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By bergmanj - 6 Years Ago
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Folks,
I've tried searching for the info., but unable to find it so far (poor internet connection here): I'm looking for the information on how to "modify" the spin-on oil filter adapter plate to eliminate leaks around outer edge (somehow "spring" it out more); as mine on my newly rebuilt and now installed motor had a leak when out of the car, was "fixed" and now again leaks in the car. I need to now crawl under, remove, "fix" (again), and re-install (now in unheated shelter in northern MN [COLD!!!!]).
Can someone provide the link or direct info. in this regard?
Thanks & regards, JLB
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By Ted - 6 Years Ago
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See if this helps.
http://www.y-blocksforever.com/tech/html/oil_filter.html
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By 2721955meteor - 6 Years Ago
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i used teds fix,but also dried holes opeset slot to even the presure on cold starts. some concerns re oil drain back when engine stopped,well i use fram filters that have a built in check. when plate is straight the filter if tight should help the seal on adaptor. i also glued adaptor seal to adaptor.
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By Cliff - 6 Years Ago
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Take it apart, install the gasket dry no sealant.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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I just purchased One of the Handmade Spun Aluminum Adapters on Ebay. I had One on the Car I sold. These were not available for awhile as the Seller did not have the Threaded Center Piece available from His Supplier. Item # 254013652179. Not Cheap but a Quality Item. I went to a lot of Trouble to pull the Engine and Transmission to fix Oil Leaks. This Adapter should eliminate one Potential Leak in the Future.
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By DryLakesRacer - 6 Years Ago
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Is it an original Ford or an aftermarket?...... I read about aftermarket leaking and found an original on Sleez-bay and it has never leaked.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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you can do everything right and they can still leak.i must have put on about 6 and half leaked.if at first you dont suceed try again.
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By bergmanj - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks everyone. The info. I was looking for was mainly what Ted posted; the other info is also helpful!
Regards, JLB
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By bergmanj - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks everyone. The info. I was looking for was mainly what Ted posted; the other info is also helpful!
Regards, JLB
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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After two of the adapters leaked, I went back to the canister. No more leaks
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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Why do they usually leak? Does it have anything to do with overtightening the filters?. Some people insist on ignoring the manufacturer's instructions, when installing a filter ..
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By FORD DEARBORN - 5 Years Ago
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Here I go with my $.02 worth again but please stay with me. I think the filter adapters are getting too old to perform their job. That is, the steel is loosing some of its memory after 50 years of constant tension and thousands of heat cycles. With the adapter placed on a flat surface there should be a gap from the center section that contacts the engine block and the flat surface it's placed on. The more the better. This is what establishes the applied pressure against the gasket and if some or all of the "cup" is lost, then so is the sealing no mater how tight the center hold-down is tightened. Some say use no sealer on the gasket. My last build I chose the thickest gasket I could find from all the loose gaskets and used no sealer and no leaks, this time. Oldcarmark found what looks like the answer to this problem. If I had known of this turned adapter I would have bought one in a heart beat. Well, next time. Hope this helps, JEFF.........................................
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By bergmanj - 5 Years Ago
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Spin-on oil filter adapter Leak Fixed!!!
Two things: 1. The soft rubbery gasket supplied with the kit from Mac's "squished" out from between the adapter plate and block; I replaced it with the gasket from a FelPro gasket kit (this gasket was semi-hard rubberized fiber) which "held" it's place.
2. I took Ted's info on "whacking" the adapter so that there was a slight clearance between the block boss and center adapter hole with adapter into place [without gasket!!!]. Thanks Ted!
Between these two details, NO oil system leaks and finally running for first time: Started-up right away and SOUNDS NICE, with NO "unusual" noises present so far; also, 40 PSIG oil pressure at full temp "idling" at ~ 1,000 RPM using Shell 15W-40 (with the higher ZZDP). This is on a "refurbished" (not rebuilt with totally new everything) 292 bored over to 297 CID with "used" (but very good shape) ECZ-G factory heads, an ECZ-B intake manifold with an Edelbrock 1405 carb., and the "used" '57 312 factory "high-lift" cam with it's matching factory lifters. So far -- so good.
I do still have a very slight coolant leak at the thermostat bypass connection to the top of water pump and am hoping that this may "go away" with a heat-cycle or two (I've had that happen a couple of times before over the years). Otherwise, no big deal to "fix", if need be; just another small "pain".
One other issue now: I need my "dual action" fuel pump rebuilt: Another post in that regard.
Regards, JLB
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