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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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IIRC there has been some confusion in the past about the Y-block's Red engine color in the mid 50s. And also which paint company had it right.
In anycase, I previously used "plasti-kote" Red engine enamel, Ford Red #206, which is a fairly deep Red, with limited if any Orange tone. To the present, I purchased 2 cans of the same companies #206 engine paint..Guess what, it doesn't even come close to the previous color. It's at least 3 shades more on the orange side. When I enquired with the paint person at our local auto parts store, I was told that "plasti-cote" has changed hands twice in recent years.
Anyone else had a similar problem? And what is a good alternate Red engine paint? Info appreciated, Thanks
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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I use the engine paint from Bill Hirsch in Newark, NJ. I think he calls it Thunderbird red. and is a orangy red color.
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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I noticed the same with the plasti-kote but after being in the car for a while it looked more red, maybe the heat cycles tone it down?
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By DANIEL TINDER - 6 Years Ago
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If starting from scratch (museum-quality resto), use Seymour ‘Ford engine red’. If touching up an original motor, better mix in some scrub orange (50s-era red pigments tended to fade significantly when exposed to heat & oxygen).
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks everyone. My issue is that I have just painted some parts with left over original #206, so I don't want to have to re prep & do it all over again to get it to match.. Was hoping someone could steer me to a closer match..
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By suede57ford - 6 Years Ago
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I personally like to use the Rangoon Red Code "J" that ford used on pickups in the mid sixties for a good substitute for the original Ford Engine Red.
I have it mixed in a single stage urethane with hardener and spray with the gun.
The Catalyzed Urethane paint will not rewet, soften, or stain like a spray can paint will. Often even a small fuel leak or a shot of brake cleaner melts the rattle can paint.
Using a high quality urethane is a little more effort but will look perfect for years. It's just a more professional way to make a Y-Block stay looking beautiful.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks Pat, but some of the touch up is in chassis & a spray gun isn't an option. The manifold & valley cover are already painted with the original #206 (real) Red & ready to install, but now I need to find a substitute Red to complete the touch up, due to the change in paint formulae..Will keep looking.
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By Ted - 6 Years Ago
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I’ve found that the VHT Ford Red on top of grey primer comes reasonably close to the original Ford Red without spending a lot of money. It does have that orange tint to it while many of the other Ford Reds that are available in rattle cans do not. I find the VHT brand at the local Auto Zone.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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As far as I can tell, my engine still wears the original paint. It has a an orange tint that the rattle canned parts I've swapped in doesn't.
Original paint. The heater valve has since been returned to the intake.
57 manifold painted with spray paint
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By 56Roger - 6 Years Ago
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Pretty sure any Ford red engines with original paint are going to be faded to the point of being unrecognizable by now. Up until modern paints came along red was always a color that would fade, sooner than later.
I have used Dupli-Color Engine Enamel on several engines. DE 1605 Ford Red. Seems to be the right red. No orange tone at all. Have used the Dupli-Color engine enamel in other colors as well, my experience it is very good paint. Follow the instructions. Clean. Light coats followed by a medium wet coat, on the schedule they suggest. No need for primer. Holds up real well.
Been using it close to 20 years. All good results. DE 1635 Ford Semi Gloss black and DE 1615 Aluminum are staples in my shop as well.
Commonly available.
Edit: My understanding is that VHT and Dupli-Color are owned by the same parent company. Have been several years. Dupli-Color used to have 1200 degree paint that was very good also. Their aluminum color was nice and bright. Looked exactly like fresh bead blasted aluminum and would stay that way. When I could no longer find it I eventually found that VHT had taken over the real high temperature part of Dupli-Color. VHT is real good too but their aluminum isn't quite as bright as Dupli-Colors was. Oh well. Dupli-Color engine enamel is good for 500 degrees which is plenty for most parts.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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I have don judgeing on early Birds for a number of years and all the 55-57 Birds used the orangy-red color. I assume the sedans were the same.
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By 56Roger - 6 Years Ago
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I have a 56 Country Sedan that had about 63000 miles when I got it. Everything on the drivetrain of the car was original and untouched. While cleaning it up I found paint on the engine in protected areas where the color looked to likely be very close to what it would have been when new. The Dupli-Color Ford Red matched that color very well. I'd say dead on.
That said in the eighties I was involved with the Mustang Club of America for a while. These guys can be pretty picky about every little thing as you might expect. Now some of them would sit and argue about every last detail. Take carpet for example. It MUST be like this and this and this to be concours correct. HAS to be. No exceptions. Points off if not exactly like what we say.
Then a man who had worked in Ford management comes along and says, "Well to keep up with demand there were six different suppliers of carpet for the early Mustangs. Not all exactly the same. Each plant may have used different stuff than the other and each may not have used the same stuff all year." So none of y'all are "right". Or all you are. Or (my opinion) it doesn't really matter anyway.
Also in the 80s for several years I worked at Bayliner at the original plant in Arlington, Washington. I can tell you positively that each boat of each model was not going to be exactly identical to the other. Many little details were simply what one person on the line did that day on that shift, maybe even on just that boat. Somebody restoring one those boats would think they were all that way, like the one they have.
Todays manufacturing principles have taken away probably most of these kind of things. But surely in the 50s it was happening. Ever look at the welding on a 56 Ford frame? Atrocious. Like it was the guys first day on the job, first day of of welding, and he showed up drunk. Then again that's on those that I have seen with my own eyes and stories I have heard from other guys that have seen the same thing. That leaves more than 99.99% of all the other Ford frames which none of us saw that may have been expertly done.
Anyway I will not be using any orange tinted paint on anything I have. I have a nice little early 283 that is actually supposed to be orange of course. It won't be when I'm through with it. Ford Red would be a good bet. With no orange tint.
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By NoShortcuts - 6 Years Ago
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Roger. My experiences with Ford manufactured '50s cars echo yours. There WERE variations in the production of vehicles depending on the assembly plant, time of production, availability of hardware components used, material suppliers, and WHO performed the assembly task when the vehicle / component / sub-assembly work was done. 
As a fellow Forum member, I so appreciate your continued submissions to this web site, Roger Thanks for what you share, and how you do it!
Your submission to this thread should provide some levity to those of us that get caught up in 'trying to do it right'. God Bless the professional restoration shops and the Concours Judges, BUT . . . 
Regards,
Charlie Brown
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By 56Roger - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks Charlie. Another thing to remember is Ford often used up parts from previous models on the next model year. That'll mess the "purists' up for sure every time.
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By bergmanj - 6 Years Ago
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Speaking of using "left-over" parts, my 1st '55 Crown with 272 engine had a crank damper pulley which still had the hand-crank tabs as original factory!!!
No hole through radiator, though.
And a '63-1/2 Galaxie I had still had a "sideways" Edsel radiator with external expansion tank above the 390.
JLB
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By bergmanj - 6 Years Ago
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Hi, again!
In my area [Duluth MN} we have Menards, Home Depot; Auto Zone, O'Reilley's, NAPA, L&M Supply, & Auto Value.
Does anyone know who carries which brands: SP152 Ford Red; the VHT Ford Red [10155 04442]; Plasticote Ford Red #206; and/or Duplicolor DC 1605 all mentioned in prior posts here? Any info. on any of these suppliers would help.
Thanks, JLB
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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If you want a real Red that's not orange tinged, do not buy current stock Plasti - Cote # 206.. the company has changed hands & their current stock of that number isn't even close to the old stock.. I enquired about it & they didn't have an answer for my enquiry except to offer to take it back..
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By bergmanj - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks, folks. I've found them at various auto stores in nearby Cloquet MN. I'm between Duluth & Cloquet; most of the time cloquet's easier (smaller) and closer for driving.
Thanks again, JLB
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By Small block - 6 Years Ago
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56Roger (7/10/2018)
I have a 56 Country Sedan that had about 63000 miles when I got it. Everything on the drivetrain of the car was original and untouched. While cleaning it up I found paint on the engine in protected areas where the color looked to likely be very close to what it would have been when new. The Dupli-Color Ford Red matched that color very well. I'd say dead on. That said in the eighties I was involved with the Mustang Club of America for a while. These guys can be pretty picky about every little thing as you might expect. Now some of them would sit and argue about every last detail. Take carpet for example. It MUST be like this and this and this to be concours correct. HAS to be. No exceptions. Points off if not exactly like what we say. Then a man who had worked in Ford management comes along and says, "Well to keep up with demand there were six different suppliers of carpet for the early Mustangs. Not all exactly the same. Each plant may have used different stuff than the other and each may not have used the same stuff all year." So none of y'all are "right". Or all you are. Or (my opinion) it doesn't really matter anyway. Also in the 80s for several years I worked at Bayliner at the original plant in Arlington, Washington. I can tell you positively that each boat of each model was not going to be exactly identical to the other. Many little details were simply what one person on the line did that day on that shift, maybe even on just that boat. Somebody restoring one those boats would think they were all that way, like the one they have. Todays manufacturing principles have taken away probably most of these kind of things. But surely in the 50s it was happening. Ever look at the welding on a 56 Ford frame? Atrocious. Like it was the guys first day on the job, first day of of welding, and he showed up drunk. Then again that's on those that I have seen with my own eyes and stories I have heard from other guys that have seen the same thing. That leaves more than 99.99% of all the other Ford frames which none of us saw that may have been expertly done. Anyway I will not be using any orange tinted paint on anything I have. I have a nice little early 283 that is actually supposed to be orange of course. It won't be when I'm through with it. Ford Red would be a good bet. With no orange tint.
Your story about the Carpet reminds me of My 1977 Mustang Cobra II Gold and Black. I bought the car New took it to a Car show with original paint and Strips. The judge told me the Snake Decals were on the car in the Wrong place, they were mounted too high and docked points. When I told him it was never repainted since new he basically told me I was snot telling the truth! later at a different show the same judge and a second more informed judge Both went over my Car the second judge gave me a top original .and said it is normal for the snakes to be in different locations!
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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I have a Question along similar Lines. The Canadian Y-Blocks were painted Green-not Red. Has anyone any knowledge of the correct Green that was used on these Engines? I know there is a Green Engine Paint available based on the 1929-1940's Engines but I don't know if its the same on the 1950's Y-Blocks? 1950's Flatheads were a different color.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Further to the Red engine color discussions.. Some mentioned Dupli- Color engine paint, CDE 1605 Ford Red. It's not the same Red as "old stock" Plasti Coat #206, but their later stock ( apparently by Valspar) isn't either so that's irelevant.. The CDE 1605 is definately not orangy looking, although as pointed out by a relative who has worked as a painter, it has somewhat of a brown tone to it. For instance, it's definately not a tool box Red either..
N.B.- I'm now informed by an aftermarket parts supplier that VHT paints are now owned by Duplicolor.. Trying to find an engine Red that isn't orangy is getting annoying!..
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By Rusty_S85 - 6 Years Ago
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I tend to like to use original ads but its hit and miss as I highly doubt the fuel and vacuum lines were yellow so I don't think that orangy red shown is the correct color how ever.
The above photo is taken of my '56 292 manifold this was removed some time in the 70s I want to say and it was sitting under a piece of old carpet/rug till I brought it home.
The Por15 matched perfectly as I cleaned it up and brush painted over and the color was just a slight tad more red but that is to be expected with age.
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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Rusty 85; Sorry, this is a late reply..That POR Red looks correct. Is there a specific mix # & is it somewhat heat resistant?
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By Rusty_S85 - 5 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (1/18/2019)
Rusty 85; Sorry, this is a late reply..That POR Red looks correct. Is there a specific mix # & is it somewhat heat resistant?
That's ok, I got mine from Amazon due to my free prime shipping didn't want to pay for the shipping from summit for just one quart can.
Part number for the POR 15 is 42098 and is called classic Ford red enamel. I brushed painted mine with some cheap chip brushes I got from amazon.
Heat rating is up to 350*F and is guaranteed to not burn off.
Ive been running the car quite a bit and have to say it hasn't burned off on my heat cross over and I am running regular stock felpro intake gaskets with no restrictors on the cross over. The driver side cross over is a tad dull looking but that happened as for some reason the holley 4000 on my 3rd running started pouring fuel out on the driverside. Shut engine off pulled aircleaner and restarted to see where it was coming from and nothing didn't do it again.
Below are some fully assembled photos taken after a few heat cycles.
You can see the heat cross over is a tad dull looking just under the aircleaner. That was caused by gas pouring out of the carb for some reason.
The water pump was painted years ago with duplicolor Ford/Chrysler engine red which I always felt was never right it didn't seem red enough then I came across the Por 15 when I was looking and saw it listed on Summit as Classic Ford Red.
This is before I got the heater valve replaced so this was before I ran the engine.
Im real happy with the paint though. If I ever strip the engine down for a repaint or a rebuild what ever happens I will be using Por 15 but I wont brush it on I am going to thin it down like it states you can and spray it on for better coverage.
Just remember to follow the directions it says you have to wait 3 days for it to cure before you run the engine. You can handle the part in a few hours it will be dry just wont be fully cured for 3 days.
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By PF Arcand - 5 Years Ago
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Rusty: That looks very close to the "old stock" Plasti Kote #206 Ford engine Red.. Thanks for the information. I'll look into it..
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