This has the potential of being a controversial topic.

In the performance applications, I go out of my way to use blocks and cylinder heads that do not have the ‘steam’ holes. These additional holes just provide another opportunity for a head gasket failure. To date, I’ve had no issues with any Y blocks or cylinder heads that do not have steam holes as long as the coolant level is always kept full. And I’ve experienced absolutely no differences in engine temperatures with or without the steam holes as the engines run at the thermostat rated temperature in either case. If the coolant level drops significantly, then the steam holes will invariably have some benefit and can potentially delay any ‘cracking’ issues that may surface as a result.

Even the C2 blocks come with and without the steam holes so Ford was not consistent in their thought process in this regard unless it goes back to the application of the engine whether it was being installed in a car or truck. The ’60-’62 cars had a low profile radiator which could have compounded cooling issues if the coolant was only marginally lower than where it needed to be.

            scrub has the "steam" holes and a lot of them seem

            to have problems... My 2cnts   Bill

This was along the lines of my thinking also, given what Ted said.  Maybe it isnt any big deal.  Performance level is mild with 9 to 1 comression.  But if they arent going to be used, they sure are close to the cylinder wall.

Unless you could fill the steam holes with a steel insert, there wouldn’t be a strength advantage to doing otherwise.  And ideally plugging the holes with a steel insert would need to be done before deck milling.  I’d recommend just leaving the holes as is in lieu of just filling them up with sealer or epoxy.  The holes in the gasket are more of a problem than the hole in the block as far as gasket failure goes.  The holes in the block and heads on the other hand are just an opportunity for a crack to start out from.

Forgive me for beating this dead horse, Ted.
It is unnerving to find instructions in my quality Fel Pro full gasket set, to drill tiny "steam" holes in my block and heads, especially if they aren't needed.  I will take your advice and NOT drill them.  My block has lasted all these years without a hitch (hole-less), and I trust your experience and skills much more than Fel Pro's.

I am very glad I found this thread, because at this time in my build, NOW is the time to make this decision.  Truthfully, I damn-near followed Fel Pro's instructions to drill all eight holes.  - Dave

First of all, I'm not building a race engine to go in a two ton Galaxie.  Is it an early engine?  They came out in '54, mine is a '59, and I believe trucks still used the 292 in '62.  Mine is in the middle of Ford's production run which means, for five years before mine, Ford didn't need extra holes but now they do.

Ok, so what to believe?  The guys with the most experience, practicing their talents and skills.  If Ted says, "No need for holes," then that's good enough for my 292.

The holes will still remain in the Fel-Pro head gaskets, but I won't drill my iron.

Dave Dare

Dave.  Thanks for the reinforcement on the sizing of the ‘steam holes’ not contributing heavily to actual cooling.  That mirrors my sentiments.  I’ve actually had to downsize the intermediate cooling holes in the decks on the small block Fords in which to decrease overall heating temperatures or prevent overheating in certain instances.

For all.  What must be remembered is that the coolant for the Y circulates into the block and to the rear of the engine at which point it then enters the head and comes forward again to enter the intake manifold and then back to the radiator.  Any coolant holes placed in the block deck and heads prior to the rear of the engine circumvents the coolant reaching the rear of the block and in turn permits the rear of the engine and heads to run warmer.  It’s a fine balance to equalize the temperatures throughout the block and heads without abnormally large variances in coolant temperatures being present throughout.

Bill.  In rereading this post from its beginning, I noticed you did not get an answer to what was a pertinent question.  The simple answer is that the 400 scrub utilizes siamese cylinder walls which essentially prevents air from from being relieved between the lower sides of the cylinders and hence the need for ‘steam’ holes.  These holes allow pockets of air to be vented out and instead allows coolant to fill those voids.  But as you mention, there are many documented problems with these particular blocks in regards to cracks fanning out from the steam holes in the decks.  But in this case, the steam holes and the resultant cracks are obviously a deterent to the larger problem of hot pockets that would exist otherwise.

Steam hole is probably a misnomer. Additional cooling hole would be more accurate. The adjacent exhaust valves/ports put additional heat in this area. The holes are meant to supply additional cooling water from the block to this area.

Regarding the size, in most of the heads I pull off that have them the holes are plugged with crude, so they probably didn't do much. In theory they are probably a good idea but in practice they might not have helped much.

I don't think the -113 heads are any more prone to cracking than ECZ-G or -471 heads. I find all these about 30% cracked. ECZ-C heads crack between the center exhaust springs, under the valve cover but this is not as common. ECL heads crack between the intake and exhaust seats.

I think that stuck heat risers in the exhaust caused as many cracked heads as anything. The 57 later heads always crack in the exhaust seat connecting to the crossover passage first. If they're not cracked there, they probably aren't cracked anywhere.

I have never seen a crack extending from one of the steam holes either in a block or a head. BUT, I have no testing to prove that they helped or hurt head gaskets or cooling.

My guess is that the boiling and overheating takes place primarly when the engine is shut down hot and water circulation is only thermo syphon.  Then the holes would pass water to the area between the ex valves where the heat would build up quickly, cooling that area. 

BTW Ted mentions another interesting Y design feature that has a little bit of unintended concequences.  Since the the temp probe is located in the back of the head near where a large part of the water flow from the rad comes up from the block,  the water exiting the head is likely to be some what hotter. 

I don't know if it helped or not but I have a magazine picture of Doane Spenser's T bird motor that has beautiful water manifolds the take water from the back and front of the heads.

Rono.

Rono, yes the Best gaskets do have the steam holes in them. Must say i,ve allways drilled my engines and never had any problems with the steam holes. best regards bill.

I suspect the abscence of changing antifreeze on this '64 is the reason for the plug.  The block is like new except for a mess within the coolant passages.  It looks like the antifreeze was never changed after rebuild, except for when the radiator was replaced.  Even then the owner probably only drained the radiator.  Rebuild was done in 1994, and engine had 11,000 miles over the next 10 years.  Then it sat idle for 4 or 5 years.