VIBRATION / NOISE


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By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
My Car has developed a Vibration / Noise in the last 2 Weeks. Its a light Vibration with a "drumming" Noise that repeats louder/ lighter. The Vibration is through the Floor not Steering. I have checked Brakes for Drag and Tires for Separation ( Radials). I pulled the Driveshaft Today to make sure new U-Joints were not tight and rotate freely and balance Weights are in Place. Motor / Transmission  Mounts are new and Tight.  The Vibration/Noise is diminished if I shift to Neutral . The only change I made recently was new Standard Mufflers and some Pipe bending. Nothing is touching the Frame. Any Suggestions?
By Meandean - 5 Years Ago
Not sure but dual exhaust at least on my '55 routes through openings in the frame.  I get a vibration/rattle on occasion, usually when backing up in my case, which I attribute to the exhaust knocking against the frame opening.   It's near the front seat, if I remember correctly.  Maybe if you have dual exhaust passing through the frame on your '56 you should grab it and shake it to see if it rattles against the frame.

Again, this is just an idea.  I could be all wrong.  And often am!!
By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
Check your motor mounts/bushings for a broken mount or a cracked bushing.  The engine can move enough to cause the exhaust to touch and vibrate.  Sometimes it will actually sit back in place properly, and everything seems ok, but the engine torques over on start up and can cause your vibration.  Just a thought.  Joe-JDC
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Joe-JDC (7/19/2019)
Check your motor mounts/bushings for a broken mount or a cracked bushing.  The engine can move enough to cause the exhaust to touch and vibrate.  Sometimes it will actually sit back in place properly, and everything seems ok, but the engine torques over on start up and can cause your vibration.  Just a thought.  Joe-JDC

Motor Mounts and Transmission Mount new and Tight. There is clearance around the Pipes where they go through Frame. No Movement in the Exhaust at all with all Hangers in place and tight. Spinning the Wheels off the Ground I don't hear any Noise like bad Wheel Bearing.. Definitely seems to be from Front but not through Seat or Steering.Feel it through Feet on Floor. Strange. The Car I used to own still had the Heat Shields welded to the Floor above Mufflers. This One now does not. I don't know if that would be a Reason for the Noise/Vibration since I changed the Mufflers but it was not there initially after Exhaust Repair.Started a couple of Weeks later. 
By ian57tbird - 5 Years Ago
Have you checked diff pinion and extension housing bushing for movement?
I feel for you trying to track vibrations down. 
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
The Diff is fine. Fordomatic. Should there be basically no Play where the Yoke goes into Transmission? This Vibration is happening when driving at steady speed like 40-55. Under Acceleration seems to disappear. 
By MoonShadow - 5 Years Ago
How about the torque converter bolts? Also if you don't have the later complete circle flexplate the 4 point mounts sometimes will crack or break a mounting point.
Flexplate - Ford 272 & 292 & 312 V8 With Ford-O-Matic Transmission Image result for y-block flexplate

By panel driver - 5 Years Ago
Does it completely go away when shifting to neutral?  If not i am thing maybe wheel or axle bearing.  Make sure wheel lugs are tight. Just a thought 
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
I chased a similar vibration for a long time going through everything, it finally turned out to be the bushing in the tail housing of the trans. It didn't feel that bad but I think it was from the pressure of the seal holding it somewhat. After removing the seal you feel the slop better. After replacing the bushing it cured 90% of the problem, still haven't found the other 10%.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
MoonShadow (7/20/2019)
How about the torque converter bolts? Also if you don't have the later complete circle flexplate the 4 point mounts sometimes will crack or break a mounting point.
Flexplate - Ford 272 & 292 & 312 V8 With Ford-O-Matic Transmission Image result for y-block flexplate


Its been replaced with the new Style Illustrated. Previous Owner did it. I had the Engine apart this Winter out of the Car so I am sure its all good. 
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
57RancheroJim (7/20/2019)
I chased a similar vibration for a long time going through everything, it finally turned out to be the bushing in the tail housing of the trans. It didn't feel that bad but I think it was from the pressure of the seal holding it somewhat. After removing the seal you feel the slop better. After replacing the bushing it cured 90% of the problem, still haven't found the other 10%.

That's Something to consider if I can't find it elsewhere. The Transmission has the Seal plus the Bellows like Dust Cover which are usually missing. I had the Driveshaft out Yesterday and did not see any Indication on the Yoke that it was rubbing on the Bushing as I think it would maybe if Bushing was worn? .
By MoonShadow - 5 Years Ago
Never hurts to recheck the converter bolts though.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
MoonShadow (7/20/2019)
Never hurts to recheck the converter bolts though.

Good Suggestion.Thanks
By Lou - 5 Years Ago
Have you checked wheel balance ?
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
No. Usually if a front Tire is bouncing it is felt through Steering. If it rear usually felt through Seat. This Vibration is felt through floor and Wheel Balance wouldn't explain the "drumming" Sound. Tire Balance would not change when shifted to Neutral at 50. Wheels are still turning.
By Lou - 5 Years Ago
What about a rear tire out of balance or out of round, or bent rim? All would change when shifted into neutral.  Do you have 2 spare tires mounted on rims that you could put on the rear just to see if it makes a difference ? What happens if you go over 50, say 65 or 70 ? I willing to bet it's a tire or wheel problem otherwise you would have a problem at all speeds.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Lou (7/20/2019)
What about a rear tire out of balance or out of round, or bent rim? All would change when shifted into neutral.  Do you have 2 spare tires mounted on rims that you could put on the rear just to see if it makes a difference ? What happens if you go over 50, say 65 or 70 ? I willing to bet it's a tire or wheel problem otherwise you would have a problem at all speeds.

OK. Thanks for the Suggestion. I now have a Couple of Things to check. Tire/Wheels again  and Transmission Converter Bolts.
By Roy - 5 Years Ago
Reading through this string I have a couple of ideas that might help;
1.  When a new problem develops after I work on something, I go right back there first. In this case, you may find one of the new u-joints is bad. Seems like these days you have to suspect even new stuff.
2.  Did the u-joints seat all the way into the yokes? If there's a grease fitting, is it pointed the right way or is it hitting at some point in the rotation?
3.  It's possible that at the slip yoke there's a build up of old dry grease and dirt that won't let it slide all the way in. 
4.  Sometimes new grease can seal the splines on the slip yoke and so can add pressure so the driveshaft doesn't slide forward as easily and can act like the dry grease thing too, but it goes away until you extend the driveshaft again, which happens every time you flex the suspension.
5.  Wheel bearings going bad are like a fast vibration and can sound almost like a train or like running mud/snow tires on asphalt. Especially with the rear you may not feel or hear anything with the tires off the ground.
6.  There is mention in the string about the exhaust being a possible culprit. I'd suggest wedging the pipes where they go through the frame with something that won't catch fire or melt and see if the noise changes. This isn't to "fix" it, just to see if it changes. 
7.  If while you're under it looking, the wheels are off the ground and the full weight isn't on them, you could miss seeing the problem, especially if the axel is hanging down. 
8.  Did anything fight you while taking it apart? Maybe if you had to beat on something, it got tweaked a little?
Hope this helps and you find the issue quickly and it's easy to fix. It is possible that a new issue just happened to start right after the u-joint and motor mounts were replaced, but the odds are against it. I'm supposing that there was a problem causing you to do the work in the first place. If so, did the work change the problem or create it?
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Thanks Roy. I did pull the Driveshaft and verify U-Joints were moving freely and I did re Grease them. Grease did flow to all Cups. I am going to look again at the Exhaust. Vibration occurs between 20-50 mph. when shifted to neutral it clears up and disappears over 50. Because it does disappear when in neutral I do not think the Problem is Wheel/Tire/Axle related. They are still turning in Neutral. I was not having Trouble prior to having Exhaust Work done so thats what I am going to have another look at.
By Roy - 5 Years Ago
Sounds like a good place to start. Maybe just by wedging it you'll hear a change or stop it altogether.
Does the slip yoke go far enough forward?
Good Luck!
By Ted - 5 Years Ago
Check that there is not excess movement or slop in the rear transmission bushing where the drive shaft yoke fits.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
I did have a look at the Yoke when I had it out. If there was excessive Play in the Bushing would I not see indications on the Yoke i.e Wear Marks where its been moving? Yoke was clean. Something else to check anyway. Thanks
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
My bushing was worn but not through to the cast housing metal and the yoke showed no signs of wear.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
57RancheroJim (7/22/2019)
My bushing was worn but not through to the cast housing metal and the yoke showed no signs of wear.

Ok. I will keep that Suggestion in mind. I did find a couple of Places where the Exhaust was contacting the Frame. Not much contact but I guess when Pipes Expand with Heat and Motor Torque contact may be more than it looks like. Going Thursday to get the Exhaust Tweeked for more Clearance. See if that makes a Difference. Go from there. Thanks
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
I am going to have the Car up on a Hoist Thursday so I will get a chance to check Extension Housing Bushing. What am I looking for exactly? If I try and move the Yoke going into the Transmission up and down and Sideways there should not be any movement? Is this Correct? Thanks.
By blocky - 5 Years Ago
i had to chase down a similar noise years ago and it turned out that  the exhaust needed a balance pipe between the two pipes. it fixed the  problem.this may help??
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
oldcarmark (7/24/2019)
I am going to have the Car up on a Hoist Thursday so I will get a chance to check Extension Housing Bushing. What am I looking for exactly? If I try and move the Yoke going into the Transmission up and down and Sideways there should not be any movement? Is this Correct? Thanks.
Yes, move it in all directions. It was harder to move against the pressure of the seal and it was much more noticeable after the seal was removed. And I don't know what is an exceptible tolerance is. 

By pegleg - 5 Years Ago
The fact that it changes Could indicate the pipes are contacting something on the frame or crossmember because the engine is rocking slightly under load OR maybe the drive shaft has thrown off the balance weight. Either could cause the problem. Pipes are the most likely, Look carefully for signs of rubbing.


By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
I had it back to the Shop that did the Exhaust. There's no Contact now. I did try to check the rear Transmission Bushing. Seems to have minimal movement. I don't know how much difference the Seal makes as far as telling how much play there is. Still have Vibration. Seems to be most noticeable between 35-50, Past 50 it tapers off. Still trying to track the Cause. As I mentioned shifting to Neutral Vibration disappears.  
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
57RancheroJim (7/25/2019)
oldcarmark (7/24/2019)
I am going to have the Car up on a Hoist Thursday so I will get a chance to check Extension Housing Bushing. What am I looking for exactly? If I try and move the Yoke going into the Transmission up and down and Sideways there should not be any movement? Is this Correct? Thanks.
Yes, move it in all directions. It was harder to move against the pressure of the seal and it was much more noticeable after the seal was removed. And I don't know what is an exceptible tolerance is. 


Did You find the Vibration was consistent at all Speeds?  I am going to try and borrow the Driveshaft from my Friends 56 which is Automatic like Mine. See if it makes any difference indicating it may be a Driveshaft Balance or untrue(bent) problem. Over 50 the Vibration Tapers off which is why I am asking if You found the Vibration at all Speeds with the worn Bushing.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
pegleg (7/26/2019)
The fact that it changes Could indicate the pipes are contacting something on the frame or crossmember because the engine is rocking slightly under load OR maybe the drive shaft has thrown off the balance weight. Either could cause the problem. Pipes are the most likely, Look carefully for signs of rubbing.



There was slight  Contact Pipe to frame but that was corrected at the Shop on Thursday. No difference in Vibration. The Motor and Transmission Mounts are new and Tight. U-Joints are new and pulled Driveshaft and checked to make sure they are not Binding and are Centered. See my last previous Post for what I am thinking of trying next.
By Joe-JDC - 5 Years Ago
Check your fan belts for tightness, and see if any accessory pulley is pulling sideways, indicating a bearing failure, or water pump shaft bearing failure.  Sometimes hard to see, especially if you run dual belts.  Joe-JDC
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
oldcarmark (7/27/2019)
57RancheroJim (7/25/2019)
oldcarmark (7/24/2019)
I am going to have the Car up on a Hoist Thursday so I will get a chance to check Extension Housing Bushing. What am I looking for exactly? If I try and move the Yoke going into the Transmission up and down and Sideways there should not be any movement? Is this Correct? Thanks.
Yes, move it in all directions. It was harder to move against the pressure of the seal and it was much more noticeable after the seal was removed. And I don't know what is an exceptible tolerance is. 


Did You find the Vibration was consistent at all Speeds?  I am going to try and borrow the Driveshaft from my Friends 56 which is Automatic like Mine. See if it makes any difference indicating it may be a Driveshaft Balance or untrue(bent) problem. Over 50 the Vibration Tapers off which is why I am asking if You found the Vibration at all Speeds with the worn Bushing.
Mine varied, it would start at about 55mph, smooth out after 65mph and start again at 90mph. This is with 3.89 gears and a T85 trans. When I first started looking for the problem I thought it was possibly the drive shaft, it was custom made, I took it to another shop to check the balance and it was OK, they were the people who suggested I check the bushing.

By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Thanks Jim. That's much higher MPH than I am having Vibe at. 35-50. Tapers off after 50. I think my next Step is to swap Driveshaft and see if that makes any difference.
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
oldcarmark (7/28/2019)
Thanks Jim. That's much higher MPH than I am having Vibe at. 35-50. Tapers off after 50. I think my next Step is to swap Driveshaft and see if that makes any difference.
Good luck, I hope it turns out to be something simple like the drive shaft balance. There are trans shops that can replace the bushing if needed with the trans installed, I did mine the hard way but it was a lot cheaper LOL.

By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
I wanted to Update My Post. I had the Wheels balanced Twice. 2 Different Shops. No change. Had the Driveshaft Straightened and Balanced. No change. So after looking at everything including Brakes and Suspension. II took it to a Shop for a Fresh Perspective. They pointed out Something that I didn't see. If the Engine RPM is gradually increased in neutral the Vibration will occur probably at the same RPM Range as 35-50 MPH.The Problem is in either the Engine or Transmission. It does disappear after 50 MPH when driven. When I had the Motor apart this past Winter I did not do anything other than replace Rear Main Seal and Gaskets. I didn't disturb any of the Internals.Same with Transmission. I did not have this Vibration when I first put it back on the Road. The Harmonic Balancer was Accurate and still is. Could I have a Problem with the Balancer even if its not shifted? On the Plus Side this might give Me an Excuse to rebuild the Engine this Winter? Any Suggestions on what the Problem might actually be? The Car is driveable as is. Just  enough Vibration to be Annoying. The only thing I haven't checked is the Converter to Flex Plate Bolts. Anything is Possible but I am sure I tightened them when I put the Transmission back on the Motor. I will check that Tomorrow.
By Hoosier Hurricane - 5 Years Ago
Mark, have you done the latest test with the fan belts off?  You gotta eliminate any belt driven components before you tear the engine down for rebuild and possible re-balance.
By 55 GLASS TOP - 5 Years Ago
Could the harmonic balancer be the issue
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Hoosier Hurricane (8/27/2019)
Mark, have you done the latest test with the fan belts off?  You gotta eliminate any belt driven components before you tear the engine down for rebuild and possible re-balance.

No I have not tried that. Another Job for Tomorrow. Thanks for the Tip. Would a Damper cause this even though it shows no signs of Slippage?
By 55 GLASS TOP - 5 Years Ago
Sorry I was thinking out loud did not read all your post
By ian57tbird - 5 Years Ago
Have you tested it in different gears to see if it is the RPM or the speed when you get the vibration? Have you tried jacking rear and running it up to speed without the car moving?
By 57RancheroJim - 5 Years Ago
Hoosier Hurricane (8/27/2019)
Mark, have you done the latest test with the fan belts off?  You gotta eliminate any belt driven components before you tear the engine down for rebuild and possible re-balance.
There is an excellent suggestion, I found this issue on another car that turned out to be the fan..

By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Hoosier Hurricane (8/27/2019)
Mark, have you done the latest test with the fan belts off?  You gotta eliminate any belt driven components before you tear the engine down for rebuild and possible re-balance.

Ok I disconnected the Belt driven  Accessories. Still has a Vibration. Hand throttle at about 1/4 open and the Vibration begins. I can feel the Fender Vibrating. Continue opening the Gas and it disappears. I haven't checked the Torque Converter yet but if it was loose I would expect Vibration all the Time.? Harmonic Damper would continue once the Vibration started I think? It has not shifted and is accurate.  Any other Suggestions? I wonder if turning the Torque Convertor 1/2 Turn might make a Difference. Again I did not mess with any of the Engine Internals when I had it apart this past Winter so I am very puzzled about what is going on.
By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
If you did not reinstall it in the same position, then turning the converter might be worth a try.  If the flexplate has a heavy spot and the converter has a heavy spot and you get them lined up, it would probably be noticeable.  Mark them with paint or a marker so that you don't loose track of where they were in relation to one another.

The damper is fairly small and close to the crank centerline so there is less chance that it is the problem.  I don't know how you would test that besides installing another.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
charliemccraney (8/30/2019)
If you did not reinstall it in the same position, then turning the converter might be worth a try.  If the flexplate has a heavy spot and the converter has a heavy spot and you get them lined up, it would probably be noticeable.  Mark them with paint or a marker so that you don't loose track of where they were in relation to one another.

The damper is fairly small and close to the crank centerline so there is less chance that it is the problem.  I don't know how you would test that besides installing another.

If I disconnect the Converter from Flex Plate can I run the Engine and perhaps better diagnose if the Problem is Engine or Transmission related? Is there any potential Problem doing this?
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
If I disconnect the Converter from Flex Plate can I run the Engine and perhaps better diagnose if the Problem is Engine or Transmission related? Is there any potential Problem doing this?     


Only trying to START the engine. You have the earlier F/M with the ring gear on the convertor housing don't you?
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
KULTULZ (8/31/2019)
If I disconnect the Converter from Flex Plate can I run the Engine and perhaps better diagnose if the Problem is Engine or Transmission related? Is there any potential Problem doing this?     


Only trying to START the engine. You have the earlier F/M with the ring gear on the convertor housing don't you?

You are correct. Didn't think about that.
By ian57tbird - 5 Years Ago
Could it be that it is not firing on one cylinder completely and it levels out as the revs increase?
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
ian57tbird (8/31/2019)
Could it be that it is not firing on one cylinder completely and it levels out as the revs increase?

I  kind of wondered about that myself. I guess I could take an Extra Ignition Lead and Spark Plug and try One Cylinder at a Time and see if it makes a Difference unless You have a better Suggestion for Diagnosing?
By KULTULZ - 5 Years Ago
Lisle 19380 Spark Tester

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/d63d492c-83b4-45d7-8161-16cb.jpg
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
I don't have that Tool but a Induction Timing Light which I have would work. I went through the Plugs One at a Time. I found 2 Plugs #3 & #4 Cylinder that didn't look as clean as the Rest. I switched out those 2 Plugs and the Problem appears to be fixed. No more Vibration at high Idle and no Vibration when driving. Seems to be much more responsive too. So all my Time and Money spent looking for different Answers appears to have been fixed with $6.00 worth of 2 new Spark Plugs. If the Mechanic at the Shop I went to hadn't pointed out that there was a Vibration even at high Idle  without moving I would still be Scatching my Head. And that Advise was Free.
By pegleg - 5 Years Ago
Mark, 
        Sometimes the most obvious thing is the hardest and last thing you look for. Glad it was so simple.

By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
pegleg (9/3/2019)
Mark, 
        Sometimes the most obvious thing is the hardest and last thing you look for. Glad it was so simple.


I got so focused on the fact that the Vibration was occurring while driving that I missed that it would do the same thing while in Neutral standing still. My Vacuum Gauge read 18 steady at Idle but the Plug breakdown was occurring at High idle Speed.  Sometimes a fresh set of Eyes helps. My initial thought was the Output Shaft Bushing on transmission because there is some Play but not enough I guess the cause the Vibration..Anyway glad I did figure out what the Problem was in the End.