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By mustangdude86 - 9 Years Ago
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Hi guys,
I'm having difficulty finding definitive methods, or threads, to swapping out my 54 mercury 256 distributor to a 57+ if that's the way to go. I am also reading that I would need to modify the original carb after doing the distributor. I also think I remember hearing that the oil pump would need changed with the newer type distributor.
The end game here is to really get a more modern carb, maybe even efi from edelbrock, and a more modern dizzy. Links would be greatly appreciated to clear up some of the confusion.
Some side notes, if I get the dizzy swapped, can it be used with modern pointless, cap and rotor stuff? Also do they still make adapters to bolt on a modern carb to the existing intake? at some point I would like to get an aluminum intake for it that already accepts a modern carb. But I believe that the heads would need changed, along other things. Not in the realm of realistic right now.
Thanks in advance
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By Dobie - 9 Years Ago
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Yes, you will need to modify the original carb to work with a late model dizzy. I'm not up on the details on that but I'm sure several others who have done it will chime in. You will not need to change the oil pump itself, but you may need to change the pump drive shaft if the distributor has the slot drive tangs. The later dizzies use a hex drive so you will need the corresponding O/P drive shaft. Also compare distributor gear tooth count with the original and swap 'em if needed. Pertronix and others make electronic conversions for either the Loadomatic or later dizzies in either 6 or 12v, although the 6v ones may be special order items. Carb adapters are available from Speedway Motors and other sources; I suggest you also get a phenolic spacer for the carb. It reduces fuel percolation and hard hot starting and gives a noticeable increase in low and mid range torque. Not sure if later heads will fit correctly, the 239 and 256 are different from later blocks in some areas. Someone here will have the specifics.
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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You do not have to modify the carb. The '57 up distributor is mechanical advance and therefore works with any carb. The vacuum on the '57 up distributor is for economy so you can either leave it disconnected until you get the newer carb or you can tap into an existing manifold vacuum source, if there is one.
You may need to swap the distributor gear, and if it is currently the blade drive for the pump shaft, then you will need a hex shaft and oil pump to match the new distributor.
The newer distributor can be used with electronic ignitions. A Duraspark cap and rotor fits, but is not absolutely necessary.
There are adapters for fitting almost any carb onto any intake.
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By mustangdude86 - 9 Years Ago
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Thanks for the responses. So to clarify, if I swap in the newer distributor, it will work with the 54 carb?
I have the opportunity to buy a mostly complete 292 minus generator, carb, and starter. But I think it would simplify a lot of things swapping over to the 256. Kinda would like to keep the 256 but just "modernize" it as much as possible, since it still runs pretty good
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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Correct, the new distributor will work with the '54 carb. Just do not connect the distributors vacuum advance to the vacuum port used for the original distributor. Either leave the vacuum advance disconnected until you get the new carb or find a manifold vacuum source for it.
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By paul2748 - 9 Years Ago
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If it was my choice, I would modify the carb to take advantage of the 57 and later distributor. A very easy modification. I did this on my 56
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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Here’s the link to the Y-Block Magazine article that goes into detail on how to modify the Teapot 4V carb so that the distributor vacuum port at the carburetor is compatible with the ’57 and newer distributors.
http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2013/03/02/modifying-the-holley-teapot-four-barrel-carb-for-late-model-distributors/
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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Ressurecting this year old thread....sorry guys. My priorities got side tracked.
I'd like to get this thing running reliably. I still think my best course of action would be to updated to 57 distributor and modern carb. The teapots choke is froze open so it takes some effort to get the thing running and stay running. Also its leaking gas which I hear they are notorious for.
Any idea what adapter I would need to buy from Speedway Motors to get a 4160 style modern carb on it? Any cfm suggestions?
Also I'm assuming I can't use the 54 distributor with a modern carb. Is that really as simple as using the old gear? I heard I might need to mess with the oil pump drive too.
If I had it my way, it would have a 302 in it. But its my dads car, and he likes the idea of the y.
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By DryLakesRacer - 8 Years Ago
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You can replace the distributor with a later year as described. If you don't want to go the adapter route and can find a Cad, Olds,
Packard, Dodge, Plymouth, Carter WCFB small base 4 Barrel it will bolt right on and can use the vacuum advance of the 57-up distrib. There will be some linkage adjustments to be made but it's not to hard. It was the first thing I did to my 56-292. I used a 53 Cad Carb. Here are 2 photos. 
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By paul2748 - 8 Years Ago
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Reread the posts above.
To run the 57 Distributor:
Put 54 gear on the 57 distributor. Change the oil pump to a 55 or later. Use the 55 and up hex drive shaft for the oil pump.
Adapters for the later carb are available from Summitt, Jeggs and Speedway. I don't have a part number.
No, the 54 distributor will not work with the later carb.
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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Ok thanks, I wasn't trying to make you guys repeat already stated info, so sorry for that. Just wanted confirmation.
Will the 57+ manifolds work on this motor? or are modifications required? And do the 57+ manifolds accept the "modern" holley 4150 carbs? This is just for future reference in case the adapter i bought from Thunderbird Headquarters doesn't work like I want it. It adapts a 57+ carb to the earlier manifold.
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By Dobie - 8 Years Ago
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The '57 + manifold will bolt up but you may have sealing issues as the ports may not line up exactly with the head's ports. It will accept the Holley 4150 and other carbs without needing an adapter. I suggest using a phenolic spacer to keep the exhaust the heat from the crossover passage from boiling the gas out of the carb.
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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Dobie (6/20/2016)
The '57 + manifold will bolt up but you may have sealing issues as the ports may not line up exactly with the head's ports. It will accept the Holley 4150 and other carbs without needing an adapter. I suggest using a phenolic spacer to keep the exhaust the heat from the crossover passage from boiling the gas out of the carb.
Would you suggest that if I use the adapter I mentioned too?
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By Dobie - 8 Years Ago
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You shouldn't need the adapter for the '57 and later manifold. The adapter is only needed when installing a '57 and later carb on the '56 and earlier manifold due to the mismatch of the bores in the manifold to the carb's wider spaced bores.
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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How I meant to ask is, if I go with the adapter route, since it's already shipped, vs finding a later model intake, would you still recommend a phenolic spacer? Or would the adapter serve that purpose?
This isn't going to be a hi-po set up. Just trying to get it starting and running reliably.
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By GREENBIRD56 - 8 Years Ago
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Some sort of thermal "break" is a good idea if you wish to avoid a situation where fuel is boiling out of the carb after shut-down. It doesn't have to be huge in thickness to do the job - Edelbrock used to sell a 3/16 thick gasket (for the later Holley pattern) and that often cured the boil out on those. Maybe multiple gaskets clamped under your adapter will do the trick? Just be sure they aren't hanging out into the bores.
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By Dobie - 8 Years Ago
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I use an adapter on my '55 Merc only because it still has the original intake manifold and I'm running an Edelbrock carb. The adapter will not solve the fuel boiling issue since it's made of aluminum, so I also use a 1" phenolic spacer between the carb and adapter. No issues with boiling fuel and a side benefit is snappier throttle response. I'd recommend a phenolic spacer even if the carb and manifold match without an adapter.
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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Thanks a lot!
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By charliemccraney - 8 Years Ago
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The only issue with spacers is hood clearance - you want to make sure you will still be able to close the hood.
I'm fairly certain phenolic spacers are available as thin as 1/4". If you are using a 4 hole adapter, then you also want to use a 4 hole spacer and ideally, you want to blend them together so that there is a smooth transition from one to the other.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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You can block the Heat crossover with a piece of Tin when You have the Manifold off if you do change the Manifold. The crossover was needed in cold Weather to warm up the Manifold faster. That and a Phenolic Spacer solves a lot of the problem.
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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Thanks for the replies and info.
As far as the distributor goes, is it worth adding that the car has been converted to 12 volt? Not sure if that effects anything.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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Doesn't make a difference unless you are using Pertronix.
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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I'm not sure I'm entirely familiar with that? Is that 12v vs 6v coil?
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By charliemccraney - 8 Years Ago
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It does make a difference.
With 12v points ignition, a ballast resistor is needed. With 6v, no resistor is needed.
Electronic ignition conversions are too varied to generalize. Simply follow the instructions for the 12v conversion you choose.
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By oldcarmark - 8 Years Ago
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You are right Charlie. He will also need the 12 Volt Solenoid and wire a bypass to Coil for Starting. Otherwise the Ballast resistor will fry the first time it is started..
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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See here's the thing, my dad had this thing converted to 12V almost 2 decades ago. So I haven't a clue as to what it's current state is.
My dad does remember the guy telling him something about it using some sort of tractor coil that uses 6V to start and 12V running. I could have that backwards, but it's something like that.
My plan was to go with the conversion that the guy at FBO systems does http://www.4secondsflat.com/Ford%20Y-Block%20Distributors.htm
My understanding is that they supply to coil needed after converting my distributor with the new parts. Keeping the original shaft so it plugs back in the original location and works fine.
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By mustangdude86 - 8 Years Ago
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I've been hunting to find instructions on how to pull out my distributor to send it in for conversion with no luck. Any hints, ideas, recommendations on how to do this, and then reinstall it properly?
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