Triple Deuce 1955 Thunderbird


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By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I heard from Charlie at Vintage Speed.  He's been inundated with work lately and wasn't been able to get back to me.  We discussed the three Holley 94s I sent him.  I bought these on EBay along with an Edelbrock 573 intake manifold a few months ago. He asked a lot of questions about my car and what I was expecting.  He recommended rebuilding my Holley 94s and having them set up properly for a tri-carb setup with good linkage.  We arrived at a price and I pulled the trigger.  He called me Friday and said my carbs look like new and they are being shipped on Monday.

I am planning to post my progress on this forum.  My current motor runs great with a single Holley 4V.   I don't expect the tri power to increase the performance.  I want to see if it's possible to run this setup on my TBird without sacrificing drive ability. 

As soon as I receive my carbs from Charlie, I will post photos of my progress.
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
Multiple carbs should not change a thing as you will still be driving 99% of the time on a 2 barrel carb just like the front of your 4 barrel.
My experience so far has been opening it up every once in a while to get gas flow thru the needles and seat of the not used carbs. Engine vibration will allow some seepage thru those needles and seats. For me there 3 extra with dual quads but it's the same.

Are going to idle on all 3 or just the center one? If the center only, take the time to set the idle adjustment screw on the outside ones to allow the butterflies to just touch and not sit tight so they stick..Good Luck and please show us some photos.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Charlie recommends setting up the end carbs as dumpers. He leaves the end carb idle screws in place so you can unscrew them a bit if your cam needs it.  We'll see how this goes. I'll post some photos and hopefully some videos. 
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I received my EBay Holley 94s back from Charlie at Vintage Speed today.  They look like new.  They were powder coated and rebuilt with new bases, shafts and screws. The chokes were removed and the holes blocked in the end carbs.   I also ordered his linkage, fuel lines, pressure gauge and fuel pressure regulator.  I assembled the parts on my bench.  Here's a pic.  A few more parts required and I can bolt them on.  I expect this to take some time to sort out.  We'll see.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/15c89955-6a20-4ae0-b360-0ccc.jpg
By paul2748 - 5 Years Ago
If you have any idling problems, pull the end carbs, add block off plates and dial in the carb by itself.
By miker - 5 Years Ago
I agree with Paul and DLR. But based on my experience with Mr Price (almost 20 years ago) if it doesn’t run pretty close, check everything else before you question his work. He was really spot on then, and I doubt he’s forgotten much.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Charlie has been very helpful.  He's not the kind of guy that talks your head off just to pass the time.  He is very knowledgeable.  He told me they test all their carbs on a running motor.  I have to route the fuel pump line and the regulator.  I love his linkage.  Very robust and infinitely adjustable. 
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
If you decide your going to use all three to idle buy a Uni-Syn carb synchronizer from Summit or similar supplier. They are for 2 barrels and I've made adapters for my small top 4 barrels/Holley style 2 & 4 barrels  and would not be without it. A friend has 2-2's Strombergs on his flathead and does the same thing. A perfect idle just makes you a happy guy.

I also agree with blocking off the ends as a start up to get it "happy" first  if your not going to use the outers to idle. Good Luck
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Good tip.  How does a Uni-Syn carb synchronizer work?  Thanks!
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
By vacuum. The photo has mine bolted and gasket end to adapter on a large 4 barrel cover and then sealed to a small base 4 barrel. The engine is not running, but when it does the "red" ball in the tube rises. You set your carbs so they all read the same at idle using idle speed and your mixture screws.
This for idle. Acceleration and top end is another can of worms... I believe they are all thru Edelbrock today.. Good luck.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Florida_Phil (3/22/2019)
I received my EBay Holley 94s back from Charlie at Vintage Speed today.  They look like new.  They were powder coated and rebuilt with new bases, shafts and screws. The chokes were removed and the holes blocked in the end carbs.   I also ordered his linkage, fuel lines, pressure gauge and fuel pressure regulator.  I assembled the parts on my bench.  Here's a pic.  A few more parts required and I can bolt them on.  I expect this to take some time to sort out.  We'll see.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/15c89955-6a20-4ae0-b360-0ccc.jpg

Hey Phil. I sent U a PM asking for some Information. Let Me know if U did not get it? Thanks
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I starting the installation of the three deuce setup on my TBird today.  The first thing I ran into was a clearance issue between the back of the Edelbrock 573 intake manifold and the road draft tube. I notched the tube and am in the process of test fitting.  I worked out the linkage on the bench.  It looks good.  One thing I have noticed is the throttle springs in the end carbs seem very heavy to me.  This may increase the effort during driving.  Time will tell.  This is going to be a long process.

Hood clearance is not as bad as I suspected.  The problem is with the front carb, not the rear as I originally thought.  I'll run some small screen filters at first then, upgrade when I have things sorted out.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Here's the road draft tube modified for clearance with the Edelbrock intake.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/8afa92e5-910c-4541-82d9-7871.jpg
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Intake installed.  Carbs and Fuel next.

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/24277be0-4fc8-493f-b798-a71b.jpg
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
It's been a fun day. Charlie's progressive linkage is very adjustable.   Had some clearance issues with the TBird overdrive throttle linkage.  Solved it by swapping the slider to the front carb.  Fuel and regulator are connected up. Tomorrow I have to figure out what to do with the coil.  Probably mount it on the firewall.  After that, I'll fire this thing up and see what happens. Stay tuned. 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/c0778f0d-fa84-450a-afa8-7f75.jpg
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
Keep the Pictures coming. What are You using for a Fuel Filter? I got your PM Thanks
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I am not running a fuel filter at the moment.  I installed a new fuel tank about 3-4 months ago.  So far no fuel issues.  I'll probably put a filter in after I get things sorted out.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
It's alive!!   I had a little trouble with the fuel lines at first.  After a little persuasion... no leaks.   The idle seems stable with no black smoke.  Stab all three carbs and it's 5,000 RPM right now.    I can't drive the car as I have no air filters.  They're on the way.  I also need to build a coil bracket.  Can't wait for cruise night.


By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
Awesome.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
By DryLakesRacer - 5 Years Ago
Looks great.....2 photos of my coil mount:
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/8fca2e15-20fa-4586-ab30-792d.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/ab195c6d-694a-4054-8702-fee2.jpg
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
Thanks for the photo.  My coil bracket is similar only it's bolted to the intake manifold studs.  It's rough right now, but it works.  I plan on cleaning it up as time goes on.  I had a problem with my primary carburetor.  I took it to Charlie and he fixed it right away.  He and his wife are nice people.  Vintage Speed is a family business.  He's got more old carbs than I have ever seen in one place before.  He knows his stuff.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I'm running into an issue with my down draft tube.  The Edelbrock 573 intake covers up most of the hole where the draft tube bolts into the valley cover. I notched the top of the down draft tube, but it's still touching. Can I remove the down draft tube?   How do I vent the engine? Will I need valve cover breathers?
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
You could install a PCV where the Road Draft Tube is now if it doesn't interfere with the Manifold.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
The 573 manifold covers nearly half of the down draft hole in the valley pan.  I believe I will have to block off this hole and install valve covers with breathers. I can't think of any other option.  Do I need to do this?  Would the stock breather in the front of the valley pan be enough to vent the engine?
By Hoosier Hurricane - 5 Years Ago
You need a draft tube or a PCV to force ventilation through the crankcase.  Valve cover breathers won't do that.  If you have no forced draft, you will continually be fighting oil vapor coming out of the breather cap and oiling the top of your pretty engine.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
.
Florida_Phil (4/5/2019)
The 573 manifold covers nearly half of the down draft hole in the valley pan.  I believe I will have to block off this hole and install valve covers with breathers. I can't think of any other option.  Do I need to do this?  Would the stock breather in the front of the valley pan be enough to vent the engine?

On Passenger Cars the Road Draft Tube is on the lower Part of the Block. I assume on T-Birds its not because of ground clearance Issues? Is there anyway to use a Passenger Car Tube on the T Bird Engines? Or is there a way to install a PCV System instead of Road Draft Tube. What are others who have a 3 x 2 setup using for Ventilation?
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
"What are others who have a 3 x 2 setup using for Ventilation?"

Good question.  Anyone else running an Edelbrock 573?  I'm pretty sure this bridge has been crossed before.
By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
Breathers should work ok.  Some device that puts a vacuum on the crankcase like road draft (but only while moving) or pcv would be best but breathers are tried and true.
By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
I ran FE motors for years without a PVC.   All we had was the front oil fill breather and one tall breather in the back of the intake.  I hate cutting up good set of Thunderbird valve covers.  Sounds like a good use for some cheap EBay covers.
By Dave C - 5 Years Ago
Why could you not use a PVC that connects in line with the hose? I know there are engines that use a PVC that screwed into the base of the carb with a hose running to the valve cover.
A 90* fitting in the valley cover short enough to clear the intake to connect to the PVC and then on to a carb should work.

LOL, I plead guilty and I know better.. I call the PVC like most people, but when researching a bit I rediscover that they are PCV valves and really have nothing to do with polution control. They are for crankcase ventilation. Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV)
Dave
By Dave C - 5 Years Ago
Doing a little searching I came across this as an idea.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Booster-Fitting-For-Vacuum-Pumps-3-8th-Inch-Hose-Unpolished-USA/202587184650?hash=item2f2b231e0a:g:OEUAAOSwVFlT3Zfs

Use this fitting (or one like it) in the valley pan, connect a hose from it to a pcv then hose from pcv to carb.
Problem solved.

Dave

By Florida_Phil - 5 Years Ago
How do I plumb the PVC line into three Holley 94s?  There are ports in the manifold under full vacuum. 
By charliemccraney - 5 Years Ago
You would need to drill and tap the manifold for a vacuum fitting or use a spacer with a vacuum fitting.  The ideal location for that is the center carb.
By oldcarmark - 5 Years Ago
If You are already tight for space height wise a Spacer won't work. Drill and Tap is the other Option.
By '49 bomb! - 4 Years Ago
I had an issue with finding extra
Vacuum ports for my trips setup.
I needed 4- ports. 1- brake booster.
2- pcv. 3- trans.4- distributor. I used
The port under ctr. And front carb.
I made a 4- way port of 1/2" copper
Very easy to solder....
By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
Dave C. It's not quite correct to say  a PCV setup has nothing to do with pollution control.  Along with providing  positive crankcase venting, it recirculates fumes thru the engines intake system, rather than venting them directly to the atmosphere..  
By PF Arcand - 4 Years Ago
As "Mark" suggested, check to see if it's feasible to put a passenger car lower crank case breather canister or similar setup on the left side of  the block? U might have to shorten the downtube somewhat, maybe .? Or would it be feasible to grind the intake slightly to fit ?.. A PVC setup would be good normally, but with your 3 carb setup. it could get complicated.. 
P.S.- obviously Edelbrock never intended their Intake to be installed on Birds.. 
By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
The biggest problem with running trips on a '55 TBird is hood clearance.  I was able to get them to work with screens in the carbs.  Most air cleaners wouldn't fit.
By DryLakesRacer - 4 Years Ago
My 56 is a factory open system. After driving in the garage it did have an oil odor. At idle at a signal I could also smell it. I put an oil breather cap with a 1/2” hose fitting on it and the other end into the bottom of the air cleaner with a 90* PVC fitting aiming at the front of the carb. No more smell and the side breather is still there is never wet or drips. I clean it at every oil change.
I’m sure I’m helping the environment.
By Florida_Phil - 4 Years Ago
As I remember, "S" code 390s were vented through a fitting on the side of the air cleaner. .
By 30 coupe - 4 Years Ago
I will try one more time to post pictures of how I ran my tri-power PCV valve on an Edelbrock intake.
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/64415b2b-3ecb-4595-8cf8-389a.jpg 

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/43d20fc9-c656-4e89-9dd2-21e3.jpg 
By Drexel - 3 Years Ago
I'm working through some of the same issues with my tri-power install and would like to ask a couple questions. My 573 manifold also interferes with the road draft tube and figure I will modify some type of fitting so I can use that same opening and then a flexible piece of tubing to connect to the valve.  My 573 has a bung at the back I am using for the PCV valve and am curious if yours did not havehttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a3d17cbd-9c0b-4ac0-b523-3045.jpg this port. My other question is; where did you connect for the distributor vacuum advance?
By KULTULZ - 3 Years Ago
My 573 has a bung at the back I am using for the PCV valve and am curious if yours did not have


That vacuum signal port is positioned the same as the 1957 ECZ-9425-B 4V OEM intake. That port signal is for a brake booster and/or dual stage fuel pump. If used as a PCV inlet, you will experience fume/vapor load-up in the rear cylinders. The vacuum source should be at the carb plenum pad shown below between front and center carb (IMO).

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/9412f0a2-2a19-4426-b14f-9efe.jpg
By Drexel - 3 Years Ago
Thank you for the answer on the vacuum ports. Having owned several Y-Block powered trucks, none of them used that rear port any accessory. Makes sense to use the plenum port for PCV valve.
By DryLakesRacer - 3 Years Ago
This is what I had to do for the breather rear PVC part used from 61-64 to work with a dual quad 257 Edelbrock manifold.
By paul2748 - 3 Years Ago
email the picture to me and I'll try to post it for you.  Click on my name for email address

30 coupe (8/15/2020)
for some reason I can not get them to post


By 30 coupe - 3 Years Ago
Ted contacted me, and I sent him the pictures ( at least I think I sent the same pictures as I tried to post).  He said he would post them.  If he does not in a few days I will send them to you.  Thank you.--  Jim
By KULTULZ - 3 Years Ago
That separator mod is FIRST CLASS!

Here are some more random photos that may be of help -



http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/a0df8cce-11e5-4229-8765-890b.jpg

http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/549ca7e2-6615-4963-b231-0bf2.jpg


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/824f1599-9ba8-400a-bb9e-c17c.jpg



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