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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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Just installed a 312 head and am having cooling problems. The head was boiled and checked for cracks, it passed the test. Now the head is hot while the other head is cool. Coolant was boiling.
The head that is hot is on the left side (driver side)
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By 56Roger - 7 Years Ago
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Just one head was removed? For what reason? Was it hot before? The coolant was boiling but one head was cool?
Need more information but it sounds like something went awry during installation.
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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Thanks for the get back.
Had to replace lifters, cam etc because of lifters snapping in two. After we took the engine apart we noticed cracked head, found one on ebay. Had it boiled and checked for cracks, it was good to go.
Started the half hour break in sequence with rad cap off and about 15 minutes in the operation, the water blew out of the rad and gained altitude of 6 to 8 feet. Let engine cool down, put on rad cap this time, about 10 minutes in, the gauge hardly moved. Checked rad, it was cool. Some pressure was building up because the rad cap was leaking and the bottom hose was leaking a little.
Now, felt the left head.......very hot, felt the right head , cool to touch. And the gauge, an after market mechanical one was at maybe 110 degrees after 10 minutes of 1500 to 2000 RPM
Why the heat difference ?, why the boiling over ? Can you help ?
Thanks,
Tim in Florida
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 7 Years Ago
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My guess is that the head gasket is backwards. Is the square corner of the gasket sticking out from under the upper front corner of the head, or the rear upper corner. It has to be under the front corner.
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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John,
Square corner of head gasket is facing front of engine.
Timing is at +8 degrees.
No shroud on fan.
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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John,
One more thing.
We only drilled an extra hole for cooling, in each head. FelPro says to drill two holes per head.
Is this a problem
Tim
Florida Ford Fan
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 7 Years Ago
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Tim:
I don't think the lack of the extra drilled hole is a problem. Look at how little water could flow through them. I think they are intended as an afterthought by gasket companies to prevent air pockets in that area. I'm at a loss now concerning the heat problem. Oh, is it possible there is a freeze plug in the front water passage into the intake because a former right head was used on the left side and the freeze plug was not removed? Or if a former left head gets on the right side and the bushing for the water temp sender is still in place providing a very small hole for water flow? Could someone have welded up the trapezoid shaped water passage for some reason in the end of the head you bought? Sorry I don't have a definitive answer, that why I'm making these guesses.
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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Hey John,
Thanks for trying.
We're going to pull the head and see what we can see.
I'll let you know what we find,
Again, THANKS !!!
Florida Ford Fan (FFF)
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 7 Years Ago
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Tim:
Another thought came to me in the middle of the night. Since the timing cover has been off, could something be blocking the hole into the front of the block, like maybe a gasket that didn't get the hole punched out?
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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John,
We'll look into that possibility about a gasket without a hole completly punched out.
Just like the "hanging chad" during the Bush/Gore election.
Tim in Florida
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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John,
Head heating problem solved. The head we installed was originally on the right and had a small coke bottle cap plug. When we installed the head, it was on the left side and we didn't remove the plug. Coolant was blocked, therefore, over heating on one side.
Problem solved.
Tim
FFF (FLORIDA FORD FAN)
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By Florida_Phil - 7 Years Ago
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Tim, do you know of any other Florida Y Block fans that would like to get together? We are in Central Florida. Thanks!
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By Hoosier Hurricane - 7 Years Ago
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Tim:
Thanks for the follow-up. Hopefully it will solve someone else's heating problem or prevent its happening to someone else.
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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All my classic friends are scruby and Dodge people.
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By Tim Quinn - 7 Years Ago
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John,
What oil do you recommend ?
Rottella 5W40 ?
Regular Oil with Lucas ZDDP additive ?
Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil ?
Regular Oil with 1 btl STP ?
Looking forward to you thoughts,
Tim in Florida.....Crown Vic w/312
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By 57RancheroJim - 7 Years Ago
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Oil type is subjective and everyone will have a different opinion. I've been running Vavoline 10-30 conventional in one engine and Joe Gibbs 10-30 in another. Thousands of miles on both and no problems. I don't believe in additives and don't buy the ZDDP BS. Any oil today still has more ZDDP then oils had in the 50-60's and with the light pressure of stock valve springs there shouldn't be a problem.
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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The fact that Ted Eaton uses Valvoline 10-40 conventional oil in his builds is good enough for me.
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By PF Arcand - 7 Years Ago
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Oil questions will bring a myrid of answers, most of them just opinions that are of little concrete use.. One thing that is factual, is that oils intended for use in "modern car engines" have by design & political influence, had their anti scuff additives reduced & are usually low viscosity oils. Those oils are usually sold with the "pinwheel gear" on the front label. Those oils are intended for modern "roller lifter" valve trains & are not the best choise for solid lifter engines, particularly for " break-in" of a solid lifter engine... Beyond that, I won't waste your time with other irrelevant opinion..
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