|
By Half-dude - 7 Years Ago
|
Hey guys,
So I think my voltage regulator has gone out of wack again. One day I started the car and the thing just constantly chattered it's points, faster or slower depending on engine speed, and last weekend I tried to start her and the battery died before I could get her going. I still don't have a volt meter to help me know if the system is working since none nowadays read under 8 volts so it's kinda scary not knowing if Im charging or not. I've had to learn analog ways of telling like the speed of my blinker blinking and brightness of my headlights.. ect ect.
Anyway going out of wack is probably an issue you'll always eventually run into with these original regulators what with them being spring set and all.
I figured by this point there's got to be aftermarket electronically controlled and/or solid state volt regulators right? But I can't seem to find any. If they had any available especially if they were made to look like the original ones I'd buy it in a second! Anyone know if these exist?
|
|
By 57RancheroJim - 7 Years Ago
|
At sometime in the past I saw an electronic voltage regulator that was in a standard OE type housing. I'm sorry I just don't recall where I saw it.
|
|
By Tedster - 7 Years Ago
|
Half-dude (6/28/2018)
Hey guys, I still don't have a volt meter Anyway going out of wack is probably an issue you'll always eventually run into with these original regulators what with them being spring set and all.
They work OK, but they require the points to be cleaned periodically. The generator itself too needs attention, esp. the brushes and commutator.
You need a voltmeter to perform basic troubleshooting and maintenance. There are solid state generator regulators but it sounds like an alternator might be what you want.
The "clover systems dynamo regulator" is what you're looking for in an electronic or solid state regulator. Be sure the generator is serviceable before trying this.
|
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 7 Years Ago
|
|
I once tried to persuade the guy who converts 6V OD relays (to solid state) to also convert/sell regulators. Not enough demand. Since regulator service is largely a lost art, I just toss & replace when they start acting up (overcharging). Undercharging is not really an issue if you keep your battery on a ‘smart’ charger/maintainer when parked.
|
|
By Tedster - 7 Years Ago
|
In a lot of ways I think the internet or world wide web has been phenomenal in getting people the information they need for DIY, but, I'm also sort of glad it wasn't around, at least when I first started delving seriously with classic autos. I paid no particular attention whatsoever to four way drum brakes, points & condenser, carburetors, and generator charging systems. If I'd have listened to all the nervous nellies out there today it would never have left the garage. As it was I used it as a daily driver even in subzero temperatures and put on about 30,000 miles, often in really super remote areas in the desert southwest. I tuned it up as best I could at the time (not very well) and took it around the block a few times. I figured a cross country road trip was just like that, only moreso. Yeah, I was young(er) and dumb, but it was great. The modern reproduction or production regulators aren't so great. Good used or NOS are better materials and construction. The regulator points have to be kept clean and the units well grounded or will not work for you.
If you're set on electronic generator regulation try these guys, they make them for just about everything, tractors, GM, Ford, etc., there has to be some demand.
http://cloversystems.com/products/other/dynamo-regulator/
|
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 7 Years Ago
|
|
Just special-ordered one. Not cheap ($177 delivered). But, if it is reliable, and never needs adjusting/point-dressing, likely a worthwhile upgrade since it fits the original stock cover, and I won’t have to worry anymore about keeping the battery on a charger during non-winter/daily use.
|
|
By Tedster - 7 Years Ago
|
They look to be very well made. The big problem with vintage cars and trucks is they always have excessive corrosion in the ground points, connections, and wiring unless someone has made a special point of remedying this.Thick paint in restored vehicles will do the same thing, high resistance causes a regulator to charge at a higher voltage, but at the same time, limits the current output the generator (or alternator) is capable of.
The cleaning/dressing of the relay contact points is also something that is often overlooked. Once a year would not be too often, especially collector cars that sit a lot, exposed to high humidity. The older mechanical NOS or NORS regulators are noticeably heavier than modern reproduction replacements and made with better materials. I haven't found they ever need any adjustment, unless someone has already buggered them. The use of an electronic or solid state regulator won't obviate the requirements for low resistance grounds and connections.
A "smart" or float charger is a good idea to keep a charged battery in shape through the off season, mainly to help prevent permanent sulfation. An electronic regulator isn't going to help with that. It's not just wintertime to be concerned with, right now we're experiencing a pretty typical summer heat wave in the midwest, and the unused batteries are coming out of the garage, inside into the basement where it's cool. High temperatures kill automotive batteries.
|
|
By DANIEL TINDER - 7 Years Ago
|
|
Turns out, I had to cancel the order. The mounting configuration is different (I mistakenly assumed ‘Autolite’ & ‘FoMoCo’ would interchange). Even though I could likely have fabricated a mounting adapter to avoid drilling new holes, and also found a plain-top cover to fit, they currently can only supply a 30amp max. part. Since the 55 T-Bird gen. is 40amp, I will have to stay with the mechanical unit.
|
|
By Half-dude - 7 Years Ago
|
I don't get it, why would having your car parked and not on a battery tender harm the volt regulator? Or am I reading you guys wrong? How long being parked are we talking here? Months?
|
|
By darrell - 7 Years Ago
|
|
tedster i could have wrote what you did about the internet.if that kind of info was around back when i never would have bored engines to the sises i did.threw any old cam and lifters in .new or used didnt make any difference.now im back to my old self and pay little attention to any of it.any of the thins i did back then never caused me any grief.i just finished boring a 272 to 292 no sonic testing.whats that anyway something to eat.
|
|
By Tedster - 7 Years Ago
|
Half-dude (7/7/2018)
I don't get it, why would having your car parked and not on a battery tender harm the volt regulator? Or am I reading you guys wrong? How long being parked are we talking here? Months?
There's a couple things going on here especially with collector vehicles in my opinion. Number one is they usually don't get driven enough. Any battery will start to self-discharge just sitting around and this will lead to a permanent reduction in battery capacity called permanent sulfation. #1 battery killer right there. Hot weather is the culprit. Somebody once said "Your battery dies in July, it just doesn't fall over till January". Ever notice that? The first real cold snap morning in the late fall or winter there's a run on batteries.
It might charge up, but it won't have the staying power or reserve it once did. Also corrosion in grounds and cables is common in collector cars. The mechanical regulators, the relays also buildup a layer of skunge on the point faces. Generator equipped motors don't do a lot of charging at idle, stop and go, or at night. Unlike alternator systems the battery is tasked to provide all of the current for lights, ignition and accessories under certain conditions.
So add it all up, a chronically undercharged battery with corroded connections the regulator tends to increase the charging voltage. It "sees" the corrosion as a battery that is charged up but at the same time the corrosion severely limits the current output the generator is capable of.
The regulator cutout in particular tends to stick closed, battery voltage backfeeds into the generator. Very common problem in neglected systems. It's really important that all cables and ground connections are tight with clean shiny metal on both sides and battery is charged up thoroughly.
The battery tenders work really well for maintenance float charging. I use them on both antique iron and new stuff for different reasons. The modern vehicles have all the bells and whistles and electronics that place a fairly high parasitic drain on the battery, even when there are no faults they can run down a battery fairly quickly. They will place a current draw for up to a half hour or so after shutdown equivalent to a headlight. Short trips result in a short service life.
|
|
By Sanddoc - 7 Years Ago
|
I have a 74 Dart
It has a "small foot print" electronic VR.. very easy to convert over really... I think it's like 3 wires, and could be hidden if need be.
of course you could also go the $$ and get a alternator in a generator case with built in VR...
Another trick out there is to make the instument VR electronic, I did that on both the dodge and my 62 Ford wagon.. its really an
easy conversion, except for getting to the parts in the dash..
Best
|