Opinion on carbs wanted


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By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
Hello All,I finally got a 57-up intake for my 56 292.I want to replace the Tea-Pot.I need a carb.I like the idea of getting an original 4150 and rebuilding it.I could also  go for one of the newer Holley 8007 390 cfm carbs.The engine is completely stock.I just want something less troublesome than what I have now.Quite a while ago someone said they got a rebuilt 8007 Holley somewhere at a real good price.55Birdman I think.Anyway looking for some opinions here.I already have the later distributor on the motor.Thanks Mark
By rgrove - 16 Years Ago
I have a 292 with a little bigger cam, blue thunder intake and ford-o in a 56 sunliner.  I had an edelbrock 500 cfm carb for a while, and found it was too big for regular around town driving.  I tried messing with jets, etc. and it was just too much carb - always very soft/lack of throttle response in the mid range no matter what I did.  Plus, my used oil analysis showed a LOT of unburnt fuel/oil dilution and accelerated ring/bearing wear, etc.

Last year I switched to a Holley 390, and the driveability improved significantly.  Also, latest UOA indicates that there is MUCH less fuel dilution and that wear is back to where it should be.  Yes, it lost a LITTLE at WOT, and the intake roar isnt quite as loud with the smaller carb, but the throttle response and better wear internals more than makes up for it, IMHO.

Hope this helps!

By YukonCor55 - 16 Years Ago
I'm running a 500 CFM Edelbrock on my '62 292.  I'm very happy with the performance and ease of tuning.  Price was right too...$259 at Jegs.  It may be a bit more carb than that engine really needs but the vehicle is not a daily driver so economy is not a big issue. 

Best,  

By pegleg - 16 Years Ago
[quote]rgrove (7/17/2008)
I have a 292 with a little bigger cam, blue thunder intake and ford-o in a 56 sunliner.  I had an edelbrock 500 cfm carb for a while, and found it was too big for regular around town driving.  I tried messing with jets, etc. and it was just too much carb - always very soft/lack of throttle response in the mid range no matter what I did.  Plus, my used oil analysis showed a LOT of unburnt fuel/oil dilution and accelerated ring/bearing wear, etc.

Much as I like the 390, and I do, You are the first person I ever heard with a problem that Edelbrock couldn't or wouldn't solve. Most folks like the way they work. Not sure what your problem was, but something was wrong. Not Jets either unless they were not matched to the needles.

By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
Just a question.There is a 450 cfm rebuilt Holley on Ebay for a good price.This was used on the 67-69 Mustang with 289 and 302 motor.Is this too big for my application?thanks Mark
By Ted - 16 Years Ago

Seems to be a misconception out there that large carburetors make an engine run richer.  In reality, the engines actually run leaner if the carb is oversized.  But I’ve had good luck with carbs up to 780 cfm driving around just fine with the Y engines.  It’s just when the secondaries are opened that may force the issue on carb sizing but with an oversized vacuum secondary carb, air flow is diminished enough that the secondaries are either late in opening or will not open at all.  It goes without saying that almost any double pumper carb will give the engine too much air when opened at too low an rpm but a vacuum secondary carb is self-compensating in this regard.  With smaller primaries, air flow or velocity through the venturies is higher which in turn gives a better throttle response at low rpms at the expense of high rpm air flow.  Atomization is also obviously better with the smaller venturies which in turn helps with fuel efficiency.

 

I’ve had most of the popular carbs on my 272 and the 525 cfm Road Demon Jr. is the clear winner.  I’ve run several of the ’57 ECZ carbs (390-410 cfm) and these do not have the benefit seen from the advances that have occurred in metering and circuitry that’s employed in the newer carbs and although these older carbs could be tuned to satisfy either the economy or performance characteristics desired, would not do both simultaneously in a satisfactory manner.  I did run a 500 cfm Carter for a fair amount of time and although it got good fuel economy, it was always touchy when the secondaries were first opened at the lower rpms.  Part of this is due to air leakage around the weighted secondary blades and the lack of intial fuel to compensate for this.  But beyond this, still a good all around carb.

 

As usual, just my two cents worth.
By pegleg - 16 Years Ago
Back before the dawn of time, I had two 500 Carters on a 421 Pontiac in a GTO. Had the same problem Ted mentioned. I do not remember how, but I added weight to the secondary weights and slowed, or delayed the opening. This helped. Actually the Rochester QuadraJet, with it's adjustable spring on the air valve was a lot better. He's correct though with any carb that uses airflow controlled flaps, if they don't seal when the butterflies open you get instant lean. Holley and Demon's method of controlling the actual butterflies, which do seal, Does work better. I have an 850 (Speed Demon) on a Windsor motored Ranger that is WAY too big, yet is very streetable. The quality levels of their carbs are very, very good. What Holley should have been, and wasn't. Angry

By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
I've had a similar problem with my Edelbrock 600. I have a flat spot just as the mechanical butterflies of the secondaries open. I can feel the tension of the secondary spring in the pedal. My A/F gauge goes to lean at that moment. If I let off the throttle slightly and get back in it it does fine. Unfortunately I haven't had time to try to tune it out. The Edelbrock manual says to try stiffer step up springs so that the power mode activates earlier.
By GREENBIRD56 - 16 Years Ago
Not a lot of miles on it - but my 312 seems to really like the Road Demon Jr. 525 (thanx for the earlier tip Ted). The only difficulty so far has been a sticky needle - fixed with larger stainless needles and seats (thanx for the tip Hoosier).

It seems to behave as a large two barrel - primary id is pretty big - with a generous secondary to back it up - but the secondary boosters are pretty restrictive and keep up the flow velocity. The bowls are bigger than they look too, which allows for pretty heavy fuel flow. Gets my vote......got mine as a factory "rebuilt" (warranty return) for $269 with shipping from an ebay store.

By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
I have been thinking about getting a smaller carburetor. From what I've learned in the time since I bought the carburetor I think the 600 is more than I need. I've noticed that the Demon 525's are mostly for engines with cams that have less than 200 @ .050. I've found one that is less than 220 @ .050. Will it be easy to tune it to work with a bigger cam - 226 @ .050? Or may there be more complicated issues? I've also considered the Thunder AVS - with the adjustable vacuum secondaries.
By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
Hello Steve,The response is exactly what I was hoping for from everyone who has answered.(thanks for your input)I think I am going to seriously look at the 525 road demon.Theres one on Ebay now as a factory reman at $249.00 plus mailing to Canada.What was the "fix" that John gave you regarding sticky I assume inlet needle and seat?I am a rookie at setting up these  replacement 4bbls.As someone of average(or less)intelligence are they hard to setup?I have a manifold on the way.What else do I need to this swap properly such as a spacer plate?I see some phenolic ones on Ebay for Holley application.Should I be getting one of those? What is the best one to use?Any other suggestions?Thanks, Mark
By GREENBIRD56 - 16 Years Ago
John mentioned in a old post that the Viton tipped needle and seats were being "attacked" and apparently softened by the new generation of alcohol and additive laced fuels. A sticky situation - and mine were sticking. His solution was to use stainless steel needle and seat assemblies.

I don't have it under my nose - but there is a Holley part number for a pair of .130 orfice needle and seat assemblies (for an alcohol carb) that is reasonably priced and easily solves the problem. They screw right into the Demon carb - just try to match the installed height you found on the assembly you are replacing, to avoid a flooding situation when you start it up to set the float level. I did mine one at a time to avoid a double trouble overflow situation. Both could be installed dry by removing the bowls and setting them in the inverted position - I was just lazy....

One thing about the Demon that has caused me a bit of trouble - it has a fairly stiff integral throttle return spring. This has raised some difficulties with the stocker Ford-o-Matic kickdown system - but a stick shift car would never notice.

Don't settle on a spacer until you have the carb and get a look at the throttle bores - they are significantly larger than the bores in the late four barrel manifold (9425-B). It will require modifications to the manifold - or some massaging of a phenolic spacer to create an adapter capable of "funneling" the larger carb bore down to the manifold size. 

By oldcarmark - 16 Years Ago
Thanks Steve,What is required to match manifold to carb?Boring the holes larger in the manifold or can the spacer be tapered to match carb on one end and smaller holes in the manifold on the other?Thanks for your help.Regards Mark
By Doug T - 16 Years Ago
With regards to grinding the manifold,  if you want to get better performance with the Iron manifold grind the flange area out like this.  Be sure to remove the sharp end edges where the holes enter the "roof" of the passage.  Also eliminate the pinch point where the passage dives down and under.  Your can just see that place in the pic in the right passage.  I glass bead and fill the flange with high temp epoxy mixed with the iron filings that result from the grinding. This has not been done on this manifold yet.

Use a plastic spacer under the carb. 1/2 or 1 inch max performance is a single square hole spacer.  Smoother operation is with a 4 hole spacer and is recommended for street.

These modifications will support over 300HP with other engine mods. And with a proper metal spacer this could probably be done to '55 and '56 manifolds also so that a more modern carb could be used.

By Ted - 16 Years Ago
charliemccraney (7/19/2008)
I have been thinking about getting a smaller carburetor. From what I've learned in the time since I bought the carburetor I think the 600 is more than I need. I've noticed that the Demon 525's are mostly for engines with cams that have less than 200 @ .050. I've found one that is less than 220 @ .050. Will it be easy to tune it to work with a bigger cam - 226 @ .050? Or may there be more complicated issues? I've also considered the Thunder AVS - with the adjustable vacuum secondaries.

Charlie.  The camshaft in my 272 is 216° @ 0.050” with the lobe centers being ground on 108° and the 525 cfm Demon Jr. is fine with this.  There will be a certain point where the manifold vacuum drops off enough that the idle bleed holes will need to be tinkered with and this is where screw in air bleeds would be nice.  But those screw in air bleeds would appear to only be available on the higher end carbs and those of a larger cfm capacity without going to the trouble of retrofitting a non-equipped carb with them.  With the pressed in bleeds, it’s trial and error on addressing idle and low rpm fuel mixture issues with a much larger than normal camshaft.  Changes are typically made in 0.003" increments.  But  if it makes you feel any better, the Road Demons and Speed Demons basically have the same size idle bleeds and I have ran both on a Y with the 254° @ 0.050” camshaft without major differences in idle quality.

By rgrove - 16 Years Ago
Ted (7/19/2008)

Seems to be a misconception out there that large carburetors make an engine run richer.  In reality, the engines actually run leaner if the carb is oversized. 

 

Ted,

I didnt intend to reinforce/perpetuate that myth; sorry if it came across that way.  I certainly understand/agree with your (and others) previous explanations on bigger carbs running leaner.  I was just commenting on how my 500 cfm showed a LOT of fuel dilution on a UOA vs. the 390.  May have been as much an issue of the carb itself as the size...

I have yet to find a setup that is really all I want it to be; for starters I cant really pull much more than about 10 in hg at idle... but that is a question for another thread!

 

By ejstith - 16 Years Ago
I just put an "out of the box" Holley 390 on my 272 with a 57 up manifold. I converted the ignition to a 57 up distributor with a Mallory electronic kit, new MSD 7mm plug wires and Autolite platnium plugs. Fired right up, set the timing and am good to go. Works fine and I never fiddled with anything.
By charliemccraney - 16 Years Ago
Thanks, Ted. If it worked on your 254 deg cam then I probably will not have much trouble. In fact, I was looking at my Edelbrock book last night and it says that the 600 I am currently using is for cams with less than 220 degrees as well. I'm also curious about what makes the difference between the edelbrock 600 and 500 carbs. The book says that the primary and secondary bores are the same, as well as the venturi diameters. An Edelbrock 500 will be easiest for me to swap but if you all are having good results with the demon...

Do the Demon carbs use Holley jets and power valves? I haven't noticed any Demon jets or valves.
By Ted - 16 Years Ago
charliemccraney (7/25/2008)
Do the Demon carbs use Holley jets and power valves? I haven't noticed any Demon jets or valves.

The gaskets, needle seats, jets, and power valves are basically interchangable between the Holley and Demon carbs.

By y-block don - 16 Years Ago
i cannt agree more on the demon carbs they are slick and nice BigGrin thats what wil be going on my 55 vic as soon as i get the intake changed over
By ejstith - 16 Years Ago
I just put a Holley 390 on my stock as a rock 272. I put an electronic ignition module in it with new 7mm plug wires and Autolite platinum plugs. Everything is fine. Started right up and runs strong. Not sure about that electronic choke yet but so far so good. Has enough get up and go for me. I have it on top of a 1" spacer. Tons of torque, but it is a torquey old motor anyway. And it looks pretty ..
By Ted - 16 Years Ago
jbostruck (9/16/2008)
Guru, How did you wire your electric choke on the 390 carb? Reading through this and other threads I find different ways. Some say to the coil others say not to the coil. Others are invited to weigh in on this.  Scott

As a rule, never wire the electric choke to an ignition circuit.  This creates a voltage drop which potentially either causes the ignition module to fail prematurely or just creates a situation where the engine misses due to not having enough voltage to the ignition coil.  An electric choke needs to wired to a circuit independent of the ignition but still turns on and off with the ignition switch.