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By geo56 - 6 Years Ago
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I am a little irritated and concerned with the position of my brake pedal in my 56 victoria with manual brakes . All brake components including lines were replace at a rebuild about 10 years 40,000 miles ago. At the time I had a friend help me bleed the system with him pumping the pedal and me opening the bleeder fittings. At the time I settled for about 2 inches of travel on the pedal no matter how much we bled the system. I have always compensated by pumping the pedal 3 times quickly and got a taller pedal as a result. Master cylinder seems ok as the pedal does not sink to the floor with constant pressure. I see no leaks at the master or wheel cylinders and the car stops fine without pulling to one side or squealing. A couple weeks ago I bought a self bleeding tool that sucks the fluid from each cylinder one at a time and saw no improvement if I didn,t make it a little worse. I also raised the car on all fours and adjusted the shoes to drag on each drum perhaps more than I think they should and I still have to give the pedal 3 quick pumps to get the pedal height that feels safe. Any advice will be appreciated . George
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By MoonShadow - 6 Years Ago
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The bolt that attaches the rod to the brake pedal arm is an eccentric. Loosen it and see if you can move the pedal higher by adjusting it.
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By Dobie - 6 Years Ago
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Do you have the stock single chamber master or did you or a PO convert to a dual chamber cylinder? If it was converted your brake pedal push rod is likely a tad too short. If that's the case adjustable push rods are available. You want 1/8" to 1/4" pedal free travel before the push rod contacts the M/C piston.
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By geo56 - 6 Years Ago
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I have the stock single chamber master cylinder and have turned the eccentric at the end of the push rod to lengthen it some.
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By Gene Purser - 6 Years Ago
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pumping the brakes to get a better pedal indicates (1) there is too much space between the shoe and the drum or (2) The master cylinder bore is too small. You said you replaced all components. Including the master cylinder? Given that you have adjusted the brakes, if it were me I would verify that the master cylinder bore is at least as large as original or that the wheel cylinders are not larger than original. You can never tell what you get with rebuilt or reproduction parts these days.
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By geo56 - 6 Years Ago
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All parts were ordered from Concours at the same time: new master cylinder, wheel cylinders and brake shoes. After 10 years it might be a good idea to replace all again with original equipment if I can get it.
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By miker - 6 Years Ago
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The only thing that hasn’t been mentioned is the fit of the shoes. Since it’s been this way since the rebuild, did the shoes properly fit the drums? If the shoes are standard and the drums turned oversize the contact patch will be off. I’d think this would be more of a braking problem than a pedal travel problem, but it’s been some years since I used drum brakes. When I did, the local supplier asked for the drums, and properly fit the shoes.
I’ve had good luck with Concours and since nothing is leaking I’d be looking for something in the original set up. Could be bore sizes in master or wheel cylinders, but that doesn’t sound like them.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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geo56 Posted -
"I am a little irritated and concerned with the position of my brake pedal in my 56 victoria with manual brakes . All brake components including lines were replace at a rebuild about 10 years 40,000 miles ago. At the time I had a friend help me bleed the system with him pumping the pedal and me opening the bleeder fittings. At the time I settled for about 2 inches of travel on the pedal no matter how much we bled the system. I have always compensated by pumping the pedal 3 times quickly and got a taller pedal as a result. Master cylinder seems ok as the pedal does not sink to the floor with constant pressure. I see no leaks at the master or wheel cylinders and the car stops fine without pulling to one side or squealing. A couple weeks ago I bought a self bleeding tool that sucks the fluid from each cylinder one at a time and saw no improvement if I didn,t make it a little worse. I also raised the car on all fours and adjusted the shoes to drag on each drum perhaps more than I think they should and I still have to give the pedal 3 quick pumps to get the pedal height that feels safe."
Try this ...
Put the car on stands and do not allow the rear axle to hang (partial rear brake application - cables). Run the shoes out until firm contact is made with drum. Back off until you can spin wheel by hand 1/2 to 3/4 of a revolution. Apply brakes (to center brake assy). Spin wheel again and adjust to arrive at same revolution count.
When replacing shoes (your first concern is quality) they may not make full contact with the drum unless the were arc ground. It may take a few hundred miles before they "seat in". They will require re-adjusting at that point and on a regular basis as there are no self-adjusters.
Also- There is a RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVE in the MC that maintains a pressure of 10lbs. on the wheel cylinders/shoes to allow a quicker reaction to the MC application. If you adjust the shoes as above and are satisfied with correct pedal adjustment, I would look here. This is considering all components are good.
Brake fluid is hydroscopic so a yearly or bi-yearly change is a good idea, especially for one that sits.
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By Rono - 6 Years Ago
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Did you bench bleed the Master Cylinder before it was installed?
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By geo56 - 6 Years Ago
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I did not bench beeld the master cylinder. I assumed It would bleed itself as the wheel cylinders were being bled.Other members who have submitted responses to my problem have also suggested having the shoes modified to fit the drums. I just installed mine out of the box and didn't know that having the shoes arched was an option in this day and age was an option.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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I have the same problem with my Manual Brakes on my 56. New Cylinders, Shoes, adjusted and bled. Shoes are making full contact with Drum looking at the Pattern. The Master was not replaced but does not appear to be leaking though the back. In order to get high Pedal a quick double Pump is required. I would like to know about this "Residual Valve" that Kultulz has mentioned. Contained in the Master Cylinder I assume? So does the Master require replacement?
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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The MC must be bled before attaching lines (GOOD POINT!).
Shoe arcing is hard to find nowadays as OSHA put a collar on it and today's equipment is expensive.
You can bleed the MC on the car (removes lines and plug or install returns to bowl). After a few hundred miles the shoes should have seated.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark Posted -
"I would like to know about this "Residual Valve" that Kultulz has mentioned. Contained in the Master Cylinder I assume? So does the Master require replacement?"
In the SGL BOWL MC, the valve (BASIC PN 2178 if you have a catalog) is used to allow gradual return of fluid after brake release (no slamming) and also maintains a steady 10lb. residual pressure on the hydraulic system when brakes are released to more quickly have the shoes expanded. Without this feature you will have excessive shoe travel.
DUAL RSVR MC have the valve (drums brakes only) in the MC outlet port(s).
The valve was once serviced separately then went to complete kit only. I do not trust vendors sources or off-shore. If I was going to depend on a SGL BOWL MC, I would seriously consider having it restored professionally. Same with wheel cylinders.
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By Rono - 6 Years Ago
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If you decide to remove the master cylinder to bleed it properly, there are master cylinder bench bleeding kits you can buy at the local parts store. They are cheap. Basically you are purging the air trapped in the bore of the master. If you do it on a "bench" the easiest way I have found is to put the master in a vice and with the bleeder kit installed, fill the master 1/2 full with brake fluid. Then I use a stout Phillips screw driver to push in the master plunger several times until no more air bubbles are seen. Make sure the tubing remains below the fluid level in the master. You can do this with the master still mounted on the firewall using the brake pedal to pump the master, just make sure all your line fittings on the master are tight or you will spray fluid everywhere.
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By geo56 - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks for the advice on bench bleeding the master cylinder. I find it curious however that the original shop manual makes no mention of bleeding the master cylinder, even after a system overhaul. I'm glad someone else chimed in with the same problem. 3 quick pumps and I get a taller pedal. Scary to drive that way.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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I found the Residual Check Valve in the Parts Catalog. Internal in the Master Cylinder. If that'  s not working correctly that is likely the Cause of the Problem We are both having. I don't know how old the Master is on mine. I had the system repaired with new Wheel Cylinders, Shoes, and Hoses this Spring to pass Safety Inspection after I purchased it.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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I purchased a new Power Booster and Single Master Cylinder to install on mine this Winter when I have the Motor out. I bought a Single because I have no intention of installing Disc Brakes on this One and I found the Dual Master extends out quite far on the last Car I did with Disc Brakes. I bought this Setup on Ebay.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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eBay item number:350589822554 The Seller I bought this Power Booster from also has external Residual check Valves that go in the Line from the Master that might solve your problem without going into the Master Cylinder. I have messaged Him to see if I need to ad One with this Master Cylinder because apparently it will work with Disc or Drum which likely means no internal Check Valve is installed.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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If you are not going to disc/drum and still using a SGL RSVR MC, why the adjustable proportioning valve?
Also be careful here as using two residual valves in tandem can cause serious problem(s).
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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geo56 Posted -
"I find it curious however that the original shop manual makes no mention of bleeding the master cylinder, even after a system overhaul. I'm glad someone else chimed in with the same problem. 3 quick pumps and I get a taller pedal. Scary to drive that way."
A regular system overhaul will not require the MC to be bled separately unless you allow it to drain.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Here is a simple and cheap kit -
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By geo56 - 6 Years Ago
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The likely cause that you posted was blocked out by the shop manual picture . Please reply again. thanks
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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KULTULZ (11/4/2018)
If you are not going to disc/drum and still using a SGL RSVR MC, why the adjustable proportioning valve? Also be careful here as using two residual valves in tandem can cause serious problem(s).
The Adjustable Prop Valve was recommended as part of the Purchase to allow fine "tuning" the Front and Rear Brake Bias. I had One on the last 56 when I added Disc Brake and found it very useful. I have asked for clarification from the supplier on whether or not there is a Residual Valve in the new Master already. If there is I don't need to ad another One.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark-
The Adjustable Prop Valve was recommended as part of the Purchase to allow fine "tuning" the Front and Rear Brake Bias. I had One on the last 56 when I added Disc Brake and found it very useful"
A proportioning valve is not used on four wheel drum. Brake balance/bias is achieved by shoe and wheel cylinder size.
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By Talkwrench - 6 Years Ago
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geo56 (11/3/2018)
All parts were ordered from Concours at the same time: new master cylinder, wheel cylinders and brake shoes. After 10 years it might be a good idea to replace all again with original equipment if I can get it.
I think you'll find the linings would of been generic , and if your drums are oversize they will never fit well or work. You need to take your drums to a place that does linings and have them measure and use correct oversize linings .
You dont need to bench bleed a single Cyl master Cyl. DONT push the pedal all the way to the floor in a single either. Buy speed bleeders and make your life easy.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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Residual pressure valves are usually found only on drum brake masters. Disc/drum masters usually use a combination block (residual pressure and prop valves)
lThe Adjustable Prop Valve was recommended as part of the Purchase to allow fine "tuning" the Front and Rear Brake Bias. I had One on the last 56 when I added Disc Brake and found it very useful. I have asked for clarification from the supplier on whether or not there is a Residual Valve in the new Master already. If there is I don't need to ad another One.[/quote]
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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When all the dust and smoke clears, it is usually improper shoe adjustment. If after a proper adjustment you don't have a good pedal, you go further (after allowing proper shoe seating).
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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2 inches of brake pedal is just as good as a full one..your shoes not fitting the drum has nothing to do with how much pedal you have.
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By darrell - 6 Years Ago
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i forgot to add bleeding your master cylinder will not help.you only do that when putting on a new master and dont want to bleed your wheels.if your wheels are bleed properly only 2 things are left wrong master cylinder or the rod is to short.what did you have for brakes before you done them over.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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...'ya know ...
This is exactly why I try to avoid brake theory discussions ...
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Back to my Question regarding the Residual Check Valve. The Supplier of the aftermarket Master I purchased has told Me there is no check Valve in this Master. Check Valve is not required unless the Master is mounted under the Floor (which in my Case it is Firewall mounted) Any opinions?
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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oldcarmark Posted -
"Back to my Question regarding the Residual Check Valve. The Supplier of the aftermarket Master I purchased has told Me there is no check Valve in this Master. Check Valve is not required unless the Master is mounted under the Floor (which in my Case it is Firewall mounted)
Any opinions?
Yeah, I have an opinion. The guy you are buying from is clueless or feeding you false information for a sale.
Residual Valve
Residual valves are used to maintain constant pressure on the brake system.
For drum brakes, a 10 lb. residual valve is used to hold pressure against the springs in the drum. This allows the drum brake to engage more quickly and reduces pedal travel.
For an under-the-floor master cylinder brake system, a 2 lb. residual valve is used for disc brakes to keep brake fluid from flowing back down into the master cylinder.
SOURCE - https://techtalk.mpbrakes.com/how-to-series/four-things-to-know-about-brake-valves
The MC you boiught is not FORD but regardless, a residual valve was somewhere in the system.
Most of these sellers (especially on EvilBay are dangerous) IMO.
That's the best I can do for you. GOOD LUCK with it !
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By Pete 55Tbird - 6 Years Ago
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George can you help me to understand what it is about your brakes that concerns you. If I understand it is the pedal is too close to the floor and not that there is something wrong with the braking action.
Is that your issue? The movement of the piston inside the master cylinder forces brake fluid to each wheel cylinder so when the wheel cylinders are fully expanded the brake pedal can not move further.
Will a longer rod from the brake pedal to the master cylinder solve your issue? Brake pedal travel will REMAIN THE SAME just start higher and finish higher. If not can you explain. Pete
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By geo56 - 6 Years Ago
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After driving a bit and I mash down on the brake pedal to slow or stop the pedal goes about half way to the floor.Give it 3 quick pumps and I gain about 1 and 1/2 to 2 inches that feels where I would like it to be. After the 3 pumps the pedal remains firm and does not sink to the floor as it would with a bad master cylinder. Advice that I have received on this topic and the fact that I have bled the brakes several times have led me to believe that perhaps I need to arch the shoes which no one does any more or buy shoes with oversized linings.
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By Rono - 6 Years Ago
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A spongy pedal is an indication of air in the system. I would guess the master cylinder if it wasn't bench bled.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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If you don't have a combination valve or a residual pressure valve that that may be your problem. The combo valve is both a residual pressure valve and a proportioning valve (combo_. Disc/drum masters generally do not have a residual pressure valve so you need to install them in the system. 10 lbs for the drums, 2 for the discs KULTULZ is right
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By miker - 6 Years Ago
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I’m just thinking out loud here, and maybe not clearly. But if you have no or a malfunctioning residual pressure valve and crack the fitting open from the master to the brakes you’ll get no or little fluid. If you’ve got even 10lbs you’ll get a little spurt. Not much, fluid isn’t compressible, but maybe enough to see?
I’ve had larger motorhomes where the brakes were fine, but if you did some hard corners you needed to pump them slightly, like you’re describing. I was told that was the side load pushing the pistons back in and requiring they be moved back out. I know I’m talking disc here, but if the brake friction device isn’t close to the rotor or drum you’re going to run out of travel before you get full braking.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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There can be issues if the brake pedal push rod is too long. It's been thousands of year so please correct me if I'm wrong, but as I can recall after much thought: When the pedal is released, the MC cup must move back enough to uncover the compensating port (the smaller forward of the 2 holes) to arm the MC with a full charge of fluid for the next application. When the pedal is released, the MC piston returns faster than fluid is returned from the wheel cylinders. Fluid flows around the MC cup to relieve the momentary low/negative pressure until fluid begins to return from the system. That may possibly explain why it takes a couple rapid pumps to get a taller pedal??? Another reason that comes to mind for the residual valve is to prevent, due the momentum of the returning fluid, the possibility of air entering from the wheel cylinders when the pedal is released and to keep the wheel cylinder cups against the bore. However, I doubt air is in the system, though. If the shoes are contacting the drums by adjustment, then any excessive travel should be eliminated. As stated in another post, the residual valve may be faulty and also check that the MC piston is returning all the way home. Hope this helps and not add more confusion, JEFF....................
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (11/5/2018)
There can be issues if the brake pedal push rod is too long. It's been thousands of year so please correct me if I'm wrong, but as I can recall after much thought: When the pedal is released, the MC cup must move back enough to uncover the compensating port (the smaller forward of the 2 holes) to arm the MC with a full charge of fluid for the next application. When the pedal is released, the MC piston returns faster than fluid is returned from the wheel cylinders. Fluid flows around the MC cup to relieve the momentary low/negative pressure until fluid begins to return from the system. That may possibly explain why it takes a couple rapid pumps to get a taller pedal??? Another reason that comes to mind for the residual valve is to prevent, due the momentum of the returning fluid, the possibility of air entering from the wheel cylinders when the pedal is released and to keep the wheel cylinder cups against the bore. However, I doubt air is in the system, though. If the shoes are contacting the drums by adjustment, then any excessive travel should be eliminated. As stated in another post, the residual valve may be faulty and also check that the MC piston is returning all the way home. Hope this helps and not add more confusion, JEFF....................
According to the Shop Manual Pedal "Free Travel" prior to the Pushrod contacting the Piston inside the Master Cylinder should be minimum 5/16" and Maximum 7/16". This is determined using Hand Pressure on the Brake Pedal. If the Correct Pushrod is being used this Adjustment is made using the Eccentric Bolt. There is a Spring at the front of the Master Cylinder Bore that returns the Piston to full "release" Position when pressure is released from Brake Pedal. If that initial Adjustment cannot be done correctly then that that is the place to start diagnosing the Problem of low pedal Height. When I get around to replacing my Manual Brake Master with the replacement Booster / Master I will be adding the inline Residual Valve. I believe the rest of my System is in good shape with the Drums being within Specs and not Oversize. I am in the Process of pulling Engine/ Trans so I won't be doing brakes over for Awhile.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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I have always been amazed at brake theory discussions-
paul2748 Posted-
"If you don't have a combination valve or a residual pressure valve that that may be your problem. The combo valve is both a residual pressure valve and a proportioning valve (combo_. Disc/drum masters generally do not have a residual pressure valve so you need to install them in the system. 10 lbs for the drums, 2 for the discs ...
THANX for the kind words Paul, but ...
There seems to be confusion concerning OEM Systems and aftermarket parts. FORD (during this period and introduction of DISC/DRUM) had the RESIDUAL VALVE mounted in the MC, later DBL RSVR in the outlet line to the drum brakes.
A COMBINATION (or PROPORTIONING) VALVE is not used in four wheel drum brakes (although it was used in some GM SYSTEMS). A 2lb residual is used with a DISC BRAKE CONVERSION only if the MC is mounted below the caliper level to prevent brake fluid returning (draining) to the NC (gravity). The DISC BRAKE design is self adjusting, no valve (of this type) needed.
FORD DEARBORN has the best description of the system.
The RESIDUAL VALVE's purpose is to prevent the slamming of the wheel cylinder piston cups (by retracting spring pressure), possibly distorting them and allowing air to enter the wheel cylinder. Their other purpose is to keep a steady 10lb pressure on the system to allow for quicker shoe movement when applying the brakes.
So is the need to re-check shoe adjustment again after bleeding the system (shoe position will change).
The style of your MC oldcarmark. I cannot remember if it is GM or MOPAR but if the guy will give you the origional application, you can probably find on the internet a breakdown and see if a residual valve was in the MC. The INLINE VALVES you see are mainly for conversions or custom brake systems.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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I have always been amazed at brake theory discussions-
paul2748 Posted-
"If you don't have a combination valve or a residual pressure valve that that may be your problem. The combo valve is both a residual pressure valve and a proportioning valve (combo_. Disc/drum masters generally do not have a residual pressure valve so you need to install them in the system. 10 lbs for the drums, 2 for the discs ...
THANX for the kind words Paul, but ...
There seems to be confusion concerning OEM Systems and aftermarket parts. FORD (during this period and introduction of DISC/DRUM) had the RESIDUAL VALVE mounted in the MC, later DBL RSVR in the outlet line to the drum brakes.
A COMBINATION (or PROPORTIONING) VALVE is not used in four wheel drum brakes (although it was used in some GM SYSTEMS). A 2lb residual is used with a DISC BRAKE CONVERSION only if the MC is mounted below the caliper level to prevent brake fluid returning (draining) to the NC (gravity). The DISC BRAKE design is self adjusting, no valve (of this type) needed.
FORD DEARBORN has the best description of the system.
The RESIDUAL VALVE's purpose is to prevent the slamming of the wheel cylinder piston cups (by retracting spring pressure), possibly distorting them and allowing air to enter the wheel cylinder. Their other purpose is to keep a steady 10lb pressure on the system to allow for quicker shoe movement when applying the brakes.
So is the need to re-check shoe adjustment again after bleeding the system (shoe position will change).
The style of your MC oldcarmark. I cannot remember if it is GM or MOPAR but if the guy will give you the origional application, you can probably find on the internet a breakdown and see if a residual valve was in the MC. The INLINE VALVES you see are mainly for conversions or custom brake systems.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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OK...
Something wrong with my browser. Tried to explain again but guess I am out of here.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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paul2748 (11/5/2018)
If you don't have a combination valve or a residual pressure valve that that may be your problem. The combo valve is both a residual pressure valve and a proportioning valve (combo_. Disc/drum masters generally do not have a residual pressure valve so you need to install them in the system. 10 lbs for the drums, 2 for the discs
OK. I am coffeed up and my BROWSER seems to be functional ...
The 2lb residual valve is used only if the MC fluid level (actual bowl) is below caliper/wheel cylinder level (this prevents gravity weight of fluid from returning to the MC bowl(s).
The 10lb residual valve is used to control fluid flow back to the MC after brake release so as to not allow cup distortion and possible entering of outside air (see FORD DEARBORN post). It also keeps pressure on the wheel cylinder pistons to make brake reaction quicker upon application. Without the last feature (or defect), the shoes will retract too far and lead to an over travel pedal situation
A RESIDUAL VALVE is usually placed in the MC itself (OEM). The placement on a DUAL RESERVOIR is usually in the outlet port for the drum brake circuit. There seems to be confusion as to OEM design and aftermarket units designed for custom brake systems.
The MC oldcarmark showed is an early GM style (I believe). I do not know where in the system the RV was placed but if the seller can provide source information, a quick GOOGLE should find a breakdown and show the location. There has to be one somewhere and doubling up with an accessory RV will give dire circumstances.
A PROPORTIONING and/or COMBINATION VALVE is not used on a four wheel drum design (although GM did on a few).
These so-called KIT SELLERS (most) are dangerous IMO.
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By FORD DEARBORN - 6 Years Ago
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Olcaarmark: It has been mentioned several times in this thread to adjust the push rod longer to gain a taller pedal. I was trying to only point out this adjustment can be over done to where the MC piston does not return all the way home when released which may prevent the MC from getting a full gulp of fluid. I know from experience how easy it can be to develop tunnel-vision and tune out the obvious when tracking down a problem. - I wish you well with your winter project, ............JEFF
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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FORD DEARBORN (11/6/2018)
Olcaarmark: It has been mentioned several times in this thread to adjust the push rod longer to gain a taller pedal. I was trying to only point out this adjustment can be over done to where the MC piston does not return all the way home when released which may prevent the MC from getting a full gulp of fluid. I know from experience how easy it can be to develop tunnel-vision and tune out the obvious when tracking down a problem. - I wish you well with your winter project, ............JEFF
Hey Jeff! I wasn't trying to knock any Ideas. Just that if the System is using Stock Parts it should work properly as designed so a starting Point is the Master Cylinder as far as initial Adjustment and go from there. Personally I think Geo's and mine Problem is related to the integral Valve in the Master. Double Pump gives full Pedal. Shouldn't need to do that.
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By monarch - 6 Years Ago
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Your problem on your 56 Ford is your master cylinder is not moving enough fluid. When you pump the pedal you are moving more fluid which gives you a higher pedal. I had the same problem. On your mc push rod there should be a plastic cap. This makes the push rod longer and maybe a little wider. Concours Parts sells this part. Most part breakdown pictures do not show this part but theres does. Part Number 2142 in there catalog $8.95 concoursparts.com Hope this helps. It will fix your problem if your cap is missing Bill
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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... i'll be damned ...
THANX monarch!
The deterioration/absence of that bushing will affect both pedal height adjustment and piston travel. It's purpose must have been to protect the piston from direct contact with the push-rod.
BASIC PN 2142 has been removed from the MPC FINAL ISSUE TEXT and also does not show in the ILL.
Talk about a FORGOTTEN FACTOID ...
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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Well, there have been no further comments but this is what must have happened-
The actual bushing had a BASIC PN 2142. If you notice in the ILL, the 2143 BPM is pointing at the rod and the bushing, so the bushing also came installed on the rod. FORD must have dropped the 2142 at some point possibly due to low sales. To get the bushing, one had to buy the rod (2143). Then, the rod went obsolete.
The ILL shown above shows 52/59 but actually it is 55/59. Pre-1955 MC had a different configuration (differences shown in 49/59 MPC FINAL ISSUE). So that explains why the bushing is fairly unknown until this gentleman informed us.
Now, if one installs the bushing (if needed) and then adjusts for correct pedal height/rod to piston clearance and you still have a soft pedal, you begin a diagnostic routine.
I am supposing this factoid was forgotten as most now go to DUAL RESERVOIR MC's.
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By monarch - 6 Years Ago
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Had a low pedal that drove me nuts on my 56.I made my push rod slightly longer and it helped but did not completely fix the problem. Found this little bushing and it fixed problem. (high brake pedal and hard) I don't remember but I think the bushing was a little wider. Bill
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By MoonShadow - 6 Years Ago
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I can't help going back to the master cylinder. Given all new parts and bled several times there has to be a culprit in the system. The bushing on the end of the push rod may be the reason but over the years I've had brake problems on these systems and it often comes back to not bench bleeding the master cylinder. It seems that bleeding the brakes would fix this but it often doesn't. If the bushing isn't the answer then I would remove the master and bleed it. Just my nickels worth.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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There is probably a specification for pedal height in the shop manual. Checking that will give you a clue. If it is too low, then maybe that bushing is missing, maybe the wrong pushrod is installed, maybe the pushrod hole is too deep in the replacement cylinder, maybe the location that it connects to the pedal has been changed due to a previous owner's bright idea, maybe a pedal return stop is adjusted incorrectly. If height is good, then it probably is not linkage or actuation related.
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