IS THE "SNEAKY PETE" SEAL TOOL ANY GOOD?


http://forums.y-blocksforever.com/Topic106586.aspx 		Print Topic | Close Window

By alanfreeman - 11 Years Ago
Has anyone had positive results in using the "Sneaky Pete" seal tool?    I have a real bad leak of the rear main seal of my 256 and I really don't want to pull the engine to fix it.  Alan S. Freeman
By gekko13 - 11 Years Ago
I used one of those tools years ago - still have it in my tool box.  It was effective for removing the old seal.  If you are going with a newer style neoprene type replacement, go for it.  Some have not had good results but it can be done in car.  Take your time and be ultra clean, you should be OK.
By miker - 11 Years Ago
I'd really like to know how it works if you try it. I've got one of the early "orange" seals in my 312 block in my roadster, and it's not been good. But I really don't want to pull the motor, even with the oil under the car. Any other advise appreciated.
By Daniel Jessup - 11 Years Ago
I have used the Sneaky Pete tool set by Lisle and I have nothing but good things to say about it!
By NoShortcuts - 11 Years Ago
I posted what follows a year ago, Alan.  Also, last summer I had an acquaintance install three (!) of the neoprene seals in a 312 before finally having success on his fourth try with a rope seal.

NoShortcuts (4/24/2013)
Many years ago, I had the experience of fixing y-block rear seals on two different engines. I say 'fixing' because in both cases the full rope seal was not replaced!

The engines were in vehicles. The oil pan was dropped (after disconnecting the oil pick-up tube to the oil pump), and the rear seal retainer was removed. The crank assembly (main bearing caps, etc.) was NOT disturbed in any way on either repair.

Two steel shims of equal length (just short of 1/4 the diameter of the crank rear seal area) were tapped into the cylinder block upper seal retainer groove between the rope seal and the retainer groove. The shims were pushed in until they were flush with the edge of the upper rope seal end on each side of the upper retainer in the block. These shims served as wedges to go in back of the upper rope seal  to force it against the crank seal surface. The shims were made from commercially available spring steel strips, were approximately .060 or less thick, had a width of approximately 3/16 inch, and the ends that were tapped into the upper rope seal retainer were shaped so as to have somewhat of a bullet shape profile. Also, the lead edge of the nose of the shims, the ends tapped into the upper rope seal groove from each side, the edges were slightly tapered and rounded with emery cloth so as to not catch on the rope seal edges as they were tapped into place. The steel shims were tapped until flush with the block mating surface for the removable aluminum lower seal retainer.

The lower rope seal was replaced in the lower removable aluminum seal retainer per standard repair manual procedure and reinstalled per the same repair manual. After cleaning the oil pan, servicing the oil pan bolt holes, replacing the pan gasket, and reinstalling the oil pan and reconnecting the oil pump pick-up tube you'll be done except for adding engine oil.

In both cases, rear seal leakage was stopped. The rear seal repair was immediately successful and final for the customer.

I'm told that farm equipment suppliers had this type of rope seal replacement 'kit' available for use on farm tractors at least back in the '60s.  The first of the two y-block rear seal repairs I did was done with one of these farm supply provided 'rear seal repair shim kits'.  The second rear seal repair I did was accomplished by making and using the shims I've described.

Hope this helps.
By Talkwrench - 11 Years Ago
I didn't have good success.. ended up using a fast screw or self tapper with a bit of wire wrapped around the head screwed it into the old rope seal and pulled down on the wire [think I may have got the idea from Mark?] you cant replace the seal on your own you have to have someone turning the crank as you remove [bits of ] the seal, also replacing it.  Read Teds info sheet well.  Its next to impossible to offset the seal to cap if your under the car..  Don't be disappointed if you still have a leak when finished.. Its just Y block sweat. 
By 2721955meteor - 11 Years Ago
I have had good luck with sneaky pete,tho  my aproach was to loosen all the maincaps,when top replaced tichtened all the mains except rear,put asmallchunk ofcardboard under the rear main between the shell and crank,snuget the bolts,trimed the seal,removed the cardboard and tightend the mains. inst lower retainer and side seals,depending on side seals, that can be a leak source,i prefer the rubber 1s with the nails that expand the seal,also put a bit of silcone on retaiertop .have had good results,except for the oil driping on my face.