adapt aod transmission into 1956 ford f-100 v 8


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By raywarr55 - 7 Years Ago
aod transmission into 1956 ford f-100 312 v 8
By dbird - 7 Years Ago
Check this link     http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic128368.aspx.

 I'm having a different issue, getting the trans pan to clear the crossmember under the bell housing, but it's definately doable.

Don
By MoonShadow - 7 Years Ago
I used the Bendetson adapter several years ago and it worked quite well. Comes with a bolt up high torque starter and everything you need. Bit pricey but right. You will have to modify the transmission mount and have a drive shaft made. Also, the AOD is very sensitive to setup of the TVI cable, I used a Lokar linkage for mine but you still need to set the pressure in the transmission before driving. If its not correct the transmission will burn up in a few blocks. For daily driving I still think the AOD is the way to go. You can also run a stouter gear in the rear axle and compensate with the overdrive. With 3:80's I'm running around 2300 rpm at 70. Eventually I'll put in some 4:10's. There is also the 4R70W transmission. If you get one from behind a small block Ford it is not electronic. The AOD soft spots have been upgraded in this transmission and its much better. Possibly easier to find too.
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
Did you guys modify the tranny/motor mounts or modify the floor boards to make clearance for the AOD in the cab floor?
By MoonShadow - 7 Years Ago
I put mine in a car but there was plenty of room. I think the AOD is actually smaller than the FordOMatic,
By 57RancheroJim - 7 Years Ago
Outlaws issue is this is in a truck, the truck chassis and cross members are completely different then a car. The major cross member at the bell housing location is the issue if I'm understanding this correctly. It appears it interferes with AOD trans.
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/bc3e0b8d-9468-4763-b25e-229f.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/243cf2c1-7f4b-4b16-bf2c-24c5.jpghttp://forums.y-blocksforever.com/uploads/images/96e97239-d02a-4493-b513-afd2.jpg
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
You are correct Jim. The top photo above shows original front motor mount. 2nd photo shows stock cross member where stock manual transmission bell housing mounted. Bottom photo shows after market transmission adapter for AOD tailshaft. When engine mounted at fron and rear, it rocks back and forth like  rocking horse. I was considering using the mid engine mounts to add T-bird stabilizers, but they are just a cushioned rod and I want more stability. Now Im looking at the other alternative for the front mount that has more stability side to side, but I cant get the frame parts that hold the motor mounts to the cross members. Would have to fabricate something. Now Im looking at some fabricating on the front mount (improve side to side stability over center mount), and using the stock engine insulators mid block and fabricating a stronger block to frame rail mount. In addition. Im considering removing that main stock cross member and fabricating a drop in it to give more clearance to the AOD. The way everything sits right now, I only have 1/4" clearance from the opening in the front floor pan cover.
By charliemccraney - 7 Years Ago
Since a 6cyl is longer, the front crossmember must be different for them.  A 6cyl front crossmember will probably make it easier to use the 2-bolt front mount and probably allow you to position it at the height you desire.  On the rear crossmember, if you box in the bottom and then trim the top for extra clearance, that would probably maintain the integrity and give the clearance you're after.  If trimming that crossmember removes too much that boxing with plate is questionable, use steel U channel to box in the bottom, at least near the thinnest areas..
By 57RancheroJim - 7 Years Ago
I agree, I don't think there is anyway around modifying the cross member to clear the trans. Just keep in mind that if you drop the rear of the trans and the engine is still at the stock height at the front that will throw your drive line angle out, another can of worms I went through helping a friend with that.
I don't think the front cross member was different between the Y and I6, just the mount it's self was different, I know there was no difference on the 57-60 models.
By MoonShadow - 7 Years Ago
Can you use the old Hurst style mount in the front? I have one available. Chuck
  Image result for hurst y block motor mount
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
Does it bolt to a Y block? It looks like the plate may intefere with the A/C bracket.
By 57RancheroJim - 7 Years Ago
You said you only have a 1/4 inch clearance, how much to you need? I'm lazy and would probably mount the body up a little higher on the frame  LOL
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
I honestly dont know, but I know when you step on the gas,  most engines should have more than 1/4" clearance. I wont know for sure until I have it properly mounted and see what the tolerance is.
By miker - 7 Years Ago
I'm not quite sure I understand where the interference is, but the side rods on the T-birds provide plenty of stability. FPA headers use a heim joint off the header flange. I don't know how they clear the rams horns, but you could make something work. There's at least one bird out there with the FPA set up that can pull a front wheel, that should be stable enough.

With that set up, I also think a 1/4" clearance to the tunnel would probably be ok. I've run drivetrains closer than that in some vehicles.
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
Thanks miker. I dont think I need a lot, just a more than 1/4 for insurance. 
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
My thinking on modification of that main cross member was to remove it, place it in a jig and bolt it together just like it sits in the frame rails stock. Then cut the center section out and lengthen it so it looks stock, but has more clearance under the transmission,. If I lower the engine one inch, what kind of issues am I looking at with compatibility with stock radiator?
By raywarr55 - 7 Years Ago
hi moon shadow.
I do have two sets of 331 hemi heads.
(401)294-7599
thanks ray.
By 57RancheroJim - 7 Years Ago
I doubt 1" would have much effect. Depending on the clearance between the bottom of the radiator and the support you could probably redrill the radiator mounting holes to move it down.
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
I think 1" would help a lot.
By Outlaw56 - 7 Years Ago
Miker, the clearance issue is the top of the AOD is close to touching the floor board (bellhousing floors cover) right where it meets the firewall at 12:00 oclock. Moving the engine forward and or lower would clear it.
By Butch Lawson - 7 Years Ago
MoonShadow,
PM sent.