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By Lawrence Petty - 6 Years Ago
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Just installed rebuilt 292 V8. Added ZDDP enhanced motor oil and connected to oil pump to prime.
Was watching for oil at the rockers. No Oil. Then noticed a pool of oil below the dust cover on the
clutch/bell housing at the rear, bottom of engine. Primed a bit and was quite a stream of oil. Slight leak at valley pan.
No leak at external oil pump and connections. Not familiar with these engines, thats why I bought a
rebuilt engine. Don't want to take engine out just yet as want to see if anyone might be familiar with
any ideas why there would be such a stream of oil in this location. Any help appreciated
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By Daniel Jessup - 6 Years Ago
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Oil at the rockers - if you have a Y block using a cross-drilled camshaft then you will need to rotate the cam to see oil at the rockers. Do you know which camshaft you have?
On the oil leak at the rear - it sounds like you have rear main seal leak. If you purchase a rebuilt engine, that should have been installed correctly. I would recommend you contact the company.
Valley Pan leak - did you install this yourself or did the company who sold you the rebuilt engine install the pan? over the years these valley pans get bent out of shape by mechanics who torque them down way too much. Unfortunately, you will need to remove the intake manifold, remove the pan, and reseal. I would suggest that you clean the mating surface of the block and the valley pan, and then use a straight edge at different points around the mating area to find where it's bent. You could use more sealer in that area if you could not straighten it out.
Lastly - where are you located? maybe someone on the forum not too far away can come over and help. We do it all the time. 
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By Lawrence Petty - 6 Years Ago
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It has an Isky 301444 cam. Only changes to engine after the rebuild was the cam and a Thunderbird 4 barrel intake manifold.
Would assume rebuild would be fine as was done at McPherson college under supervision. Guess I need to get the transmission, bell housing and clutch to look at the rear of the engine to see if anything is obvious. Unfortunately not enough room to pull oil pan as I have a different front end on the frame, so would have to pull engine. Not a mechanic so shooting in the dark.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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If all that has happened so far is an attempt at priming the oil system and the engine has not yet been run, then there cannot be a leak at the valley pan. There is simply no path for pressurized oil to reach the valley pan.
One of the head gaskets could be leaking. That could appear to be a valley pan leak since the oil would run along the pan to the back of the engine. Other sources for a leak under pressure are the cam plug and oil galley plugs. That's all I can think of if no oil has made it to the rockers and valves, and assuming that the block is not damaged.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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i would guess as well an oil galley plug left out or cam plug nothing else could do it that i can think of
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By Lawrence Petty - 6 Years Ago
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Never imagined a problem with installing a rebuilt engine - never had a problem before with one. Things appeared to look OK with the engine. Guess I should have primed it on an engine stand before installing it. So it sounds like I need to take the transmission, bell housing, clutch and flywheel out in order to inspect the rear of the engine. Then probably to play it safe to pull carb, intake manifold and valley pan cover to inspect the top of the engine. Then re-prime and see what happens that I can see. If its a rear seal then i'll have to pull engine as with different front end there is not enough clearance to pull oil pan. Will do enough to inspect rear and top of engine and let you know what I see. Once again not a mechanic and not familiar with these engines.
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By Lawrence Petty - 6 Years Ago
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You probably noted that the only other thing done to the engine was the replacement of the stock cam with an Isky cam. And was installed according to instructions. So don't know if there might be something there. As stated will pull enough to inspect rear and top of engine and try re-priming. Thanks for the input guys as it is appreciated.
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By Lawrence Petty - 6 Years Ago
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Whoops forgot to state I'm located in Farmington, NM - up in the four corners incase someone near by is familiar with the Y-Blocks.
Sure getting ribbing from friends that I didn't drop in a more modern 302 and automatic. However like the sound of the Y-Blocks and the wife liked the 3 on the tree with OD as that's what she was brought up with. And just kind of wanted to stay partly old stock. Thanks again.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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you should be able to see behind the flywheel just by taking of the pan and looking up while someone primes the pump.should be able to see where its coming from.
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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I have the same cam in my engine. I love it.
Don't panic. There could be a lot of things going on here other than a rear seal leak. I thought I had a bad rear seal and it turned out to be a leaky oil pump. The lack of oil to the top end is troublesome. Address that first. Take the valve covers off. Remove the distributor. Put a 1/4" socket and extension on the oil pump drive shaft. You will be able to see it down in the hole when you take the distributor out. Turn the oil pump drive shaft counter clockwise with a speed wrench. DON'T DROP THE SOCKET INTO THE ENGINE. You should be able to see oil coming up to the rockers. Do you have oil pressure? I cut the groove in my cam to .030" and I have lots of oil. If you can't get oil to the heads, you have bigger problems than a bad seal. The oil could very easily be coming out of the rear of the valley tray or valve covers. It's also possible the engine builder left out a block plug. Look around and you will find the leak.
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By MoonShadow - 6 Years Ago
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Are you in touch with the rebuilder? Did you get the motor back assembled or did you put it together?
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By Lawrence Petty - 6 Years Ago
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Stripped down to back of engine. Appears to be two open threaded holes about even with the crank low and one almost on top of the other on the drivers side of engine leaking. Not plugged and appears the lower was may be leaking as has oil on threads. Both holes are open to the cavity behind them. Cannot find a picture when searching as to what these holes are and whether they should be plugged. Can anyone tell me and let me know if I should plug them and with what.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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who rebuilt your engine.all you need is 2 plugs and your set to go.forget what size they are will check
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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They are oil galley plugs. That is a pretty big oversight.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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cant find one ted or someone will come on with that info.
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By MoonShadow - 6 Years Ago
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That is a stupid mistake even for a shop that doesn't know Y-Blocks. How long has the engine been run? I would certainly make some demands on the shop owner. If the help can forget oil galley plugs they can screw up anything. At least I think they should do a complete teardown and check for you. If not I'd demand my money back.
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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Without those plugs your engine's oil pressure was compromised at start up. If you assembled the engine, you should have noticed the open holes when you primed the oil pump. If the machinist delivered an assembled engine to you, he needs to be held accountable.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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the engine has never been run
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By Florida_Phil - 6 Years Ago
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Thank's good. Put the plugs in and prime the oil pump by hand or with a drill. You should have oil pressure and oil to the rockers. If not, keep looking.
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By bergmanj - 6 Years Ago
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And, don't forget to check the galleys for plugs at both ends, front and REAR [inside bell housing], too!!!
Geeze, that's a terrible "mistake" to make on the part of the assembler.
Regards, JLB
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By Lord Gaga - 6 Years Ago
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It might make you wonder what other mistakes he made? I'd give the guy
'the 3rd degree' and get a written full warranty before I'd start the engine!!!
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