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By stuey - 7 Years Ago
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Calling all f100 owners,
I'm talking about the steering spindle arm, how does it come off? Is it a taper fit , splined, keyed or even threaded?
It would be nice to know before resorting to ever bigger hammers or excessive heat.
Thanks in advance. Much appreciated.
stuey
UK
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By paul2748 - 7 Years Ago
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I'm assuming your talking about the tie rod end. It's probably tapered as all Ford products were. One way to do it is with a pickle fork. There are specific pullers to do the job. Banging on the tie rod end will only ruin the top part so you cannot put the nut back on. Been there, done that.
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By stuey - 7 Years Ago
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Thanks for the response.
The part I'm trying to remove is the horse shoe shaped part that the tie rod is attached to. It is held in place with a castellated nut that requires a 1-1/4 inch socket. I've removed the nut but the part refuses to budge.
stuey
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By Bob Gardner - 7 Years Ago
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I have never removed mine so I have to ask...why are you trying to remove it? The Ford Truck Shop Manual doesn't explain how to remove one...there is an exploded view drawing that shows the part you are referring to. The drawing shows the arm as having a stepped cylindrical shaft with two different shaft sizes the go into a bore in the splindle. I looked on my truck and didn't see any type of locking pin (like the king pin and shackles) that would keep it from rotating. If you really need to remove the arm, I would soak the area in penetrating oil to loosing it up. I am guessing that the spindle and arm were put together as bare metal and some rust bonding has occured over time.
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By dbird - 7 Years Ago
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From pictures in catalogs, it looks to be tapered. When I was redoing my front suspension, I looked at it and thought better of even trying to get it out. Since you've already tried heat and hammers and probably a combination of both, I can only see damage in the future. If the front axle is still assembled and on the truck, you might try reattaching the drag link and with the tires on the ground working it back and forth with the steering wheel to loosen it. First, if you haven't already, see what you can find out on the Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forum for additional input.
Don
55 Thunderbird, 56 F100 in progress
Modesto, CA
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By 2721955meteor - 7 Years Ago
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oxey and acetylene, quick heat on the spindle with nut backed off small amount, back with a 5lb hamer. slow heat won't do.also some luck
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By miker - 7 Years Ago
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We had a similar problem on a friend's 56 scrub. Do just like meteor says. But my long time mechanic friend said keep doing it. The heating/cooling cycle causes expansion, and that breaks down the rust bond. We must have done 5-6 cycles with no effect, then it just came off. Good luck.
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By stuey - 7 Years Ago
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Thanks everybody.
Having just centre punched both parts to maintain alignment, under the paint and grime, I spotted a flat that locates the arm and prevents it rotating. Like the shackle pins.
So I think I'm dealing with a corrosion issue and I think heat is the answer. Now I need more gas.
Wanted to remove the part for powder coating.
stuey
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By OlWeldinrig - 7 Years Ago
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stuey (2/5/2017)
Thanks everybody. Having just centre punched both parts to maintain alignment, under the paint and grime, I spotted a flat that locates the arm and prevents it rotating. Like the shackle pins. So I think I'm dealing with a corrosion issue and I think heat is the answer. Now I need more gas. Wanted to remove the part for powder coating. stuey
A friend of mine who works on a lot of early T stuff has shown me how a drop or two of oil will penetrate even the most stuck front end parts including perches that are always a pain.He never gets anything red hot but there's a point where the drops of oil will simply absorb into the tightest places.This too will take a few cycles and not overheat your tempered parts.At the right temp its almost like a wick.
Dave
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By stuey - 7 Years Ago
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Thanks everybody. Both sides are off.
I purchased two sacrificial 7/8 unf nuts. Interestingly they needed a 1- 5/16 socket where the original needed a 1 - 1/4 socket . 4 or 5 heat cycles and copious applications of Gibbs penetrant and an enthusiastic application of a 3lb club hammer they were off. Once they started to move they came off relatively easy. No signs of corrosion.
Makes me wonder why I fussed so much. Guess it's the not knowing.
Thanks
stuey
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By 2721955meteor - 7 Years Ago
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heat from oxy and acetaline a very import tool for old stuff. congrats on your success
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