. It is impractical to track down enough of these scarce manifolds for the test to be statistically significant and probably also impractical to spend the time to perform the testing. This means that if someone else acquired the same casting numbers for testing, but different manifolds than the ones that were actually tested, their list will be different, possibly significantly different. Safe assumptions probably are that the top performers are better than the bottom performers but the ones at the top could be within margin of error and it probably cannot be said, for instance that the FM255 is better than the 257 with certainty. More testing would be needed to find out if there is a trend and that's not likely to happen.
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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (10/5/2019)
I assume this means I won't be able to use my road draft tube and will need breathers in my valve covers? I assume a stock 57 distributor will clear?
Is there a reason You are not using a PCV Setup instead of the Draft Tube?
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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I have read different reports. The H4000 and/or WCFB will not interfere with the 57/ Dual Advance Distributor. The 4160 I am not sure of. Someone either here or on HAMB must have done it at some point.
EDEL put that pad more rearward for a reason (better flow). I bet EDEL was knowledgeable of what was coming later and had he stayed with FORD (MERC), things may have been different (IMO)
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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I assume this means I won't be able to use my road draft tube and will need breathers in my valve covers?
Yeah. why the road draft tube? Is it for looks?
To use breather caps on the FYB rocker covers is sacrilegious ...
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Here’s a Y with the Edelbrock ‘255’ dual quad manifold set up with the inline Holley model 4160 carbs.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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No real reason for the road draft tube. My car was stock when I bought it. When I rebuilt the engine I retained the road draft tube. I plan to change it to PVC. Haven't got around to it yet.
I assume you could install a PVC with an FM255 intake? In Ted's photos above, it looks like there isn't room.
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By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
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I assume you could install a PVC with an FM255 intake? In Ted's photos above, it looks like there isn't room.
That's a good question. Maybe Ted has the setup there?
Also, I do not see a vacuum advance unit on the DIST -
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (10/7/2019)
...I assume you could install a PVC with an FM255 intake? In Ted's photos above, it looks like there isn't room.
Having a PCV valve while using the Edelbrock 255 intake is not a problem. It’s just a matter of using a road draft tube valley cover (same at Thunderbird or later model car/pickup) and using a PCV valve grommet in the rear breather hole of that cover. The ¼-20 threaded hollow stud does need to be cut down so it’s not preventing the PCV valve from seating securely in the grommet. While the center vacuum port on the 255 manifold is a potential vacuum source for the PCV valve, either carburetor having a 3/8” vacuum port would also suffice. Another option is to either drill and thread the back of the manifold for a PCV valve vacuum source or add a vacuum port to one of the carb spacer/adapters.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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There is an FM255 intake on EBay right now for $150.. It's rough and one of the mounting ears is broken off. Can this be fixed?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Edelbrock-FM255-Dual-4-BBL-Intake-for-Ford-Mercury-Y-Block-239-256-272-292-312/283675689294?epid=1860107734&hash=item420c63814e:g:s~EAAOSwAchdzYQy:sc:USPSPriority!34474!US!-1
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By Lord Gaga - 5 Years Ago
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E-Z Fix!
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By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
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Yep. Aluminum is much easier to work with than iron
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By Rono - 5 Years Ago
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I run dual Edelbrock 500 carbs on a FM 257 intake using Trans Dapt adapter plates in my 56 Customline. 
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I was too late. It sold this morning.
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By NoShortcuts - 5 Years Ago
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Phil. Here's another eBay listing of an Edelbrock FM 255 2x4 intake. This one looks like it doesn't need any repair work done on it.
I attempted to provide a link directly to the eBay page, but it would not work on the server involved!?!
Instead, consider accessing the eBay Motors home page and using the search box on that page to locate the eBay item number 113970844127
Suggestion:
Consider making an offer to this seller indicating that he should look at eBay previous sale of Sept. 2nd, eBay item number 323899451287
NOTE:
When you do the search for this previously sold item that I listed, it will show that no item is found. Having done that, now click ADVANCED SEARCH which is just to the right of the SEARCH button you just used. When ADVANCED SEARCH opens, you'll see the number you previously entered. Below that you will see a blue button that reads SEARCH. Before pushing that blue SEARCH button, check the box below it that reads Sold Listings.
Hope this helps! Good Luck! 
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Thank you!
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Made an offer and the seller accepted. Got it!! Thanks for the tip.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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I have some questions for Ted.
1. In the photos you posted above of the FM255 with two Holley 465s, you are not running progressive linkage. Is connecting both carb throttles directly OK for a street car with a manual transmission?
2. It looks like you removed the chokes on both carbs. In Florida, I do not need a choke to start my engine. Is a choke required with dual quads?
3. I see you did not connect the vacumn units like the carbs on a 425/427. Is this OK?
4. Should I rejet the carbs or run them the way they are?
As always, thanks for your help.
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (11/18/2019)
I have some questions for Ted.
1. In the photos you posted above of the FM255 with two Holley 465s, you are not running progressive linkage. Is connecting both carb throttles directly OK for a street car with a manual transmission?
For the Ford Y, fuel distribution is better with both carbs being synchronized together due to the manifold design. You can have the linkage progressive but if doing so, then you’ll need the carburetor with the primaries being closest to the center of the engine being the primary carburetor. If the carbs are mounted forward, then it will be the rear carb being primary and if the carbs are mounted facing the rear, it will be the front carburetor being the primary carb. In either case, you’ll need progressive carb linkage where the primary carb works all the time and the secondary carb comes in later. I trust that made sense. If not, then look at how the carbs and linkage are hooked up on a factory 427 Ford dual quad setup.
2. It looks like you removed the chokes on both carbs. In Florida, I do not need a choke to start my engine. Is a choke required with dual quads?
Chokes are required to enrichen the fuel mixture when cold starting. Gasoline by nature only burns on the surface of the droplets and when cold those droplets are too large to provide sufficient burn area for starting. This is where the choke comes into play as more fuel is simply ‘dumped’ in the engine to provide more surface area. Also working in conjunction with the chokes is the fast idle linkage to keep the engine at speed. Once the engine warms up, the fuel vaporizes into smaller droplets and the extra fuel is no longer required.
In answer to your question, chokes are not necessarily required in warm climates. If you are good at feathering the throttle when first starting the engine, then the engine speed can be manually worked that first couple of minutes of running until the engine can idle on its own. The 427 Ford dual quad engines had a choke only on the front carburetor (facing backwards).
3. I see you did not connect the vacuum units like the carbs on a 425/427. Is this OK?
The carbs in that picture I posted are mechanical secondary 450 cfm units and as such, they have no vacuum secondary pots to connect together. Those particular carbs were left over from a Bonneville Flathead engine that was running dual quads on a Hogans sheet metal intake. The vacuum secondary 390 carbs ended up working better on that 296” Flattie and so the 450 cfm carbs ended up on the pictured Y engine. If running the vacuum seconardary carbs, then I do recommend running a shared line between the vacuum secondary diaphragms so that the carb signals are equalized. The 390 cfm Holley vacuum secondary carbs do work well on dual quad setups and I would recommend those over the 450 mechanical secondary carbs.
4. Should I rejet the carbs or run them the way they are?
Always use the factory supplied jetting as a starting point.
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Here are pics of the Flathead V8 with the 390cfm Holley carbs.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Thanks for the reply. Can I successfully run both carbs on the street without progressive linkage?
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By NoShortcuts - 5 Years Ago
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Phil. Having both carburetors' primary throttle plates open together simultaneously is how Ford designed their dual quad carburetion system to operate on the Ford y-block '56 Power Pack set-up and the '57 E code set-up used on passenger cars and 'Birds. The '56 and '57 Ford set-ups used similar (but not identical) Holley 4000 carbs with a balance tube utilized to equalize the vacuum signal to the two separate vacuum chambers that regulated the opening of the carburetor secondary throttle plates of each carb. The balance tube served to insure that the secondaries throttle plates controlled by their individual vacuum chambers, opened uniformly together, Ford used chokes on the primary side of both carburetors because they worked in tandem for engine start-up, idle, and the operation of their low and high speed carburetor circuits.
Hope this helps.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Yes is does. Thanks for the reply. I am waiting for my FM255. It was shipped yesterday. I may have other questions as I go along.
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (11/18/2019)
Thanks for the reply. Can I successfully run both carbs on the street without progressive linkage?
That’s a ‘Yes’. Here’s a picture of the factory linkage for the dual quad setup.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Will my stock '57 vacuum advance distributor clear the rear Holley carb? If not, what are my options?
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By Oldmics - 5 Years Ago
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Teds linkage picture is for a passenger car.
T Birds have additional linkage because the carburators are mounted backwards.Once you get your setup together be mindful of hood clearance since I believe this setup is going on a T Bird.
As far as distributor clearance - not sure if it will clear the carbs. You may have to do a bit of grinding on the rear carb mounting pad.
Its a trial and error fit.
Good luck !
Oldmics
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By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
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Page 2 of this post shows you pictures to answer your question about distributor fitment. Joe-JDC
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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The bowl of a 57 tach drive strib sits up a little higher in the saddle. That may help or hinder the project. Keep in mind I have a dual advance cast iron tach drive strib which sits lower than the passenger car strib. I'm presently using it in my 64 292 so it's something that could be explored if necessary. If requested, I would be glad to supply dimensions and pics. This is assuming this project is a Thunderbird still using a mechanical tach.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (11/21/2019)
This is assuming this project is a Thunderbird still using a mechanical tach. My car is a 55 Tbird. I converted my mechanical tach to a modern electrical tach when I swapped in the '57 distributor. Fits in the dash hole perfectly. The FM255 came yesterday. It's in very good condition and could pass for NOS. Thank God the carb studs came out with a wrench. I'm going to take some time with this project and do some mock ups before I install it. I have a couple of issues that need to be worked out. Distributor clearance could be a problem with a vacuum advance distributor. I may have to move the distributor wiring to keep it from hitting the manifold. Hood clearance should not be bad with the dual Holley 4Vs. I had triple Holley 94 2Vs on the car last year. Those old 2Vs were much taller. I would like to run two small air cleaners like the 427s used, but I may not have enough hood clearance. First thing to do is order the carb adapters. More later,
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Ok, not a tach drive strib but sounds like there may still be concerns regarding the vacuum advance diaphragm position. I'll pass on something I did this summer with a 49 Dodge flat 6. Someone replaced the oil pump and it appears the strib is driven off the pump and the drive gear must be oriented an exact way. So rather than removing the pump I indexed the spark plug wires one tower in rotation. This now put the vacuum advance in the correct place allowing the timing to be set correctly, at 0* in this case. With the strib put where desired, it was a matter of finding the most suitable tower for #1 and going from there. Just something to keep in mind if in case a distributor needs to be swung around in some unnatural position. Hope this may help, JEFF................
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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That is exactly what I was thinking. Looking at the current position of my distributor, I'm sure the vacuum advance unit will hit the manifold. Moving it one notch and reindexing the wires should fix the problem.
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By Ted - 5 Years Ago
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Florida_Phil (10/5/2019)
I assume this means I won't be able to use my road draft tube and will need breathers in my valve covers? I assume a stock 57 distributor will clear?
The later model vacuum advance Ford distributors clear the Edelbrock F255 dual intake manifolds just fine. Simply phase the distributor so that the vacuum chamber is away from the back of the manifold.
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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
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Great! Thanks.
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