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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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ECZ - B intakes for what ever reason, don't have the front vacuum hookup found on 2 bbl intakes, so who makes a carb spacer that includes a place for fitting the vacuum line? And what thicknes is the spacer? It's for a 57 Ford & a thick spacer, I" or more, may not allow hood clearance for a stock air cleaner.. ( I should have thought of these issues earlier! ) And yes, I'm aware that there is access at the rear of the intake, but Ive been advised that a hookup of a PCV there is not recommended, because of a possible lean mixture issue . Info appreciated.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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It does seem like they were easier to find at one time. If you search eBay for pcv carb spacer, a few options come up.
However, you could be better off to make your own. For one, you want it to be a divided or 4-hole spacer. Second, given your search for small bore carb mounting gaskets, you want the holes to match the carb and intake. Thickness will probably be a minimum of 1" in order to fit a nipple of some kind.
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By 62bigwindow - 6 Years Ago
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On a 4 hole spacer where would the ideal place be to put a hole? Wouldn't one port be lean?
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By Talkwrench - 6 Years Ago
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You need to make the outlet between the primaries equally or yes you will have issues
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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It would have to be dead center at the front. Probably the best way is to drill to the size required to tap for the fitting, just until it breaks through to one or both of the throttle bores and then use a smaller drill bit to finish the passage to each bore, so they are equal as possible.
If you have a spare intake laying around, look at that passage on the back runners. It's drilled the way I'm trying to explain. Same idea for a pcv port in a dual plane carb spacer.
Oh, actually I do have a picture of that port.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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Paul - it's kind of expensive, but CASCO has a conversion plate (actually a kit) for a PVC. . For "B" intake, part # 6758A
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By 62bigwindow - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks Charlie. One last question. Why do you recommend putting it in the front?
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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Front will be the most centralized location with the a/f mixture in all situations. If it is placed anywhere else, the crankcase gas will favor the cylinders closest to the pcv port, which will lean those cylinders more than the rest. That's why the port at the back of the manifold is not the best idea.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Thanks everybody.. That brings to mind that if the spacer is 1" thick or more, there's the possible hood clearance issue + the "B" intake mounting studs are likely to short for any 1" spacer & the carb base, which is about 1/2" thick. And, of course the studs are N.C. on the bottom & N.F. on the top.. Back to the planning board..
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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Studs are easy to find. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/carburetor-fasteners?N=4294921312&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending&keyword=carburetor%20studs
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I found one of these spacers on ebay with with the port plumbed to the secondaries for my PCV conversion. I haven't installed it yet.
 
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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You usually can get studs at any local hardware store.
charliemccraney (3/1/2018)
Front will be the most centralized location with the a/f mixture in all situations. If it is placed anywhere else, the crankcase gas will favor the cylinders closest to the pcv port, which will lean those cylinders more than the rest. That's why the port at the back of the manifold is not the best idea.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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Looks like the CASCO unit
56_Fairlane (3/1/2018)
I found one of these spacers on ebay with with the port plumbed to the secondaries for my PCV conversion. I haven't installed it yet.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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56 fairlane; Can't that adaptor just be flipped over to work on the front of the carb? Or am I missing something?. In the meantime a local parts guy put me onto a kit listing with longer studs available from Summit/TransDapt #2103. However.. its an open spacer, which probably isn't the way to go for me, as my "B" intake is modified to Dual Oval,similar to the one that was posted with photos recently from Doug T.. Comments?
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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In general, you do not want an open spacer on a dual plane manifold. That turns a decent dual plane manifold into a mediocre single plane intake, which is not good for street performance.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Yes, I think it is a Casco. PF, it might be but I'm thinking it needs to be on the secondaries, right?
Does anyone know what PCV valve is the best one to use?
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Good point Charley McC !.. So far no luck finding 5/16" N/C/ NF thread longer studs. But local auto parts/hardware counter man said they might be able to order them? (he had 3/8" in stk) . Casco's spacer kit photo is very small & didn't appear to have longer studs with it, ? and it's $70.35 + shipping. My cost to western Canada with exchange is likely close to $150 ! Not happening! . May have to find a 1" spacer & as suggested earlier, try to alter it to work. - Thanks to everyone that contributed on this .
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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Why not use one from a Mustang? Also a 57 hood will clear with a 1" spacer and stock air cleaner.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-69-Ford-Mustang-289-302-351-4V-Carburetor-Spacer-Fast-Free-Shipping/142701117353?hash=item2139a63fa9:g:SnEAAOSw7OVakZKy&vxp=mtr
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I think I saw that one when I was looking for spacers but went with the Casco version because it's port was on the back. It was also the same price with shipping.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (3/2/2018)
I think I saw that one when I was looking for spacers but went with the Casco version because it's port was on the back. The FORD spacer shown had the vacuum inlet port installed to the rear, even though you can turn either spacer to front or rear to adapt to the application. The FORD spacer may not seal properly on the unique EZC-B carb mounting pad whereas the CASCO should, it's being machined flat and supposedly expressly for the early FORD intake. Differing size studs should be no proble, NAPA, local speed shop or SUMMIT/JEGS. Here is a photo of a CASCO KIT INSTALL-   .
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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The above install photo is not CASCO, but will give you an idea of final appearance.
It is also a 2V install using the OEM later truck PCV adaptor at the valley pan (also later production).
The idea is to have the PCV fumes go directly into the intake carb plenum for equal distribution of fumes to all cylinders and not loading up of certain cylinders by themselves, leading to plug fouling/detonation.
See how the installer has placed a phenolic spacer above the aluminum spacer for heat transfer control?
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I'm concerned about the heat transfer too. The PCV spacer is about thickness as my phenolic spacer I used before I started this conversion so I didn't change my studs. Maybe I should get longer studs to add the phenolic spacer?
I've got enough room under the hood on my '56.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (3/2/2018)
I'm concerned about the heat transfer too. The PCV spacer is about thickness as my phenolic spacer I used before I started this conversion so I didn't change my studs. Maybe I should get longer studs to add the phenolic spacer?
I've got enough room under the hood on my '56. You have the CASCO spacer now? You have a '56 with a '57 4V intake? What carb are you using? The trouble with hi-stacking carb spacers is at some point it has an effect(s) on the flow characteristics of the mixture flow. You can actually chance HP/torque by varying height. I wish I had come across this earlier as there is a phenolic spacer available 1/4" thick with the vacuum provision.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Yes I have the Casco spacer now but I haven't tried running the engine with it yet. I don't think it would be too tall to affect anything but heat transfer if I added the '57 phenolic spacer. It would probably only be about an inch thick if I added it. I realized I'd need another carb gasket if I did. I still have a few more things to do before I can start it up.
I'm running an Autolite 4100.
We've talked about my carb at the Barn or the HAMB before. 
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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57 R jim; Appreciate your suggestion, but as pointed out, the non flat underside of the Ford spacer likely won't match up with the raised edge B intake.. Kultulz; thanks for the excellent photo of an installation. I have a later valley pan to allow the PCV connection at the rear. However, I'm not going with an actual Casco setup due to the delivered cost here. Still looking into an alternative. The other concern that needs clarification for me is, the connection thru to the rear venturies of the carb?. Since the rear plates are closed normally, will the system work properly ?
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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If the spacer is installed so that the port is on the secondary side, it will still be exposed to manifold vacuum so it will probably be ok in that respect.
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By paul2748 - 6 Years Ago
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I get 5/16 NC/NF studs at my local Sears Hardware store.
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By Ted - 6 Years Ago
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I’ll suggest putting the PCV hookup in the rear of the carb spacer rather than at the front. The vacuum signal is the same on both ends of the spacer and with the hookup at the back, there is more room under most carburetors at the secondary side. The PCV hose will also be better hidden and out of the way. The other option is to use the 3/8” nipple on the carb base if it has one. That particular nipple is suitable either for a PCV hookup or power brakes. It’s always a good idea to keep the power brakes and the PCV on separate connections if you have both.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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VERY GOOD INFO POSTED HERE-
PF Arcand (2/26/2018)
Scott: If you are presumably using a ECZ-B manifold & still dealing with the carb situation, before you spend more money on it..take the carb off & make sure you have a proper seal to the intake. Due to the raised design of the intake flange, larger 4 Bbl carb gaskets such as a #55 will barely seal if at all, causing a vacuum leak..
56_Fairlane (3/2/2018)
Yes I have the Casco spacer now but I haven't tried running the engine with it yet. I don't think it would be too tall to affect anything but heat transfer if I added the '57 phenolic spacer. It would probably only be about an inch thick if I added it. I realized I'd need another carb gasket if I did. I still have a few more things to do before I can start it up. I'm running an Autolite 4100. We've talked about my carb at the Barn or the HAMB before.
56 Fairlane-
As long as yours is not assembled yet, can you give the ID of the carb mounting throttle bores and the 4100 throttle bores, as well as the CASCO spacer?
I am trying to cipher on something...
.
OH!
On the actual valve. I would try to find NOS as it is machined and can be serviced regularly as opposed to a cheap aftermarket which may not be calibrated correctly.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Kultulz, sorry I finished putting it together yesterday. All the throttle bores were about the same size, including the carb. As you might recall from my other posts at the Barn, I'm using a '57 model 4100 Autolite with 1.08 venturis if that helps.
Hmm, which NOS PCV valve are you suggesting? I've read people have tried using different ones ranging from one from a 2.3L to the 460?
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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PCV valve that can be tuned to the engine, and serviced regularly: http://mewagner.com/
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (3/4/2018)
You are correct but a little overkill for a 56 driver maybe? DF-17 Dual Flow PCV ValveFeatures patented Dual Flow technology (US Pat. No. 9,376,945). $129.00
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (3/4/2018)
Hmm, which NOS PCV valve are you suggesting? I've read people have tried using different ones ranging from one from a 2.3L to the 460?
Can you show a photo of the final PCV System Install?
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I still need to get a hose and PCV installed to finish the installation. It may be a bit difficult to get a good photo. I had to search a little to find the teapot adapter that goes on the valley cover after I had the carb installed.
I'll try to take a photo of what I've put together so far next time I work on it.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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I've seen posted that a Ford 289 PCV works good on a Y-block, but I can't confirm it...
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (3/8/2018)
I've seen posted that a Ford 289 PCV works good on a Y-block, but I can't confirm it...
What I was suggesting is the actual valve used by FORD (C1TZ 6A666-A) on this period Y-BLOCK (61/64) with an unmodified engine trying to maintain a stock appearance. But, the problem what I have found is that NOS is depleting quickly and prices are out of reason.
People discussing using different applications are usually concerned with a low vacuum engine (camshaft selection, etc) and trying to find an OEM/aftermarket valve which would be compatible.
So, depending on how the OP decides to plumb the installation will determine the type/design of the valve selected. You would then test/monitor crankcase pressure with a vacuum gauge for proper operation.
    l
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Prices are all over the place for the valve. It's still less expensive than that nice adjustable valve but I would still have figure a way to fabricate the pipe that screws on to the valve. I'm thinking maybe to go with an OEM 289 valve since it's close in displacement to the 292.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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There are 2 currently on eBay for about $50. The rest are more than the brand new adjustable one. You would also want to verify that rebuild parts are available for the NOS one if serviceability is a requirement. A problem with NOS gaskets and seals is that they shrink over time, so recently manufactured would be ideal for that.
It looks like there are cheaper, newer, aftermarket alternatives, as well.
It would be interesting to perform an actual test with various valves. On the MEWagner site, they do, however, we can't know how honest it is since they want to sell their pcv valve. http://mewagner.com/?p=1130
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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Here's what my installation looks like so far. I'm also using a later type distributor. The advance has a vacuum hose nipple instead of a nut type connection which I wish it had.
I sure was hard to get any good photos back there.
 
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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As far as stock appearance goes as mentioned, unless the vehicle is 1961-62 or later, there is no stock appearance factor possible. In our jurisdiction, (Britsh Columbia) even on a stock collector license plate, emission control mods are allowed, along with things like seat belts & later legal lighting, for safety reasons... And I'm also having a bit of a time even getting a suitable spacer locally with the vacuum port, that isn't a square open one, which as Charlie McC pointed out, is not desirable on a dual plane intake. The Casco conversion kit brought in here is far to costly, but I've located longer 5/16" NC/NF studs & am still looking into it.. Thanks to everybody that has contributed on this subject.
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By 57RancheroJim - 6 Years Ago
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Maybe it's my old eyes but in the illustration KULTLUZ posted it looks like the one for the 2V and 4V are facing in opposite directions. As far as I know the valve only works in one direction?
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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PF Arcand (3/9/2018)
As far as stock appearance goes as mentioned, unless the vehicle is 1961-62 or later, there is no stock appearance factor possible. What is being discussed here is how to improve crankcase ventilation on an older application to a better and more efficient system, i.e., OEM 61-64 PCV. If done correctly (what is trying to be determined here), few would even see the install and most if they did notice would hopefully not fully realize what has been done. The road draft system(s) used were woefully inadequate. What the OP is attempting is to rid himself of the '56 H4000 (this is a '56 he has) and go with a later style carb (in this instance a '57 FORD 4100) and try to keep the appearance as close as possible to the OEM look (1957 in this instance). I guess it could be referred to as resto-mod?
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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57RancheroJim (3/9/2018)
Maybe it's my old eyes but in the illustration KULTLUZ posted it looks like the one for the 2V and 4V are facing in opposite directions. As far as I know the valve only works in one direction? No, your eyes are working. What is shown on the 4V install is the OEM design for the MD/HD TRUCK 292 engine. The valve is plumbed correctly as the internal spring will regulate opening/closing but I have a feeling that if not serviced regularly it may hang open at times. Not the way I would do it but hey, they got rich and I didn't... 
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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...you know something?
This ILL is showing the carb spacer needed and it was most likely phenolic on top of that. I don't have a TRUCK MPC for the period but if you GOOGLED the PN, I bet one would show.
Supposedly, FORD used a unique 4V intake for the 292 4V Truck engine but in most instances I have read claim it was an ECZ-B.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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There are several alternatives- Here is one. It needs to be baffled.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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^^^I've seen that photo before when I researched a PCV modification but saw would be extremely difficult since it required drilling the block. You would certainly need to do it on a bare block that could be cleaned of the metal shavings. Baffling it would be another challenge.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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I think the easiest easy out of it now that you actually have the CASCO spacer itself is to plumb in a double nipple valve as shown below. The 6A665 adapter moves the hose around the rear vacuum inlet on the rear of the intake. Just try to mount the valve vertical @ the bottom and not horizontal towards the spacer nipple.
If you notice on the 4V install, there is a metal tube that allows rising and cooling of the vapors and allows them to drop towards the valve instead of being ingested.
I can't read the maker of the valve but try to buy a quality one such as STANDARD, NIEHOFF or AC DELCO.
Mount the OEM phenolic spacer above the alum one and you should have it.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I'm not sure of I want to add the phenolic spacer. I want to try it out as I currently have it. Would there be that much extra heat getting to carb using the Casco spacer alone?
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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56_Fairlane (3/12/2018)
I'm not sure of I want to add the phenolic spacer. I want to try it out as I currently have it. Would there be that much extra heat getting to carb using the Casco spacer alone?
No problem. Try it and see how she does, If you experience cold hard start or fuel percolation, maybe consider one then.
FORD used the phenolic spacer on the 57 with the FORD and CARTER carbs and an aluminum spacer with the HOLLEY.
You shouldn't have to worry about hood clearance as it is a '56 (high hood) and you are using a later low profile ACL.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I had cold start problems even with the phenolic spacer. I'm in the habit of pouring a little 2-stroke gas down the carb before I start it. I've actually done that with most carbed vehicles I've recently owned.
I'm not worried at all about the hood clearance. I'm real anxious to get this little project done.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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I don't know if this has been covered but the road draft assembly needs to be removed (or blocked off) to make the PCV functional.
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By 56_Fairlane - 6 Years Ago
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I bought that exact same part. The seller on ebay only has a few left.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/311350594328
Apparently there is also a block off plate used on VW bug engines that also fits.
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By charliemccraney - 6 Years Ago
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I get 1 1/2" for the throttle bores of the B intake, using a tape measure.
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By KULTULZ - 6 Years Ago
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charliemccraney (3/15/2018)
I get 1 1/2" for the throttle bores of the B intake, using a tape measure.
THANX!
I forgot to ask if the CASCO spacer covered the bores correctly and if he found the correct gasket.
GASKET- CARB MTG - B7A 9447-B (1957 4V 312) - BEST 6151A
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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A late folow up - All I can say is that the $8.00+ tax Mr. Gasket #55 has 1-3/4" inch holes which barely cover on a ECZ-B, if at all. Ted Eaton put me onto Interface N-8092 & Armstrong VB72 gaskets, which are 1-5/8" hole gaskets & definately fit better.. Thanks very much Ted!
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Block off Plate for Road Draft Tube can just be a cup type Frost Plug and 2 bolts with flat Washers to fill the Tapped Holes in the Block. Simple and cheap.
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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 e]PF Arcand (2/28/2018)
ECZ - B intakes for what ever reason, don't have the front vacuum hookup found on 2 bbl intakes, so who makes a carb spacer that includes a place for fitting the vacuum line? And what thicknes is the spacer? It's for a 57 Ford & a thick spacer, I" or more, may not allow hood clearance for a stock air cleaner.. ( I should have thought of these issues earlier! ) And yes, I'm aware that there is access at the rear of the intake, but Ive been advised that a hookup of a PCV there is not recommended, because of a possible lean mixture issue . Info appreciated.
Paul I don't know if this is helpful but Trans Dapt 2584 spacer Plate is available on Amazon.ca for about $52.00 CDN including shipping.Has the hookup for PCV Hose. Doesn't give Bore size in description but it would be available maybe on the Trans Dapt Site.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Mark; Thanks, but I guess I've put the cart in front of the horse somewhat, as I bought longer mounting bolts & now have correct gaskets. Just need the spacer. Just waiting to hear from a possible local source.. Also, thanks for the frostplug tip.
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By PF Arcand - 6 Years Ago
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Mark: Thanks, I bought the Trans dapt 2584 spacer with the vacuum port, thru a B.C. parts outfit, Lordco, over the counter for about the same price. Unfortunately, the size of bore openings is somewhat big. However, my "B" intake is dual ovaled & I was able to trim the gasket & taper the mounting area slightly (it's not on the car) with the Die Grinder to reduce reasonably well the mismatch. Now however, as the spacer is 1" thick I'm trying to calculate if I've got enough hood clearance on my 57 car, with a stock air cleaner?.. It's going to be close!..
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By oldcarmark - 6 Years Ago
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Good. Glad that worked out. Buy some Play-Doh or similar and make a Ball and set it on Top of the Air Cleaner. Slowly close the Hood and Latch it. Open the Hood and the Play-Doh should be compressed and show how much clearance You have.
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