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By jdwilker - 9 Years Ago
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Getting ready to pull the 292 engine and auto tranny out of my '57 Skyliner and wondered if anybody has done this by pulling them in one piece? The heads and manifolds are already off. I learned a trick years ago that by jacking up the rear end you can gain access to everything underneath and that by having it nose down, it's easier to get both out. Any tips would be appreciated.
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By ponymare - 9 Years Ago
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I've watched as well as helped my uncle pull lots of older engines, he removes the radiator, drops the trans cross member, put a drive shaft yoke in the trans housing, and pulls it. He uses a carb to manifold pulling plate, with an adjustable pulling rig, he can get just the right angle for engine alone, or engine trans combo.
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By slumlord444 - 9 Years Ago
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The adjustable pulling rig is the key. Not sure what it is actually called but it has a long threaded vertical bolt that lets you easily tilt the engine to most any angle you want to get the assembly in and out easily. Bought mine at a swap meet q while back. Pulled the engine and trans on my Bird and re installed it with the 4 speed to fit the mounts and linkage. Then pulled it back out for paint and rebuild on the engine. Works great. Able to get it in and out by myself without hitting anything or physically straining my aging body.
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By Dave V - 9 Years Ago
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Would this procedure work with a T5 5speed on a Y-block going in to a 56 Victoria? DaveV
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By miker - 9 Years Ago
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This is a link to an engine hoist leveler-one of many. The key to using these is having a hoist tall enough to compensate for the height of the leveler with the chains. If you're pulling the engine and Trans, it also needs a long enough base to not tip when everything is level. Last time I used one, on a yblock and T-5, I had an overhead chain hoist on a I beam with rollers. Slick as it gets.
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Performance-Tool-W41036-Deluxe-Engine-Leveler,6040.html
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By Dave V - 9 Years Ago
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Miker I also have the overhead hoist on I-beam with rollers. You're right. Very slick. I was just wondering if there are any clearance issues in the engine bay with this procedure. DaveV
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By miker - 9 Years Ago
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We had the car maybe 12-18 inches up on jack stands, and the combo went right in. Had a high ceiling, so total height was no problem. The leveler works a lot better with a air wrench, I'm not young or strong enough for a speed handle. If it went in a bird, I wouldnt expect a problem with a Vicky. Having the chassis up on the stands gives plenty of lower clearance-the tail shaft doesn't ground out as you lower everything in, then level and postion it on the mounts.
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By dbird - 9 Years Ago
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My only concern about pulling both together would be the weight of the tranny. With the heads and intake off, it's likely to be very tail heavy. I pulled mine separately, which was easy, but I was amazed at the weight of the Ford-o-matic, easily twice that of the C4 that went back in. I did go back in as one piece with no problem.
Don
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By miker - 9 Years Ago
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Good point. I haven't pulled a fordo since 1968. With the 3/4 ton leveler, and a stout overhead beam, it would be ok. But you're going to need a really big cherry picker if you don't have a beam . The one I had access to was for pulling big blocks and autos out of vans, IIRC, but that was a long time ago. Might be better to rig a support under the trans, separate them, and pull the motor. I had a friend back then that could bench press 350 or so, and I think he took that fordo out. With the T-5, no problem.
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By slumlord444 - 9 Years Ago
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I am going to be re installing mine with the toploader trans shortly. Have the intake installed. Concerned about hoisting the assembly hooked to a plate bolted to an aluminum intake 1/4' bolts in an aluminum manifold. Planning on building a plate to mount to both carb mounting bases using 8, 1/4" bolts in the aluminum intake. Still a little concerned. When I pulled it I had a chain hooked to 2, 3/8" bolts in the steel head and have used this often in the past without problems. Am I being overly cautious?
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By slumlord444 - 9 Years Ago
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Anyone?
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By charliemccraney - 9 Years Ago
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You're being overly cautious. An aluminum intake and 3 or 4 bolts will support the weight just fine
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By Ted - 9 Years Ago
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While I don’t have any issues in using a carburetor lift plate to pick up just the engine, I’d be uncomfortable using that to pick up both an engine and transmission as a unit. And especially where the intake manifold is aluminum. If doing it this way, then be sure to use all four bolts and make sure the bolts are long enough to catch at least a 1/2" of thread in each hole.
If it’s a dual quad intake, then using a specialty lift plate and fastening with all eight carburetor bolts would make me more comfortable. An option here is to use two individual lift plates bolted to the intake interconnected with a single chain which would give some latitude on achieving the desired angle going into the chassis. My preference would be to use a lift chain that has four connecting points that would bolt to the corners of the engine. Even better would be one of those engine lifts that is adjustable in regards to the tilt so that the angle could be changed as the engine and transmission combo can be leveled out once it’s lowered in the chassis.
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By 5d6fairlane - 9 Years Ago
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 I just pulled complete motor and factory automatic with exhaust manifolds and installed another motor with c4 in under an hour total by myself with most of the time spent moving the lift equipment. I used one of those chain straps with the crank attacked to the back holes on the heads and I made some lifting straps about three inches long with 3/8 holes to bolt to timing cover and the to chain. You will need a longer bolt next to distributor and be sure and put crank on saddle towards windshield.
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By slumlord444 - 9 Years Ago
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That all looks familiar. I dug out my engine leveler, the same one you have, today. Had not looked at if since I trial fitted the 4 speed about 2 years ago. I will use the back holes in the head like you did. may use intake bolts on the front. Have to look at the front cover bolts. Never thought about using those. Love that gadget. Like you, was able to slide the engine and trans in and out by my self with no issues. Wish I had invented it. Probably won't drop it in until after my Florida vacation next week. Got some painting and detail work to do on the underside of the floor and frame before I put it in. Great advice here as usual. Feel a lot better doing it that way than using bolting to the carb base, especially with the aluminum intake.
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By petew - 9 Years Ago
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I think it was hot rod magazine that did a test years ago on the engine pulling hook devices that bolt in place of the carburetor. It took several thousand pounds of force to tear up the plates or tear the studs from the intake . Iron or aluminum. They scare the crap out of me but I have had several Y blocks with transmissions and FE's with transmissions swinging from them.
As was mentioned earlier be certain that you have healthy threads in the intake and good thread engagement . Other thing is to buy a good carb plate pulling tool. Mine came from Lakewood , is nice and thick and has good welds. Some of the offshore units that I have seen have thin steel and cold welds.
I have also found that by jacking the rear of the vehicle up , supporting the rear axle with stands and leaving the front end on the ground makes the removal / installation of the engine and trans unit easier since it decreases the angle when pulling the assembly out of the hole.
Just my 2 cents but this is stuff that has worked for me.
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By zuburg - 8 Years Ago
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I've been reading some of the posts about removing a 292 with transmission from a '56 Tbird. I will have a cherry picker engine hoist, but I am worried about how much height is required above the cherry picker. Is there any chance I can pull the engine and transmission using a cherry picker in a typical home garage under the open garage door? If not, I guess I will have to push the car out into the driveway, pull the engine and transmission and push the car back into the garage. This is not the time of year I would want to do that.
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By Lord Gaga - 8 Years Ago
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I've done that on a '57 passenger car, you shouldn't have any problem on your Bird.
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By jdwilker - 8 Years Ago
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As the originator of this post, maybe I should throw out an update as to how it worked for me. I did this in my garage using a cherry picker with a leveler and pulled the engine and tranny as one piece. With the help of my daughter and son in law, the whole assembly came out with no problems. I did jack up the rear end and had just enough room to clear radiator mount/frame. Pulling it just a little at a time and adjusting the leveler as we went along, we got it up and out, rolling it out the open garage door. When it came time to put it all back in, this time the engine was complete with the heads on, but not the intake manifold. My connection points for the lift were the intake manifold studs and they held the load without a hitch. By going a little at a time, adjusting the leveler as we went, the assembly dropped in and with a little jiggling and prying and a jack underneath, we got the mounts to all line up. I think the key here is don't hurry, have some help and make sure the beer is cold when you're finished.
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By paul2748 - 8 Years Ago
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Thi is the ultimate in pivot for pulling engines in my opinion. 1,000 times better than the one with chains shown above. Mac's Pivot Plate http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com
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